It became painfully obvious to me that if I don't create a post about something right after the fact, then I won't ever do it. It's been three weeks since I've returned from vacation in Tatra mountains, so it is "too late" already, but maybe I'll manage to describe at least a single day...
I've been stationed in village Ciche. As the name suggests ("calm"/"silent"), there was not much traffic. Since it was after the season, there was not too many tourists. The view from my window showed green pastures where flocks of sheep were slowly munching grass transforming it to milk that was later further transformed to cheeses (by visiting local shepherds to buy fresh cheese, you could actually see how it is made). There was a bunch of bull calves grazing right behind wooden fence.
The place is close to thermal spa in Chochołów. Most likely whole area takes its hot water from natural hot springs, as the smell of sulfur implies.
But I digress. It was supposed to be a visit to the valley. Let's go there then.
There are two ways to get to the start of the trail in Kiry from Ciche. First is kind of around, through Witów - flat terrain. Second way leads through Dzianisz and Kościelisko, and you are first pretty much climbing Gubałówka mountain, only to descend right back. The Salamander road that leads down is narrow, somewhat twisty, steep (I'm pretty sure it requires tire chains with first snow) and offers scenic views (but not for the driver!). There are a few places where you can stop to look at the landscape, the road is also packed with restaurants and small hotels on both sides.
View from parking spot at the highest place. There is a road to the left that leads to the top of Gubałówka, a tourist magnet often visited from Zakopane with cable lift.
The mountain lit in the center, supposedly sleeping knight, is Giewont.
Google managed to properly show the way, so there was no problem with reaching destination at the foot of the mountains. Despite being off season, locals were almost jumping in front of the car to lead to their (paid) parking spot.
Saturday was not the best time to visit the place as there were crowds of tourists of all ages, weights, genders and even (dis)abilities. The main trail is very easy, almost flat, wide gravel road surrounded by mountains. Toi tois every five minutes. At the start you can even hire horse driven carriage to get you part of the way. The road actually leads all the way to the mountain refuge below Ornak.
There are couple side trails that branch off from the main road, three of them lead to caves that you can visit. Only Mroźna (Frosty Cave) is lit, for Mylna (False Cave) and Raptawicka Cave you need your own flashlight (preferably wearable). It is worth noting that side trails often become one-way at some point, so you need to plan the hike minding where the exit of the trail is. Also, while main road is easy, side trails are definitely not.
The apparent opening on the side of the mountain is near actual opening - see tiny guy in blue on the right? I'm not sure, but he might be standing at Pawlikowski's Window in Mylna Cave
Main trail leads along the Kościelisko Stream, frequently crossing from one side to the other.
There is one particularly interesting spot on the stream, where water comes out of mountain side.
The main road ends in Ornak refuge, if you are patient and lucky you might even eat something there. But that was literal "walk in the park" so far.
Around 30 minutes away is Smreczyński Pond. The trail leading there starts with steep ascend, then has a bit of flat fragment and ends with even steeper ascend. The trail leads through the forest. There are plenty of mushrooms, but since it is a nature preserve, you can't pick them up.
Some people forget that you can't pick mushrooms and here is the result.
The pond itself is great. Too bad you can't walk around it, but just look at the pictures.
Back down the same way. I've heard that the dying trees are result of insufficient rain in recent years - the trees can't develop roots in shallow soil on the rocks, so they need frequent supply of rain water.
Going back. That day there was first HiveBeeCon in Kraków, but I visited Kraków Gorge with Dragon's Den instead. It branches to the East from main road. The trail starts as two way at first. It is a narrow passage between rocks.
Note mandatory support, so the rocks don't start falling :o)
At some point the trail exits into wide well surrounded by tall rocks.
From this point, starting with a ladder, the trail is one way. Despite that, there was actually a guy walking down the ladder. It turned out his kid(?) dropped some electronic device from above, maybe a phone. Asked how it looks like above, he said merrily "oh, just the ladder and then ten-something meters with chains and it is over". Ouch. I don't have acrophobia, more like I'm "height aware". But I'm here, no way I'm going back.
After climbing the ladder and first set of chains there was a choice. Either use the way outside, with one side open to the abyss, TYVM, or go through the den.
View from the entrance of the den - there was no place to back up to actually take a photo of the entrance itself.
Both alternatives require use of chains. Too bad I had no flashlight, since I didn't plan to visit any cave, but here it would be useful, even if only for couple of meters. Behold, wonders of modern technology! A flashlight from the phone. I had to put it in the pocket, since climbing in general calls for "three points of support" rule, which is also why I have not taken any pictures from inside the cave.
Rather than comfortable place of rest for the dragon, the cave is more like a winding tunnel leading steeply up, a rock-worm burrow. Strange dragon. Perhaps a wyrm. Cold, wet and a bit muddy, with extra metal steps and footholes dug in the rock far too spaced, the climb is pretty demanding - don't take your grandma with you.
Exit from the den.
The rest is just normal trail, albeit narrow, leading down to Pisana Alp (the place where you can ride to with the horse carriage).
Even if you stay on main road and just go forth and back, the sun changing direction paints surrounding mountains differently, so you won't be bored.
Bonus: living tree with moss and ferns growing on it.
