Hello, friends. Cádiz is a small city on the ocean's edge, home to about 100.000 people. Here you can find amazing tuna, delicious sherry and exquisite wines produced in the surrounding towns. This city deserves at least one visit. It's both exotic and uniquely organized. While preparing for my trip I looked at the map and couldn’t quite figure out where Cádiz was. That’s because the city’s most beautiful historic district is an island, now connected to mainland Spain by a narrow strip of land.
But are the areas connected by this narrow strip also considered Cádiz? I had so many questions in my mind. Everything was clearer in Madrid, but here things seemed a bit more complex. In fact the city of Cádiz itself is just an island. This island is connected to mainland Spain by the 1812 Constitution bridge, the José León bridge and a sandy road. Along this road, charming trams also operate.
Wouldn’t you like to enjoy a fresh orange in the morning? No matter how long you live in Spain, you can never get used to the idea of having fresh oranges hanging above your head for free. All you need to do is jump and grab one. For Spaniards, this is nothing unusual. And the oranges are amazing!
We went to a café for breakfast. Like civilized people, we ordered something instead of picking fruit from the trees. I found a place in Cádiz where we could get coffee and, at least according to the menu, toast. If I discover a better alternative, I’ll be sure to share it. Their tea is served in teabags and cracked cups, though.
We continued exploring the city. Some places I discovered on my own, but others, more vibrant spots, were shown to me by a wonderful local guide. She was born in Cádiz and today works as a guide and blogger. I tried to learn more secrets about this city from her.
Like many other cities in Spain, Cádiz is one of the places first discovered by the Phoenicians. Of course, before the Phoenicians, there were indigenous peoples living on the Iberian Peninsula. The Phoenicians came to this region, strengthening and developing the existing settlement. They were the first to arrive here and during the Roman era, Cádiz became an important center for minting coins. Can you guess what was on those coins? Of course, tuna. This fish one of Cádiz’s greatest gastronomic treasures, became a symbol of the city. Even today you can see traces of fish-shaped coins on the façade of the local town hall.
And the mythological figure Hercules is also known to have appeared on the coins. According to legend, Hercules is considered the founder of modern Cádiz. Of course, this is just a legend, but it’s a fascinating story. The Hercules legend is seen in many ancient cities. The figure of Hercules remained on coins until the 19th century, during the reign of Queen Isabel II. During Isabel’s rule, Hercules was replaced by the queen’s portrait, known for her elegant hourglass figure. Thus Cádiz’s symbols became tuna and Queen Isabel. Today coins are no longer minted in Cádiz. This is done in Madrid. However, the memories of that era still live on.
Like Toledo and Valladolid, Cádiz also served as Spain’s capital, albeit briefly. Between 1810 and 1813 during Napoleon’s invasion, Cádiz was the only place the French couldn’t conquer, making it the natural choice for a new capital.
The city has its own legend too: A French soldier, while wandering the old streets of Cádiz, met a local woman and fell in love with her. It’s said that they met secretly in these narrow streets and shared a romance. Today, this street is closed off and people visit it to make wishes and toss coins. I made a wish too, but I’m not telling what it was!
However, according to our guide, this romantic tale is entirely fictional. In reality the narrow streets were used for smuggling. Goods brought from the New World were stored, sold and distributed throughout the city here.
We ended our trip at a local food market, indulging in cheese, local wines and seafood recommended by our guide. It wouldn’t have been right to leave Cádiz without tasting its best flavors! Before that, we warmed up with some flamenco, a dance that expresses both pain and passion. But enough about pain.it’s time to drink wine and savor life! Drinking wine is almost a tradition in Cádiz. Even kids seem to start ordering their own drinks at a young age!
In Cádiz children gain independence early, starting as young as 5 or 6. It’s not uncommon to see a child confidently ordering a drink on their own!
Cádiz is like a pearl on the ocean’s edge. That’s why skipping the city’s main market and its local seafood is unthinkable. My friend and I tried many local delicacies like scallops and tuna skewers. Tuna, in particular, is one of Cádiz’s most prized gastronomic treasures. These flavors are either loved or not liked at all. There’s no in-between!
The local market is a must-visit. Afterward, we headed to the neighboring town of Puerto de Santa María for a wine-tasting experience. Here we sampled sherry (jerez in Spanish), the region’s iconic drink, whose origins date back to the Arab period. The same place where sherry is made is also the birthplace of Spain’s famous black bull symbols. Originally used for advertising, these symbols can still be seen along highways today.
During the wine and brandy tasting, I realized that strong spirits don’t quite suit my palate. However, their aromas were incredible, filled with notes of vanilla, honey and flowers. If these scents were a perfume, they’d be amazing. Still I think it takes time to appreciate and enjoy such drinks. Do you like strong spirits or do you prefer lighter wines?
Cádiz is also famous in Hollywood. For example, the James Bond movie "Die Another Day" was filmed here. One of the film’s iconic scenes, where Halle Berry emerges from the sea, was actually shot on one of Cádiz’s beaches. Interestingly these scenes were meant to represent Cuba, but the crew chose to stay in Cádiz instead of traveling to Cuba.
When I visit Cádiz I’m always curious to learn about the lives of not just the locals but also those who’ve moved here. That’s why I spoke with our guide and Anna, a teacher who moved to Cádiz a few years ago. According to our guide, a typical Cádiz native (gaditano) is family-oriented, loves seafood and fried dishes and embraces the sun and beer as part of their lifestyle. Anna mentioned that Cádiz locals are very attached to their friend groups and can be a bit reserved when it comes to forming friendships with outsiders.
Cádiz is also a popular tourist destination, but rising tourism has forced some locals to move out of the city. Rent prices have increased significantly in recent years, with small apartments starting at 700-800 euros. Despite this living in Cádiz is still cheaper than in larger cities like Madrid, especially when it comes to food.
Cádiz is a city that deserves to be explored for its history and modern charm alike. If you visit, be sure to check out the local markets, try sherry and immerse yourself in the city’s unique atmosphere.
Compared to the cost of living in Madrid, food prices in Cádiz are more affordable. For instance, monthly grocery expenses for one person can be around 200 euros, depending on their diet.
When I asked our guide who Cádiz is best suited for, she replied: I think Cádiz is for people who love to live through feelings. Here, you shouldn’t try to understand everything logically. It’s a small city. What matters is capturing the feeling: the sense of connection with nature, lightness, joy and peace. For me, Cádiz means freedom. The ocean, the boundlessness and the inner calm are all here with me. It’s the perfect place for those who want to live in harmony with themselves, far from the chaos of big cities.
If you dream of living by the ocean, enjoying fresh seafood and leading a peaceful life. And if you’re willing to spend around 500,000 euros on an apartment Cádiz might be the city of your dreams. However, living here comes with its challenges. For example, many Spaniards buy apartments in Cádiz as investments. These apartments are rented out to tourists in the summer, forcing locals to vacate their homes during the high season.
Visiting Cádiz and spending a holiday here turned out to be one of the most enjoyable and rewarding decisions we’ve made. Escaping the hustle and bustle of Madrid and stepping into a completely different world was amazing. Life moves at a much slower pace here. People sit in parks and watch life go by, never in a rush. Service in restaurants and cafés is slower compared to Madrid, but that’s part of adapting to Cádiz’s laid-back atmosphere.
Now I’m off to discover other lesser-known but equally enchanting and flavorful corners of Spain...