Rather than detailing the intricacies of being a tourist in Lisbon, I thought I'd snapshot it with a few paragraphs I wrote as a kinda poetic impression. I'll add a little footnote at the end of what else I thought of it. I'm publishing this a little out of sequence of events as 
Currently we are in Ericeira, an hour north, in a beach carpark in the rain.
The last time I was in Lisboa was in the month after 9/11. I had my 30th birthday there, by the castle, drinking capirinhas as a lightening storm fizzed around.
I remember the decay most, the broken tiles and the empty houses. I loved the humanness of this - the broken things tell a story as much as the buildings that charge €6 euro for entry.
Now there are tuk tuks - tuk tuks!
Like today, we didn't take the tram, crowded with tourists. We walked. And my little 4 year old travel partner Jarrah walked bravely up the hills of the city too. I recall running from the rain in the grounds of the castle, taking shelter under a yellow arch. Meeting two Americans, Jarrah's eyes grew big. 'Oh, did you here about those buildings that exploded?' he exclaimed.
I went home shortly after that. It was an odd time in the world, and of course, we would have many odd times after that. I imagine it was also a time for those experiencing the earthquake of 1755.
How things have changed, they would say. Tuk tuks!
Broken tiles are replaced. Facades are redone. The city is reconstructed just as many are, after earthquakes and bombs and economic down times.
The queue to the castle was horrifyingly long. Instead, we loved the views, the quiet corners, the broken doors and weeds springing from tiles, the graffiti, the artists and musicians that earn a living amongst the masses of ceramic tiles and miniature trams for sale.
We eat pastel de bacalhau from the metro station for .75 rather than pay €5 in a tourist bar - victoriously, of course, as we watch the sardines in the tin can trams squeal up cobbled hills.
Time moves on, and we do too, pleased to escape the crowds.
Notes
- €5 for a pastel de bacalhau is insane. Tourists are fleeced in capital cities. Who pays for such things? The rich? The retirees? The suckers? And what's the guarantee of authenticity?
- If you are a lover of literature, try Portuguese writer Jose Saremego. Try "The Year of the Death of Ricardo Reis" by José Saramago. It's a novel that explores the aftermath of the 1755 Lisbon earthquake and its impact on Portuguese society, as seen through the eyes of the character Ricardo Reis.
- How many European cities LOOK old eg medieval but have just been reconstructed as such since they were destroyed eg Warsaw? What are we led to believe is original but is a mere replica?
- Tuk tuks are horrible. They only appeared in 2010 or thereabouts.
- How can ordinary people afford to pay to visit churches, towers, views? Why is everything about money?
- Crime, pickpockets, beggars. City life is harsh.
- We stayed at the campground which was nice though with lots of road noise. €32 for a tent site in the trees and a great shower, and secure parking for the day.
- Bus system great but BOLT taxis were cheaper and faster. The app is great. Too easy!
I really liked this artwork. She's going to do a print in A4 size for me and send it to the UK. I love the ruins and nature taking over... This is reminiscent of that.
After a day of city we left in traffic and a rainstorm to a beach carpark and fresh air. We decided we are not so keen on cities these days.
Man, in the final analysis, is an irrational creature. -José Saramago, The Year of the Death of Ricardo Reis
With Love,
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