Coming back to Athens for the second time felt surprisingly different. The first time, I was on a mission to see it all — ruins, hills, views, museums, neighborhoods. But this time, traveling with my partner’s family, the trip took on a slower, more intimate rhythm. It wasn’t about checking off sights, but more about spending time together, walking familiar streets, and sharing my favorite spots from the last visit. And even though I thought I had “seen it all” — surprise! We stumbled upon a new gem I hadn’t explored before. It made me feel like I truly know Athens now, or at least well enough to give real advice to anyone visiting.
If you want to see more photos of Athens, come check my previous post about Greece!
Athens is quite big, but not overwhelming. In my opinion, 4 to 5 days is the sweet spot. It gives you time to explore the essential sights without getting burnt out. Any more than that, unless you plan to visit nearby islands or spend a lot of time relaxing, might be too much. But of course, the charm of Athens lies in the mix of ancient ruins and chaotic modern energy, so letting yourself get a bit lost isn’t a bad idea either.
This time we stayed in an absolutely beautiful place, with views straight from our bedroom window to the illuminated Lycabettus Hill in the evening — magical! We were in the Exarchia district, known for its political activism, bohemian vibe, and yes, a bit of a reputation. You’ll often see police patrolling the area, sometimes with shields and full riot gear. It can feel surreal, almost theatrical, but it stems from a long history of student protests and anarchist movements, especially around Strefi Hill. That said, both times I visited the area, including late nights at Strefi, I never once felt unsafe. In fact, Strefi Hill became our peaceful little spot for evening city views, away from crowds. Strefi Hill is a must-visit if you’re staying nearby — it’s the perfect hidden spot for peaceful evening views over Athens without the crowds.
This was actual view from our bedroom. 😍 The best one I've had so far.
If it’s your first time in Athens, there are the classic must-sees. The Acropolis tops the list, of course. But here’s an honest take — if you’re short on time, skip it. It’s crowded, it’s 30 euros per person, and there are queues. If you do have time, it’s worth doing at least once in your life.
This time we didn’t go again — instead, we explored a new (new to us) hill next to it: Filopappou Hill (Lofos Filopappou).
This place was a highlight! It’s massive, less crowded, full of ruins like the Prison of Socrates, panoramic views, and actual wild turtles! We saw one quietly moving through a bush — magical and unexpected.
From the Filopappou Hill you can also see Acropolis really really well.
Another must-visit is the already mentioned Lycabettus Hill, the highest point in Athens, with a small white chapel at the top. You can see the sea, the city, everything. The hill is dotted with agaves and cactuses — you’ll notice old, wooden blooms of agaves that have flowered once in their lifetime and died. Nature, history, and view all in one place. And yes, we saw a turtle here too during our last trip! So always keep an eye on the bushes. :))
Of course, you’ll probably end up in Monastiraki Square, one of the liveliest places in the city. It’s packed with street performers, souvenir shops, and that busy Athenian energy.
Nearby, take time to walk through the Athens National Garden — free to enter and full of exotic birds and greenery. One of the charming little surprises inside is a small zoo area — you’ll find geese, ducks, goats, rabbits, and a few other animals living there. It feels a bit like stepping into a tiny countryside corner in the middle of Athens. Definitely worth a visit!
Next to it stands the Temple of Olympian Zeus, which once was among the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Only a few columns remain, but their sheer size is impressive, and the history surrounding the site makes it worth the entrance fee.
Other beautiful stops include the Ancient Agora, a better-preserved spot compared to the Acropolis and full of historic charm. And honestly, there are only a couple of buildings that are interesting and they are visible from the hill of Acropolis or from the fences nearby. So if you are in a rush, you can totally skip this place! The majority of it is ruins so unless you are super interested in antient history, it might not be worth it on a tight schedule. ❤️
And the neoclassical Academy of Athens and National Library — great for photos and a quick history fix.
If you’re already nearby, peek into the Holy Catholic Cathedral of Saint Denis — the architecture and interior are stunning.
On a practical note: taxis from apps like Bolt and Uber work differently in Athens. The apps give only an estimated price, but inside the car, they run on taximeters, and traffic often makes it more expensive than expected. We tried a few times and found it frustrating - the price was always much higher than shown in the app! The public bus system is ok — the only thing is buses don't always come on the time they say they will! So don’t be too scared if the bus doesn’t come, it will come eventually haha 😀 It's also very cheap and you can tap your bank card right inside the bus, which is super convenient.
On the last day we also used a bus to go to the sea - just some very random beach which I don't know the name of. 😁 We walked alongside the seashore and also me and my partner took a swim! Still quite cold though!
I could go on but I feel like the post is already super super long!
My biggest suggestion? Don’t over-plan. Let Athens show itself to you. Wander. Discover. Look into the bushes (you might see a turtle!). It’s a city of contrast — ruins and new buildings, elegance and graffiti, calm hills and chaotic streets. That’s what makes it unforgettable. And now, after two visits and a deeper dive into its rhythms, I feel like I understand its heart just a little bit more. ❤️