If you love water sports as much as I do then you will really enjoy today’s outing up the Keurbooms river on the south Cape coast of Africa, in a region called the Garden Route. This is the prime tourist hotspot along the southern African coastline, visited by locals and international holiday makers throughout the year.
I was really in my element with this recent kayaking exploration up the river, starting all the way at the Keurbooms lagoon, which is next to the beach of the same name. This is in the town of Plettenebrg Bay, which hugs the African shoreline in this region where the two rivers meet.
The Bitou and Keurbooms rivers both flow into the lagoon which then flows out to sea. From the lagoon I was able to easily launch my kayak and paddle upstream. My route took me under the main highway that stretches all along this coastline, called the N2. If you prefer, then you can also simply hire a canoe or kayak at the boat club on the N2 highway for a small daily fee and paddle from there, thus avoiding the long route from the lagoon.
I had plenty of time so I decided to take the longer route and enjoy the outing even more. There is little chance of falling in, since the kayaks are sizeable and stable. I recommend wearing some swimming shorts and a waterproof long sleeve shirt. In that way any splashes won’t bother you and you will also protect your skin from the strong UV rays and sunlight, which can burn if you’re not careful.
The ideal way to do this canoe trip upstream is to wait for the ocean tide to be approaching high tide, with the tide coming in. The sea tide flows into the lagoon quite strongly and then also continues to push up river. This tidal push makes paddling up stream really easy, as you harness the flow and momentum of the water.
Then you can catch the tide as it flows out again on your return trip. Usually the experience is fine either way. The only challenge might be if the wind comes up unexpectedly. Then it really makes paddling challenging – trying to push against the strong wind that might be pumping up the narrow ravine. I’ve done it before and it really tested my stamina.
Once you paddle under the N2 highway and leave the coastline behind, the river enters a really narrow ravine with steep sides comprising of densely cover cliffs. It is impossible to access this area by land or path or any way other than the river itself, so you really get the feeling of being absorbed in indigenous jungle.
Instantly the coast is left behind, as well as the road, and you are swallowed by the ravine and flanked by the steep cliffs for several kilometers up stream. The water is dark and the sun only touches this valley-like space for a few hours in the middle of the day. I makes for an epic still and silent kayaking experience with just you and the river.
It’s impossible to see the bottom or through the water, since it’s so dark, so I have no idea how deep the river itself is. It is a still and deep mystery upon which you can float into a timeless land with no sign of civilization or human influence. Here and there along the river you can stop at occasional little sand banks that hug the solid rock cliffs. And on some banks there are actually little picnic spots set up where the terrain permits, ever few kilometers. So it is possible to take a picnic meal with you and stop on the and banks to have a lunch break.
I have not actually paddled all the way to the limit of the route up stream yet, so I will need to return some time to go further. The river just keeps meandering on and on, so you can paddle all day it seems. You can organise your outing around the weather and tidal conditions on the day, and make a real adventure of it.
I do hope that you get a chance to visit this awesome region called the Garden Route on the southernmost shores of Africa and to go paddling up the Keurbooms river. If you’re in the region then I highly recommend this kayaking experience for your itinerary. The place feels like it could be anywhere in the world, without the bugs, tropical heat or any other harsh conditions to worry about. It’s a winning combination.
(photos my own)