I hate the dreadful humid summer in Japan, but when my friend Astrid brought up the idea of Shimanami Kaido, I was thrilled.
It's a cyclist's paradise, they say. But I'm nowhere close to a cyclist, I just know how to ride a bicycle, lol. The cycling route takes one to cross multiple bridges and islands from Ehime to Hiroshima prefectures. Knowing there are multiple routes depending on intensity, was a comfort.
Astrid was on a month-long break from work. The timing could not be any more perfect. We immediately arranged for bullet train tickets and headed for Ehime to start off our 3day-2night cycling adventure.
Here's a glimpse of what I stuffed myself with - sushi!
We got off at Fukayama, and took 1-hr bus ride to Imabari, where we stayed for the night. There was not much going on in that quiet town, but there was always good food. Early next day we headed to the station and rented the bicycles we would be riding on our adventurous journey. We took the basic 7-gear bicycles, used my own helmet, gloves, set everything up including my mindset (lol).
The first bridge, Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge, was the first, and yet the longest bridge we had to cross. It was about 9am, but I got delirious and started questioning myself why I signed up to that torture lol. The ascent was intense, but when we were at the top, the strait was covered in mist, it was beautiful.
Halfway on the bridge, was an elevator which led us down to Uma Island. We took extra time to see a small lighthouse and played a bit at the beach.
The next 2 hours cycling through Oshima island were mechanical; the scorching heat of the sun made us more tired, having eaten nothing since morning, we easily ran out of energy. The mixed nuts made us cross Hakata-Oshima Bridge reach roadside station park on the other side, for a long lunch and salted caramel soft ice cream break. I had to eat two.
After that huge "stamina" rice bowl, we shopped for souvenirs and arrange for delivery to Tokyo. That was very convenient, especially for cyclists who are packing light, but wanted to take the local delicacies to their hometowns. I was one of them. Ehime is known for salt and citrus, and I did not have an excuse not to send some for my husband who's gaming alone at home in Tokyo. :)
When the sun was lower, we decided to continue cycling and cross another bridge towards where we would stay for the night, in Omishima Island.
We did not book for an accommodation ahead, we decided to be spontaneous and see where we get tired, then book. Astrid found a new hostel with decent bunk beds for about 6000円, and I'm telling you it was a jackpot.
That night we rewarded ourselves with onsen (hot spring) and a hearty dinner. And oh, the sunset was wonderful by the way.
The next day we set off to Rabbit Island (Okunoshima) where I wrote a separate entry here. We dawdled in that island swarming with cute creatures, not knowing the very loooooong cycling time ahead.
Tatara Bridge was my favorite. We tried clapping near the pillars, and to our surprise, it roared back!
Ikuchi Island held a lot of gems, it was my favorite place. Apart from the tons of lemon farms we passed by, it has traditional neighborhoods and local stalls. Of course I had to eat my daily soft ice cream dose. There was also this famous croquette stall in Setoda manned by an 80-year old lady who was very sweet.
At the tourist center, I saw some dolls inspired by real people who have died, as a way of remembering them when they were alive.
As if we were not already out of time, we visited the Hill of Hope, where it's decorated by huge Italian marbles.
At the bottom was a temple, with a cave full of Buddha statues. It was comforting to get into a chilly cave after getting torched by the afternoon sun.
To be honest, I dont know how we crossed Ikushima and reached Mukaishima islands. But I remembered crossing underneath this bridge, and it was trippy, lol.
We were riding like crazy, I could not feel my legs anymore. But then we had to hurry because firstly, we still had to catch a train towards Fukayama and take the bullet train back to Tokyo. Second, we were starving, and we could only eat when we reach the train station and make sure we could make it. Third, we wanted to take shower, you can imagine how stinky and sweaty we were.
We took the ferry to cross to Imabari, where we returned the rental bicycles. Astrid rescheduled our train an hour later, so we could freshen up at a coin shower, and shopped for dinner and snacks to munch in the train.
Then my hip started to pinch. We cycled for more than 60km that day, naturally my untrained old body would complain. 😃
If I could do it again, I would. Except that I would pack my own bicycle (mine is definitely much better than the rental ones). I would also stay much longer in Ikuchi; I feel like I would enjoy much more if we stayed a night there.
Overall it was a wonderful trip, marveling at the sea while pedaling on those paved roads passing by interesting local fish and lemon farm villages.