The very south of Montenegro, the rocky coast, the very salty sea, my famous sentence when I was a little girl watching the magical sunsets "the Sun went to the sea to bathe", then the friends I met there, we had our boat, harpoon, we took out sea urchins, mussels, octopuses, that's where I learned to swim, to dive, that's where I fell in love, the place where I spent a crazy and unforgettable summer with my best friends. I must mention that in one period it was not a happy time, the nineties were a time of hyperinflation and collective depression when the salary was worth literally 2 eggs. But even though those were summers without any luxuries, it is interesting how there is always a path to a moment of happiness and a path to beautiful and unforgettable moments.
After more than twenty years, I wanted to go to that part of Montenegro with my family. I didn't have to convince them much. We chose Dobre Vode. The southern coast of Montenegro does not have the charm of Boka Kotorska in terms of architecture, but the color and quality of the sea are incomparably more beautiful. This part was populated by private, mostly modest cottages, so we all knew each other. There was no mass tourism then. However, even though I heard that the whole area has changed a lot, re-encountering this place surprised me. Capital has done its job and hotels, swimming pools, and restaurants have sprung up, I didn't expect such a change. Pools and luxurious private villas have even been built on the rocks right next to the coast.
In short, Dobre Vode (good waters), also called Veliki Pesak (big sand), although the beach is made of fine gravel, is a bay south of Bar. In this part of Montenegro, which is known for its rocky bays, and small rocky and pebble beaches is one of the most beautiful and largest.
We went off-season, so we avoided a big crowd that can spoil the impression. The promenade along the sea is also beautiful, especially in the evening. It's teeming with people.
Along the promenade, there are many restaurants, with local food and seafood. As everywhere, while you are on the beach you can buy croissants,donuts, pizza, pancakes, cotton candy, and ice cream. The larger part of the beach is arranged, with sunbeds and umbrellas, while the smaller part is left for your umbrella and towel.
Accommodation per night can be found from several tens to several thousand euros.
What I love most in this part of Montenegro is the fantastic smell and salinity of the sea, as well as the magical sunsets.
The nature of the deep blue Adriatic Sea in this part is also interesting. The salinity is high, and the water is warm, but it can also be very cold due to currents and underground sources. If there is a cold wave, you literally cannot enter the water, but on the other hand, it is very pleasant when the water is warm. The sea can bring seaweed, and dirt, because unfortunately, Montenegro does not have a regulated sewage system, but when everything is right the sea is more than ideal. Since it is an open sea, the waves can be huge, which is also interesting for children, but they can also be very dangerous.
Above Dobre Vode there are peaks up to almost 1600 meters above sea level, so the climate is fantastic and unique, and the nights can be cool. Because of this meeting of sea and mountain climate, this place is also called an "air spa". We had two days of cold weather, lead ice sea, and heavy clouds, but it didn't bother us. The proximity of the sea is relaxing and pleasant in any case.
We always find something interesting to do.
I also had to go to Utjeha, which is a place about 5 kilometers south of Dobri Vode, because I have the best memories there. More precisely, we went to Mala plaza (a small beach). It's strange that I never knew, and I don't even know now, what that bay is called, but that's what we call it. I learned to swim here when I was five years old.
The beach was very wild, and the bottom was full of sea urchins, except for one clean part where we went into the depths. It's surrounded by rocks and green Mediterranean vegetation. I remember that we often picked wild blackberries and fresh sage there.
I can't describe the feeling when I came to Mala Plaža again after twenty years. Everything has changed. There is a restaurant by the pool right on the shore. Luscious villas with swimming pools overlooking the sea have sprung up around the beach along the rocky coast. I have to say that I was a little disappointed because the pure wild nature was completely unplanned and destroyed by modern construction. It used to be a beach for only us locals, but now there are also foreign tourists. Maybe I'm a little selfish when I talk about this place. Anyway, the meeting with Mala Plaža was certainly very emotional. I couldn't push away the memories, but neither could the tears.
These ten days of rest had a special, especially emotional, value for me. I remembered stories, events, people I never met again, and laughter. I certainly cannot speak objectively about this place, which is certainly more beautiful than it was, but my memories and the time that passed were still the most beautiful for me, so I was a little disappointed that it had changed so much. However, some things can never change, the sea, magical sunsets, and the view of the mountains that surround it, as well as all those wonderful memories that I will carry in my heart forever.
I hope I managed to convey to you the charms of this part of wild and wonderful Montenegro.
Until the next time,
Your Snow White