Unlike many of Thailand's border regions which are usually heavily guarded, patrolled and frequently checked, this particular NNE corner of the country that bordered Laos was the complete opposite.
If you ever visit the north west part that neighbours Myanmar, you will often pass through checkpoints, have ID checked, encounter razor wire and see army posts/camps everywhere.
In this part of Chiang Rai, just east of the Golden Triangle, the border was marked by a 5 meter wide strip of burnt grass that followed the length of a mountain ridge. One side was Thailand and the other side was Laos.
With no guards, soldiers or any form of barrier, we had complete freedom in crossing from country to country.
Just for fun, we hopped back and forth from country to country but probably spent more time walking along no-mans land.
The sharp ridge had amazing views on both sides. We could see villages, farmland and dirt tracks in every direction and were confident that we really wouldn't have any problem in travelling back and forth - well apart from having to trek through some overgrown jungle and traverse some steep hillsides.
As the wind blew back and forth, we would catch the sound of gunshots from below. We guessed it was from hunters or at least hoped it was from hunters and not from armed soldiers who were in fact secretly guarding!!
Since we were free to walk along the ridge, we did and it appeared as if other people had in the past as well. There were also several points, particularly at the higher peaks that had dirt tracks leading up to them, or at least up part of them and then clearings for us to continue on foot. The ridge changed from either the burnt grass divide or rocky paths that often lead up to old army posts on the peaks.
There was no sign of anyone having been there for quite some time but at some point in the past, I guess there must have been a need to have 360 lookout points, dugout trenches and an eye looking down onto the neighbour!
Sand bags still remained but had seen better days. The views down into Laos - that literally started 1 step over the sandbag wall were great. In the bottom of the valley we could see the mighty Mekong river and the dozens of Laotian communities that relied off of it.
Although every spot along the ridge would have made a perfect camp spot, we knew from experience that the wind at night along steep ridges would be incredibly strong, especially as it builds up speed from the valleys below and is forced upwards quickly. Not only does strong wind keep you awake all night front beating and battering the tent fabric, I also didn't want to test the strength of the seals and seams of my new tent - obviously still in that 'it's new stage'!
We usually go by - if there's strong wind in the day, then the night will be bad. If the day is calm - we'll risk it and camp.
We had marked out a sheltered camp spot in the forest lower down on the mountainside but spent the day exploring the tracks and ridge just in case we discovered anything else.
Amazed by the views and the relative ease in accessing such a track, we were just as surprised that no one else was there at all.
We stopped on almost every corner to take in the views. The track was flat, dry and solid and made for easy driving but did have a few tight switchbacks.
There was rarely any need to engage 4WD and there were few obstacles to tackle.
On the top of one of the peaks was a concrete marker. We later found out that it was the official country divide marker between Thailand and Laos and were told they are dotted all along the ridge.
As the track seemed to descend and leave the ridge we started to enter the forest and began looking out for a spot to set up camp.
We turned off the main track and took one that became a little rougher. It did however add a bit of excitement to the end of the day. Luckily the route was only short and we quickly decided upon a place to stop.
We had already researched on a camping group that there was a natural spring and small stream half way down the mountainside. If we could find the source or the spot shared in the group then we could be sure it would be worth the late arrival.
Parts of the stream had been banked with concrete. We could only assume that the water was taken care of as it fed much of the farmland down stream.
One problem we have at many of the wild campsites we find is managing to park 'just right'! With a pop-open roof top tent we assumed that we could park anywhere and just set up.
As the main strength of the tent is over the truck bed and not on the folded out half attached to the ladder, we always sleep with our feet facing the ladder (less weight on the overhang) meaning that the drivers side should be parked with a slight tilt being just a tad higher. If its lower or on a downward angle, you end up sleeping with your head lower than your body and having all the blood rush to your head - a little uncomfortable.
It took a bit of setting up and trying to avoid certain roots and rocks but we managed - after about 5 mins of tweaking!
The water was shallow and very cold. We did jump in for a quick wash but couldn't take it for long!
Just around the corner we spotted someone else camping but could only see their green tarp and smell the dinner they started cooking as the sun set.
Even though we thought our dog might appreciate her own dog bed in the tent since the night was pretty cold she decided that sleeping stretched out in the middle sharing both of our sleeping bags was a much better choice!
The following morning we woke to the sound of birds and flowing water.
We needed to connect back onto the concrete road before trying to visit the next viewpoint and ridge but came across a strange temple/shrine mix. Perhaps because we were still so close to the border, that there was a strong chinese influence coming from the Laos side but we spotted a Thai and Chinese temple/shrine at the edge of the forest.
Once again there was no one to ask and no information about what we had found. Clearly looked after and well kept but may have been a little spooky finding this late at night with candles still burning!
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