On today’s stretch of my hike along the south coast of Africa I encountered some of the most spectacular views as well as a display of the local flora at its finest. In fact the flora is part of the indigenous kingdom called “Fynbos” meaning fine but also, perhaps more accurately “delicate bush”. The plant life here is unassuming until you go up close. Then you see how special it is. Perhaps the climate creates these small, sparse and delicate plants that act as ground cover. Other than that there are very few actual trees.
So by going up close I was able to see the miniature flowers on display, something one might otherwise pass by without noticing. I’m no expert in botany and am personally more interested in the wide open horizons and vast open expanse on this remote and desolate shoreline. But compared to the hard rock and endless sea and sky, the small dots of bright color that speckled the rocky surface like flecks of paint from an artist’s brush really intrigued me.
They add a detail of color that seems to stand out despite its miniature stature. These ground cover plants certainly keep a low profile but they know how to attract the eye and presumably the insects when necessary. And there are so many differing species that what at first looked like quite a bland setting, turned out to be rich in diversity, if you just take the extra effort to go closer and inspect all the little dwarf-like shrubs.
I was able to follow a bit of a rocky trail right up on top of the cliff edge today, from where I could overlook the vast expanse of Indian Ocean way below me. This part of the South African coastline in called the “Eden” Municipality, presumably because it has the appearance of a garden where everything blossoms beautifully. It appears dry initially but there are occasional streams that feed the landscape before running to the ocean.
The view from way up high on the cliff top is truly spectacular, with inviting pools way down below where one can swim in safety without the risk of being swept against the rocks. Generally the sea here is quite rough and there is no place to actually enter the open ocean without some risk. So the rock pools are just perfect for a swim. The more popular sandy tourist beaches are not too far away for those who love surfing or swimming in the actual waves. However, on my particular stretch of hike today, it’s rugged rocks and still pools – if you can access them.
The climb down is only for those who are fit and healthy. Otherwise the steep drop to the shore below makes it inaccessible. I did however manage to find a little path down to the shoreline, so it was all available to me today. Fortunately I have acquired the footing of a mountain goat with all my hiking along these steep cliffs on the south coast of Africa, so I don’t even need a path sometimes.
With a practiced eye, I can make out a possible route down to the shoreline just by studying the terrain and rocky surface of the sloping cliffs as they drop off down to the shore way below. I just make my own path if necessary, without being too careless of course. I’m not as young as most of you intrepid travelers, so I need to play it safe, but I have no fear of heights and am really at home on these steep cliffs and rocky terrain.
The fact that there is very little actual soil amongst all this rock does not seem to bother the indigenous plant life. They have the ability to take root in and amongst the most rocky settings. This tenacity and tough endurance appears to be a characteristic of life along these remote and stark African shores, way down south. I’m sure there are much more lush regions of the planet, but there is something awe inspiring about the landscape here, despite its desolate appearance.
The climate is just so mild and appealing that it’s actually quite a gentle place, if a little dry. And even the ocean in fairly warm, around 20 degrees Celsius on average. And with so much vast open space to explore, I have less urgency to get on a plane to find some other horizon somewhere distant. I already have a feast for the eyes right here, with all the horizon I can absorb on this massive continent and shoreline way down at 34 degrees south latitude. If you ever get the chance then feel free to come check it out for yourself. You will find the place really easy to adapt to and difficult to leave.