Hello dear friends. In today's post, I'd like to talk about our visit to a small town called Martina Franca. The town of Alberobello, which I mentioned in my previous post, is quite close to this town, about 12 km away. We wanted to visit Martina Franca as our second stop. You can reach Martina Franca by train from Bari, or by Ferrovie del Sud Est buses from Monopoli. The journey takes about an hour. To skip the new and not-so-interesting town at the base of the hill, you need to get off at the second stop for the historic center. This town is well-maintained and charming, with a historic district that draws visitors. A friend of mine was reminded a bit of Dubrovnik, which we visited last year.
We were glad to have rented a small car. Italy's small, unique and charming towns are places many tourists have never even heard of. There are countless small towns scattered across the country. These towns always have one or more churches and typically a historic center. As you wander through this center, you get a chance to feel and immerse yourself in the town's atmosphere. Sometimes we stumble upon these kinds of towns by sheer coincidence. Martina Franca is one of them.
It's a tiny town located in the heart of the southern Italian region of Apulia. With a population of around 49,000, it's the second largest town in the province of Taranto.
I found this small town while preparing for a trip to Apulia on Google Maps. Since I had seven days to make the most of my time in Monopoli, between morning and evening swims in the sea, I looked for nearby places to visit and interesting sights to see. The name Martina Franca caught my attention—it sounded poetic and graceful, like a girl's name. When I clicked on it, photos showing images of the town appeared. These images really impressed me, which is why I decided to visit.
The name Martina, which drew me so much, actually has nothing to do with femininity and isn't related to girls. Martino was a saint who gave his name to the mountain on which this wonderful town was established. San Martino is the patron saint of Martina Franca and the town's main attraction is the Basilica of Saint Martin, built in the second half of the 18th century in the Baroque style that was popular in Apulia at the time.
The basilica is located in the heart of the historic center, in Piazza del Plebiscito. Therefore, the very center of Martina Franca is a must-visit spot for those who appreciate a perfect blend of history and Baroque architecture. The façade of the cathedral features a relief depicting the moment when Saint Martin shared his cloak with a beggar, symbolizing his generosity and compassion.
Martina Franca's history isn't filled with complex events, dramatic intrigues, or significant happenings. The city's origin dates back to the 10th century, when the local people would take refuge in a small settlement on Mount San Martino due to frequent Saracen raids. In the early 14th century, Prince Philip I of Taranto built four small villages here, one of which was named San Martino. Philip granted everyone in the area rights and freedoms. Martina became a strategic center for protecting France's interests at the southern end of the Apennine Peninsula and it combined with the original name "Franca." This simple past forms the basis of the town's history and reflects its peaceful and charming nature. The town, influenced by the French, shaped its culture and history over the centuries.
The tax breaks given to those living in Martina Franca attracted many noble families and businesspeople in modern terms. Wealthy families built elegant villas, palaces and churches in the Baroque style that was popular at the time. A new era began for the town: industries developed, various forms of art flourished and painters, poets, writers, musicians and scientists emerged.
Since then and up to today, Martina Franca has been recognized as a cultural center, not only for Apulia but for all of Italy. At the end of July, it hosts the annual Valle d'Itria Festival, a classical music and opera festival. Operas and concerts are held at various venues across the town, including the Palazzo Ducale and the Basilica of Saint Martin.
Apulia (Puglia) is often seen as a poor agricultural region in Italy and doesn't attract many tourists. However, everyone who visits leaves with memories of emerald-green olive groves, countless vineyards, stunning Adriatic Sea coastlines and the whitewashed trulli. In my previous post, I mentioned these trulli and shared their photos.
The town has a lovely city center and is quite clean. As we walked around the town, we encountered various music and beautiful buildings. People find this tiny tourist town delightful and the food is delicious. You can try different flavors at cafes. There are tourists, but far fewer than in places like Alberobello. Everything is calm, quiet and relaxed.
One of the differences between Apulia and other Italian regions is its white-painted towns: Ostuni, Locorotondo, Monopoli, Castro and Martina Franca. These are the places I've visited, but there are many more such towns in Apulia. Apulian cuisine is also noteworthy. It might be less sophisticated compared to other regions, but it's simple and tasty, based on local fresh products. Pasta, olive oil and wine are considered the cornerstones of Apulian cuisine.
As in many medieval towns, the old town has entry gates. Martina Franca has several entry gates and some walls are still standing. I entered the old town through the Porta di Santo Stefano. The beautiful Baroque arch of Santo Stefano was built in the Baroque style. When visiting Martina Franca, it's important to get off at the correct stop to reach the historic center. The old town, with its narrow streets and historic buildings, offers a typical medieval atmosphere. The Baroque-style archway of Porta di Santo Stefano is an impressive entryway that reflects the town's historic and artistic wealth.
Unfortunately and to my great disappointment, I don't know why I didn't take a photo of the Palazzo Ducale. Why did I skip it? Despite being one of the city's most important tourist spots, did its exterior not attract me? However, I saw photos of its beautiful interior online and it would have been interesting to visit. Walking a bit further along the street, we reached the famous Plebiscito Cathedral Square.
In Plebiscito Square, next to the Cathedral of Saint Martin, there's a civil tower with a courthouse and a clock tower. The tower has a regular clock above and a sundial below.
Just behind Plebiscito Square is Piazza Maria Immacolata, often referred to as "I Portici." This square is notable for its semi-circular arcade with many arches. The complex, designed by Tarantine architect Davide Conversano in 1854, was intended as a market area. Under each arch are small shops, restaurants and cafes. This place serves as the commercial center of the old town.
The town's jewel is its historic center, a maze of narrow streets filled with dead-ends and passageways, designed especially to escape or ambush in case of enemy attacks.
It's amazing to see the narrow streets lit up by white walls, with pale stone and small open areas juxtaposed with Baroque extravagance. Here, trees grow in large pots and vases, while colorful flowers cascade from balconies and windows.
Another significant religious structure in Martina Franca is the Church of Saint Dominic (Chiesa di San Domenico), built in the mid-18th century to replace the Romanesque church of Saint Peter. It was constructed in the Baroque style and features elaborate decorations. Due to the narrow space in front, taking a photo was quite challenging.
After a while, when siesta time came, the town became calm and the streets were almost empty. Yet there's a hidden beautiful building around every corner. The architecture is impressive and detailed, so I think it's important to take plenty of time to explore the town.
Recently, we visited the magnificent Perugia and the enchanting towns of Umbria. Although these towns in Umbria are bright and brick-colored, they are so different from the humble and somewhat pale Apulian towns. Every region of Italy has its charm and uniqueness. That's why I always say that Italy is endless and you need to visit more than once to experience its beauty and diversity.
After we completed our tour, we wondered whether we would like to live in Martina Franca. Some people might find the town beautiful, but it might be a bit too calm for them. If you're looking for a peaceful and tranquil place, this could be perfect, but for those who prefer a more vibrant lifestyle, this town might seem boring. I really liked it. If you ever travel to Italy's Puglia region, visit Martina Franca. I'm sure you'll enjoy it as much as I did.