Villefranche-sur-Mer feels Italian, with soft-orange buildings; steep, narrow streets spilling into the sea; and pasta on most menus. Originally a Roman port, Villefranche-sur-Mer was overtaken by fifth-century barbarians. Villagers fled into the hills,where they stayed and farmed their olives. In 1295 the Duke of Provence-like many in coastal Europe-was threatened by the Saracen Turks. He asked the hillside olive farmers to move down to the water and establish a front line against the invaders, thus denying the enemy a base from which to attack Nice. In return for tax-free status, they stopped farming, took up fishing, and established a Ville- (town) franche (without taxes). Since there were many such towns, this one was specifically "Tax-free town on the sea" (sur Mer). In about 1560, the Duke of Savoy built an immense, sprawling citadel in the town (which one can still tour).
