I have been to India twice. The first time it was a flight to the southern part of Goa, and after that a trip from there along the "Golden Triangle" — Jaipur, Agra, Delhi. After all, it was impossible for me to visit India and not see the Taj Mahal. And that trip I felt what a railway is in Indian style. When I was flying there, I met a girl who loved India very much and was going to live there, teaching yoga.
She advised me to read "Shantaram", a book written by a European for Europeans, a bestseller that slightly opens the veil of secrecy over India and tells about the people who inhabit it. I got to read the book only a few years after my return from that trip, and it made me want to return there.
The second trip was to the northern part of India, where the Himalayas rise. I ended up in high mountains, walked along the shepherd's paths, overcame the Tamsar pass.
The purpose of that trip was the lost in the mountains village of Bara Bhangal. There I saw unusual rituals and sacrifices, there I met wonderful people and saw another India.
Now for myself I divide India into three parts, very different and similar at the same time, and I want to tell you a little about them. Surely, I have not seen everything that is worth seeing, and later my perception of the country may change ... but for now I see three faces of this many-sided country.
Part 1. Tourist India
India is home to many attractions, ancient fortresses and religious buildings. For example, Amber Fort in the north of Jaipur city. It is so huge that you can get lost in its inner passages, and the Hall of mirrors is amazing.
Here you can ride an elephant.
And see the monkeys jumping on the walls.
India is very hot, and street vendors come to your aid, who are always ready to sell you a bottle of water or give you coconut milk. But be careful when buying water — check the cap of the bottle. Sometimes merchants simply pour tap water into used empty bottles.
Here is the Lotus Temple in Delhi. This is a temple of the Bahá'í religion, but here anyone can worship whoever believes in without disturbing others. The beautiful building attracts tourists from all over the world.
About eighty percent of India's population is Hindu, but other religions are also represented here.
At dawn, people go out onto the rooftops and meet the sun.
People in India are very fond of taking pictures. I would say it's a photographer's paradise in this sense. This man asked to photograph him with his granddaughter. He looked at the resulting shot, smiled and said that he liked what I got. For him, the very realization that they were photographed together was important, and he rejected my offer to send him a photo.
There are a lot of people on the streets. In the evening, there are congestions of tuk-tuks, motorcycles, porters and ...
... cows, sacred animals that roam wherever they want.
Handicraft is very common. There are many workshops and small shops on the streets where Indians sell their own goods.
Chipmunks are running around the parks. Funny, lively animals that are interesting to watch at.
But I cannot fail to mention the other side of this country. It seems to me that every person who has been there is amazed at the surrounding poverty. People are sleeping on newspapers at the station. I saw exactly the same scenes on the streets of cities — people just live on the side of the roads.
On the rooftops of fashionable hotels, pancakes are fried late at night and people are sleeping wrapped in blankets.
India has a lot of people and a lot of rubbish. Here is the night street of Delhi, the capital of India. Rubbish lies in many places and smells sometimes hit the nose well. At first it is shocking, then you get used to it and begin to notice less and less.
I would like to visit tourist India with a person who loves it very much. For example, I would like to visit Varanasi, the city of the dead, but on my own I most likely will not go there. Not because I'm afraid of something, but because I want to try to see this place not through the eyes of a European tourist. Perhaps I can fall in love with the big and noisy Indian cities, but for now I am rather tired of them.
Part 2. Beach India
India looks completely different on the coast. Huge sandy beaches and fresh breezes blowing from the ocean.
Bungalows and relaxation under the palm trees by the pools. There are many hotels here, for every budget.
It's nice to go out to the sandy shore at night, look at the stars and listen to the sound of the ocean.
It is very easy to get food for yourself here — you take a friend, throw the net into the water with his help and you're done! Or you take a bag and a stick and look for holes in the sand in the surf. Down there are edible shellfish, which, if you are not afraid of the squeak of sand on your teeth, you can cook.
The tourist feels completely safe here, because he is being watched and rescued if something happens.
And each sunbed has its own guard who is ready to give his life, but your things will be safe and sound. And the price is just a little food.
Speaking of food. Here you can buy the freshest shrimp in the market.
And give it to a beach cafe to be prepared and served for you with a glass of cold wine.
I'm not a big fan of beach holidays and after a few days I start to get bored of idleness. On my second visit, I discovered a completely different India.
Part 3. Mountainous India
There are many small towns and villages in the foothills of the Himalayas. They are clean and tidy, and at night the streets smell good of food. This town is the Tibetan colony of Bir, from a bird's eye view. I made this shot while paragliding over it, jumping from a kilometer height straight into the clouds.
Many people here practice Buddhism.
When you pack your backpack and go to the mountains, the third face of India opens.
A lot of difficulties stand in the way. You have to be very careful and persistent.
But you will definitely be rewarded with beautiful views ...
... and new sensations. Overnight in a shepherd's hut near the waterfall, with a fire built inside, is a very unusual experience.
Climbing higher you will find yourself in a white country full of clean lakes and snow-capped peaks.
And even at these heights people live, carry loads on horses and graze sheep in pastures.
Trails leading forward, beautiful cliffs and a complete lack of tourists. Here the head clears up and you can breathe deeply.
Everyone who visits India will find something interesting for them. This country is huge and a lifetime is not enough to get to know it.
I miss India and someday I will definitely return there, lace up my boots, dip a chapati in dal, spin a prayer drum and walk a new trek through this mysterious country.
It's better to watch the photos in high resolution.
Photos were taken with cameras: Canon EOS 5D Mark II and OLYMPUS OM-D EM5
You can also see my photos in my blog LJ and in my profile on NatGeo
