Hello friends. I wanted to share with you my memories from our trip to Aveiro. When you travel to Portugal you’ll likely want to go from Lisbon to Porto. If you’re traveling by car, you’ll pass through a small town called Aveiro. Don’t skip this town. Stop by for a few hours because it’s quite interesting. Today I want to talk about what we saw during our visit to this town.
One of the most important landmarks of Aveiro and the thing that fascinates tourists the most, is the canal system. For this reason it is sometimes called the "Venice of Portugal." There are gondolas here as well, but they are called moliceiro. These boats were used to collect local seaweed that was previously used as fertilizer. These boats have very low sides but are quite wide and longer than Venetian gondolas. Currently the sides are raised a bit to keep tourists from falling out. And these boats are often painted in very vibrant colors with a humorous style, adding a unique charm to them.
There aren’t as many canals here as in Venice, so I’d like to talk to you not only about the canals but also about other interesting tourist spots. If you’re interested in architecture, three modern-style buildings along the canal will catch your eye. They look quite beautiful, although there have been some changes inside. One houses a supermarket, the one in the middle is a tourism center and the one on the left is a city museum. We didn’t have time to go inside, but we were certainly impressed by the exterior beauty of the buildings.
At the central bridge there are four statues. Unlike the large figures on other bridges, these statues are dedicated to ordinary people. Two figures represent salt workers. One is a woman carrying a basket on her head to transport salt. The other two figures represent festive times: one is a man lighting lamps at a festival and the other is a woman in festive clothes holding flowers. Salt extraction is a significant activity in this town, so we didn’t forget to buy some salt. If you get a chance to visit, I recommend it.
In our search for a more special gift, we were drawn to a sweet called "ovos moles". This is a creamy dessert made from egg yolk and wrapped in almond paper. It can come in different shapes, such as nuts, fish or other forms.
Princess Juana, who lived here in the 15th century, is also an important part of this town. As the daughter of King Alfonso she rejected a royal career and retreated to a monastery. The monastery is located here and she engaged in various charitable works. She was canonized in the 17th century and is buried here.
Here you can see a highly ornate ceramic tomb. This is a perfect example of a Portuguese story: integrating modern architectural elements into historical structures, even into cultural heritage. This is very clearly seen here. Alongside religious artworks, there are also modern sections. Various techniques and modern painting styles are present here, with ceramic panels particularly standing out.
The monastery and church are very ornate, featuring an intense Baroque style. You will also find the monument of Princess Juana here, who was canonized. To the right there is a cathedral, but we didn’t go inside. We were content to admire it from the outside.
There is also modern architecture here. For example, the Maritime Museum located in Ílhavo, a small town neighboring Aveiro. Since it is located by the ocean, it provides information about fishing. What impressed me the most was the modern section added to the museum in 2012. This was done by the Portuguese RX architecture firm and the building is covered in black metal scales. It looks graphical and interesting.
Ceramics are a very traditional element for this region. Ílhavo is one of the ceramic production centers in Portugal. Many factories producing ceramic tiles are located here. And Vista Alegre, the oldest and most famous porcelain factory in Portugal, is also found here. This factory was established in 1824 by a trader who had a monopoly on tobacco and soap trade and invested his earnings in porcelain production. The old kilns are still standing and you can go inside to see how they worked. Both porcelain and glass items were produced here. Glass products are still available. The design development process is quite interesting because it parallels the architectural and artistic styles of the period. For example, the late 19th century is characterized by modernism and eastern motifs, while the early 20th century features Art Deco and Cubism. Following this development process is truly fascinating.
Porcelain and ceramic sculptures are dedicated to various events or people. International figures are also represented. For example, a plate made with the coat of arms of Catherine the Great and another with the coat of arms of Princess Grace of Monaco can be found here. Upstairs there is a hand-painting workshop. Here hand-painted plates and figures are still being produced. There are many animals, plants and humorous characters. Various ceramic products are sold in the store here.
Later we decided to end our trip traditionally with gastronomic delights. Let me show you one of the best restaurants in Aveiro. I’ve been to this restaurant a few times before and have always been very pleased. Interestingly the restaurant is located in old salt warehouses. This can also be considered an example of architectural transformation. From the outside it may look like an old building, but inside, there is a pleasant restaurant atmosphere.
The location of the restaurant is also very nice. You can eat while moliceiro boats float on the canal. However the restaurant mainly stands out for its food. Traditional Aveiro flavors are presented with a modern twist. First I really like their oysters. Aveiro's oysters are very delicious and are served with a mousse made from local seaweed.
The next dish I enjoyed is codfish. Here a modern interpretation of the typical codfish dish "abras" is served. Instead of a large fillet, it comes in small pieces, served with poached egg, onion puree and topped with codfish shavings. When you mix everything together, it becomes a very tasty experience. The standout dessert is "ovos moles" which I mentioned earlier. This dessert is presented in a deconstructed way. The cream made from egg yolk, almond flour, almond cream and even almond soufflé are served separately. This also provides a very nice and delicious experience.
We paid 57 Euros per person for lunch. If you happen to visit Aveiro, I highly recommend making a reservation at this restaurant. I hope you enjoyed my post. If you find yourself in this Portuguese town, be sure to stop by for at least a few hours.
