Hello everyone.
Svrzina kuća or Svrzo's house is Museum in Sarajevo. It is example of Ottoman residential architecture in Bosnia and Herzegovina from end of 18th century and through 19th century.
For some time I was planning to visit Svrzos House. Last year I came but restauration was ongoing so I was not able to enter. Yesterday was the day I visited Svrzos house for the first time.
Lets start from Baščaršija and Sebilj.
Baščaršija or Old Bazzar is old Bazaar from Ottoman empire. It is historical and cultural center of Sarajevo. So it is fair starting point. It was built in 15th century. Translation of Baščaršija is main market. And heart of Baščaršija is Sebilj. Water fountain built in 1753. Also you can see many pigeons around the Sebilj.
Svrzos house is around 6-7 minutes walking range from here.
Yesterday was sunny and many people were out. You can see pigeons as well.
Bosnian coffee.
On your way to Svrzos house you will pass near Jahja-pašina džamija or Jahja-pašina mosque. It is was of the oldest mosques in Sarajavo.
This mosque was built in 1482/83.
Svrzos house
Svrzos house is dependency of Museum of Sarajevo. It is example of Ottoman residential architecture in Bosnia and Herzegovina and you it shows lifestyle of Bosnian Muslim family through late 18th and 19th century.
It consists of group of buildings that were built in stages. Oldest buildings that from late 18th century.
It was built by upper class old family in Sarajevo Glođo family. Glođo family is known for their erudition and they were leading struggle for Bosnian autonomy in Ottoman empire. Glođo family did not have male heir and later, by marriage, the house passed on other old family in Sarajevo, the Svrzos.
House has its public areas and private family areas.
This is the first courtyard or garden when you enter the house.
On the left is high wall that separates road and house. Courtyard is covered with stones.
This is photo from upper floor. Here you can see entrance to the courtyard in the right back.
The housing complex of Svrzos house has its selamluk or public areas and haremluk or private family areas.
This part that is close to the road is public part of the house. Here you would receive guest and conduct your business affairs.
We will go through each space.
On the end of the courtyard on the left are stairs that lead to upper public area.
With wooden stairs we get to Kamarija. Kamarija is open balcony from where you can see courtyard. Word Kamarija comes from Arabic word for moon El - kamer. This balcony is open and at night it is light by moonlight and you could observe moon so you understand connection with the name.
Interesting is that its written that right on view or being able to see your surrounding is unwritten rule in construction of houses and the buildings were designed so they dont block each others view.
Here we can see that view from Kamarija.
There are explanations on every room and space.
Small room next to Kamarija is Čardak. It is one person room. From here you can observe the courtyard and street. This room is made that home owner can be alone while rest or pray.
On balcony or terrace there is a place called abdestluk. It is place where ablution - religious wash before pray - is done.
Here is the important room. The room for the coffee. You can enter here from terrace. It is called Kahve odžak. This room is close to the guest room Halvat.
This is place where raw coffee beans are roasted and later grinded.
I assume the smell of coffee would spread over the courtyard and other rooms.
Coffee smells nice when it is roasted.
This is Halvat.
Room for the male guests. Around room are Minders - sitting places. Inside there is a stove and washroom as well.
This is only room in the house that overlooks the street. It is important to see who is coming when you are expecting special guests and have important business meetings.
Passage to the other part of the house.
Until now we saw public spaces. Now we enter into private family space.
Here in this passage is toilet. Even though you enter to it from the house phsicaly it is built apart from the house. Hygiene was very important.
This is other part of the house. Here we have bedroom, dining room and girls room.
This is the bedroom.
Here there are are wooden closet, stove, sink and cabinets for matrasses, pillows and blankets. By collecting them the room could be used for daytime as well.
This space looks so refreshing and calm. Living here would not be a bad idea.
You can see bešika or cradle for kids.
Decoration on the wall.
On the windows you can see wooden latticework called mušebak.
It is used to assure the privacy of the inside of the room.
This is girls room. The girls room is room where girls in family would spend time most of their time embroidering.
Works of art such wrappers, scarves and quilts embroidered with silver and golden threads would come out of here.
It was important for a girl living in city to be good at embroidery and to make its own trousseau and to have certain level of education.
Dinning room
Dinning room had sofra or table. People would sit around the table.
Room also has washroom and stove. After the meal you can rest on minders behind - low sitting places.
This is sofra. On the left you can see ewer and basin with towel for washing your hands before and after eating food.
We washroom in the dinning room. This washroom had pešnjak or container for heating the water (on the right). So this was boiler 200 years ago. You would mix called and hot water in the container above you that had tap on it.
For me it sounds quite modern for that time.
One more interesting stuff for me was such a details on the wood. These are all handmade. Carving on the wooden furniture are sometimes so detailed and beautiful. If you think that they are done by hand and individually it that way that each of them is a bit different and unique.
Every house built is in some sense different than other.
I will put more photos as we go through the rest of the house.
This lets call it door was interesting to see. First I thought it is for protection at night to close it. But it had more usage.
You could close it and use it as place to put stuff. And if you had small children you close it to prevent them falling and going somewhere.
Look inside the other private courtyard.
Like I said there are many wooden decorations around the house.
Each wooden post is decorated.
One of beautiful decorations.
Wooden stairs with decorated railings. So much details wherever you look.
On the first floor are storages.
Storage near the stairs.
In the courtyard there is water fontain.
This is zumbul flower.
This courtyard has trees as well. Cherry tree.
This is Hajat. It is part of the courtyard, a hallway that looks at courtyard.. Hajat is connection between outdoor and inside of the house, specially during summer and spring days and nights. Ceiling is colored in vibrant colors and floral motifs.
It looks lovely up close.
In this part of house we have kitchen and area for special occasions.
Whenever you enter in some part of the house you wonder what will come next.
Kitchen
Mutvak or kitchen is on normally on the ground floor. Here you can see many different pots, flour storage units, preparation spaces and other food preparation equipement.
Storage space.
Place where you sieve the flour to remove any unwanted particles.
Stove in the middle of kitchen
Huge pot. Also I think here is cleaning place with water access.
This pot is huge. This stirring spoon is around 1 meter in length.
Other cooking metal oven lets say.
It is called sać.
When you enter kitchen you can feel it is fresh. Then I noticed that there is no ceiling as you see. It makes air flow and smoke to go out.
There is space between roof and wall.
Veliki Halvat or Large Halvat
Other room here is Veliki Halvat or Large Halvat or big reception room. This is place where you recieve your relative and friends during celebrations, gatherings and weddings. This room is furnished with valueble items from travels of family Glođo and Svrzo and items from Sarajevo Bazaar which was trading center.
Other small room that is connected with Large Halvat.
Details on this wooden closet in this room are quite something.
And more lovely details on the wood.
I have feeling where there is space on wood where you can carve something , it is carved.
Also these rooms are for gatherings so makes sense to have them nicely decorated.
Lovely closet facing sitting area in Large Halvat room.
Door is beautifully decorated.
One more look at this part of the house.
In the wall there is this interesting cabinet.
When you open the door you see this wood cylinder like shape.
But it rotates so when you rotate it it is one of the storage cabinets.
Two courtyards are connected with this passage.
We are almost at the end of the tour of Svrzos house.
This is place where our journey started.
Small room on the right. It is place where male helpers were staying. Also here could be some gatherings.
Room has similar layout as other rooms.
Place under the stairs is stable.
It has entrance from the back so horses dont enter through the courtyard.
And that is all. I was very surprised by the Svrzos house and its details and size.
We stayed for some time going through all spaces. Such beautiful and calming atmosphere. Maybe during summer or later in spring is also nice to visit since there will be more flowers around.
Visiting here is like walk through the history.
Place to visit if you are around and have time.
