Today I would like to take you on a little tour to Aizu-Wakamatsu (also known as simply Aizu), which is located in the western part of Fukushima Prefecture, and thus in the northern part of the main island of Honshu.
Actually, it is not so far from my place, by car about 90 minutes, the train takes longer, about 2 1/2 to 3 hours. As we are always going by car we have two choice, the highway or the road winding along Aga-river, which is way more scenic and cozy. It takes a little longer, but the views I was able to enjoy there are definitely worth going a little slower. Going through this mountain range towards Aizu is a wonderful trip of its own, full of beautiful nature like mountains and rivers and it usually is quite a cheerful drive.
Aizu is located in a large basin and is surrounded by many mountains of the low mountain range category. It is famous for the castle Tsuruga-jo there and was one of the last bases of the Tokugawa shogunate during the Boshin wars at the end of the Edo period. After the emperor's troops and their supporters gained power again, the troops of the already abdicated shogun retreated to Aizu, as they could traditionally expect great support in this area. Eventually however, they were defeated after some hard battles and large parts of the city were razed to the ground.
Aizu has retained a bit of a samurai atmosphere even until today, which is due to the rebuilt and recently renovated castle, but also to the various former samurai residences, some of which can be visited. Sure the city tries to uphold the samurai heritage and yes, also to exploit this atmosphere a little bit. Well, people have to live on something. And since it seems to be appreciated, I would say: Why not!
I have been in Aizu several times, and I was able to discover some new places at every visit. There some interesting Sake brewerie to see and even the wider area around Aizu has quite some attractions. So far I was here in spring and late summer, but I think Aizu is worth a visit at any time of the year.
The castle in Aizu, Tsuruga-jo is a real gem and, of course, you have a pretty and fabulous view of the city and the nearby mountains from the very top. As I said the original castle was razed to the ground when the city was attacked and conquered by the imperial troops at at the beginning of the Meiji restauration, but then rebuild in the middle of last century. And just a couple of years ago the whole castle was newly renovated and is now shining in a new glory.
My first trip to Aizu was during the cherry blossom season, and we witnessed a Mikoshi, a parade in which a portable shrine is transported through town, with everyone around frenetically cheering it on. In the hot summer, this seems like an insane amount of work, especially when people have had a good drink of the local firewater before starting the frenzy.
And look at all the wonderful cherry blossoms! What a perfect timing it was to be there!
The twisting Sazaedo Pagoda, and a view from the inside. To be honest, it is not necessarily the biggest attraction but the surrounding forest also immerses this ensenble in an interesting atmosphere and somehow invited me to have a look inside.
As mentioned before, you can visit various samurai residences in Aizu, which are often used for movies from the good old days. But you get a great impression of life in those days, which was quite peaceful during the Edo period, but for sure still pretty exhausting. There are various weapons and exhibited armor to see, but the samurai, who were the only Japanese who were allowed to carry swords, had to limit their skills during the time of the Tokugawa Shogunate (Edo) to exercises among their peers.
The most famous samurai residence is Bukeyashiki, which is quite well known from film and television as several series were filmed here.
The master of the house was eventually "invited" to participate in the Battle of Aizu (1868) which was one of the last big battles of the Boshin Wars. When the crushing end of the Aizu occupation was in sight, the female part of the family and retinue had decided in large numbers to commit ritual suicide (seppuku).
Tragedies happened in this part of the world too, and we should by no means glorify the life and work of the samurai. In the real sense, they were also just paid mercenaries who put on a mystical cloak. When the head is cut off, it is all over. There is no need to talk about honor and loyalty.
However I am sure in peace time it was a great place to live. At least for the master of this place, his family and his retainers. And it was also a perfect chance for us to get a glimpse of past and gain a little understanding how things were rolling here a couple of centuries ago.
Aizu is a good place to visit when you make it to Japan. It is not on the main tourist path but also not of the beaten track and at certain places offers a rather authentic look of what Japan used to be. In my head I am spinning another plan of visiting there again, I somehow like to stop at places I had seen before for a second time to take a closer look. I guess I simply enjoy walking on memory lane.
That's why it is so great to make articles like this one, as it brings backs my trips and visits and I can do them again in my mind. And I also need to look at all the photos I have taken, which is definitely a pure refresher.
Thanks a lot for stopping by today and I hope you enjoy my little reports from the land of the rising sun. I still have a lot to discover and I am looking forward to the next adventure.
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