Hiking Mallorca: Into the fog of the bridle path

Olive groves, hidden gorges, panoramic views and the most beautiful mountain villages of the island: a charming long-distance hiking trail leads away from mass tourism across Mallorca's wild Tramuntana mountains. We want to hike the Tramuntana mountains complete - a hard way, dry and beautiful.

The bridle way of the Tramuntana

In Spring, before the sun really burns over Mallorca is the best time to discover the island, which is known for beaches, discos and alcohol abuse. The best way to do that is with hiking boots firmly laced. Follow me all the way to the other side of a well known and complete unknown isle. (Please read chapter one here, chapter two here)

Lone pine

Valldemossa, not for nothing the most visited village on the island, is located right before the possibly the most beautiful stretch of the hiking trail GR 221, which crowned Mallorca's Tramuntana mountains. Today it runs first on a historic bridle path, through forest and over hill and dale, not too high, but already remarkable by Mediterranean standards.

Down there is the sea

Slowly it goes uphill to the 938 meter high Puig Gros, which is for the small island almost something like the Himalayas. For us even more, because we climb and stumble uphill. The horses of Archduke Ludwig Salvator are said to have once walked along here, probably very not-giddy animals.

A Habsburger build the path

One thing is certain: The bridle path, which the Habsburg had built in the 19th century north of Valldemossa during his stay in Mallorca, is today a popular route for hikers who are free from giddiness. Across the plateaus of the Tramuntana, hikers on those from the archduke's former estates have a breathtaking view of the entire island, while the mountain wind whistles around their ears.

Ludwig the Habsburger

It is precisely this view that attracts hikers all year round to the so-called "Cami de S'Arxiduc", to which there are also signs here. Al, you can walk is made by the nobleman from Vienna. Ludwig Salvator, Archduke of Habsburg and Lorraine, had settled in Mallorca in the 19th century. His bridle path around Valldemossa is considered one of the most beautiful trails of the island.

Into the fog

Mallorcas cover star

From Ludwig, in Mallorca only called Salvador, also comes the country castle Son Marroig on the coast between Valldemossa and Deià with a small marble temple, which has gained fame as the cover photo on Mallorca travel guides. Here the dreamprince was visited several times by his relative Empress Elisabeth ("Sissi").

Down the way

Along the fenced path, after about 30 minutes of walking, you reach the "Font de na Rupit", the source of the robin, at this point there is a small ruin. The wide dirt road continues towards the "Refugi des Cairats" until you reach the Finca pública, an open house for a stay over night.

A peaceful bay on the way

There, not only the "Cami de s'Arxiduc" is signposted, but also the former lime kilns are explained.The installations can be visited off the path. Dark holes in the green, dark holes in die grey granite. Half an hour of steep ascent follows, which brings sweat to everyone's brow. At the "Font des Polls" with its seats you can take a breather - if the weather is good.

Look to the sea

Fog instead of sun

We have the very best: no sun. But instead, slowly rising fantastic fog, which makes a puzzle landscape out of the mountain panorama. In the middle of it all there is suddenly a hut. This is the Refugi Son Moragues, which in previous centuries served as accommodation for snow collectors, the "nevaters" as they are called in Mallorcan.

What a kind of view

A few meters from the refuge are the remains of the snow houses, where for centuries the white precipitation was collected. During the winter it became a solid mass of ice, the snow collectors broke out blocks of ice in the warm season and brought them to Palma as soon as possible. The goal of the backbreaking work was, among other things, so that the wealthy population of the island's capital could enjoy cool drinks in the summer.

Fog is all around

From the peak you can see as far as Deià and Port de Sóller. Once you've had your fill, the tour continues north. The descent to Deià is beautiful. The path leads dramatically along steep cliffs until olive grove terraces slowly flatten the terrain. Deià is Mallorca's artists' village. It has always attracted painters, poets and composers.

Hiking up

Quite a few stayed at the hotel "La Residencia". The hostel is worth a visit just for its sculpture garden and some 800 works, mostly by local artists.

Another bay

Past olive and citrus plantations

The further march to the port of Port de Sóller runs through endless olive tree plantations. In the gnarled, centuries-old trees on the Muleta Peninsula, you can see goblins, faces and various animals.

View to Söller

At the Cap Gros lighthouse, built in 1842, the path turns abruptly to the right and leads to the beautiful natural harbor of Sóller. There, at last, the longed-for jump into the Mediterranean beckons, which until now was only possible at the beginning before the start of the Trans-Tramuntana, which is the largest hike possible in Mallorca.

A bay to swin in

Because the mighty Serra de Tramuntana on a diagonal from Andratx to Pollenca is the longest hiking trail here. We feel it that evening when we finally get to stretch and rest our feet. This damn little island. She's so big when you have to conquer it in your boots.