When buying a plane ticket to the next destination, typically you have a good idea of where you are going. Months of planning and research has gone into this decision. You've scoured the internet for hours looking up accommodation, activities, and things you want to see while there. Carefully packing items that will best suit the environment, like boots for hiking or a mosquito net. You may even make time to learn about the history, the culture, or possibly the dangers in the region.
I had done none of the above when I decided to jump ship in Thailand and head to Banda Aceh...
Being unprepared had become a form of art after a few years of traveling. The "like a babe in the woods" approach just seemed to fit my style of wandering. I was a solo kind of guy thus giving little outside influence in my decisions. I guess you could say I acted out of spontaneity? This was especially prevalent when I was in Asia. To "make plans" seemed almost ridiculous as I knew they would never play out as intended and create a false sense of expectation. We all know expectations when traveling (or life for that matter) can lead to disappointment.
I landed in Bangkok the week prior to flying to Indonesia. I had plans to meet with an old friend (lets call her that) and possibly rekindle our friendship (lets call it that). After a few days of being together our memory came back as to why we were apart in the first place.
Heartbroken and hopeless, I wandered the streets one evening. I sat at a small street stall drinking beer, wondering what the hell I was to do now. In that moment of self reflection a bright red neon sign caught my eye, an Air Asia office. I walked in and asked what flights went out the next morning. As the woman worked her way down the list I thought to myself, I'm taking the next one she rattles off. As fate may have it...
That exciting moment stepping into another world came over me immediately. I can recall the first sense that hit, the smell of clove cigars and sweltering heat. I was definitely back in Indonesia. The land of Nasi Goreng and mystical palm forests, however, I had never been to this region so everything was new once again. With no plans as well as nothing holding me back I asked a taxi to take me somewhere with surf and good food.
I vaguely remembered watching the news in 2004, a travesty in Indonesia. It didn't click in my mind until my driver started telling me about how the area was affected by a tsunami. Over 160,000 people had died in the region and rehabilitation was clearly still in progress. This was the first que that I was going to learn from this trip. I had so many questions but wanted to take in the landscape before I started asking.
I ended up at a beautiful beach community on the outskirts of Aceh city, Lhoknga-Lampuuk. A kind soul named Eddy greeted me at the gate of Eddies Homestay. He was a tall, slender guy with a huge smile. His place was set in the jungle with four rooms and a mini fridge full of cold Bintang on the porch. We sat down and started to get to know one another.
The next morning I walked to the beach to get a better idea of the land. Walking through the jungle fringed streets the locals smiled and waved at me. Kids were playing everywhere and cattle grazed on the tall blades of grass along the road. The beach was breathtaking, wide and open as far as you could see. To my amazement there were what seemed to be pine trees lining the sand. Sort of an unrealistic scene when mixed with the crystal blue waters of the Indian Ocean. The best way to describe it is dream like.
It's hard to believe that only a short time ago there was such devastation but the longer you looked at everything you could tell the scars were still fresh. I was able to make a strong bond with Eddie at the homestay. This gave me an opportunity to learn more about the area and the hardships these people endured. Eddie was kind enough to share his story with me, as hard as that was. His home was adjacent to a long cinderblock wall that stretched for what seemed like a kilometer, later he explained this was the remnants of a 18 hole golf course that government officials and the wealthy used for years. When the tsunami hit Banda Aceh the people were left with many issues, one of which was dealing with the human loss emotionally and physically. Nine holes of the golf course were repurposed as mass burial sites and this wall was built around it. Only steps from his dwelling lay more than half of his community. A constant reminder of the fragility of life.
Eddie was lucky enough to be in the mosque after the initial earthquake, praying to god for the chaos to stop. It was gut-wrenching to hear his accounts but if he would not share his story then who would know what these people had to endure. When the wave was nearing shore all those in the mosque went to the roof top. He watched in terror as the water receded, the village rushed to the reef to collect fish stranded by the drawback. It is unimaginable, watching helpless people be taken from you, nothing can be done about it. He kept telling me it was not the worst day of his life, the worst was putting everyone to rest. In the muslim religion they clean the body of the dead, Eddie and his community came together to see that his people were given a proper burial. I find this truly touching, truly human. I still speak with Eddie to this day, a friend for life!
These are the relationships and the lessons I yearn for, in travel, in life period. Nothing makes you realize just how blessed you are like these interactions and friendships.
After taking in the beach and all of its beauty it was time to explore the inland jungles. I found out there was a homestay in a small village outside of Banda Aceh where they rehabilitated injured and poached elephants. I'm a sucker for these animals and the fact that they were not in captivity intrigued me. I rented a scooter and made the 3 hour ride through the country side stopping at some amazing sights along the way.
The interior of Sumatra is magical, the vivid green of the jungle wrapped in the bluest of skies. Everywhere you look there is an abundance of life. It is truly the lungs of the earth...
Unfortunately I was met with the circle of life once again at the sanctuary. An adult elephant was brought to the facility after ingesting poison two days after I arrived. It was terrible seeing this amazing creature in such pain but the doctors and trainers did everything they could to save it. Without suffering she was put down humanely in the most beautiful show of gratitude towards the staff. I had never witnessed an elephant crying and I don't care to ever see it again.
I was truly inspired and happy that I took the time to explore all that Banda Aceh had to offer. I am excited to share part 2 of Sumatra, Bukit Lawang. The motorcycle journey there and the week long hike into the jungle to see wild Orangutan in their natural habitat.
On a side note, I will be going to Yelapa, Mexico this weekend for a close friends wedding and will be documenting the occasion to share with all of you. Please know that if I can not respond to your comments and thank all of you for the support this weekend, I will surly do that as soon as I am able to.
Again, so excited to share more with the Hive community and as always please share your experiences, thoughts, and comments!
Mahalo and have a wicked awesome weekend!