Basilica di Santa Maria delle Grazie, on its own, is certainly not a "must see" Milan destination. But on one wall of its old Dominican dining hall resides one of the greatest Renaissance masterpieces: Leonardo's Last Supper.
Amazing care has been taken to preserve Leonardo's work. Only 30 people are allowed in at a time, for 15 minutes, and you go through a series of doors to dehumidify the air - as a result, the air in this room is the freshest in Milan!
As you enter, it's a memorable experience. Your hermetically sealed chamber opens and, unexpectedly, you enter a large hall. Before you on the wall opposite is the Last Supper. Even though it's faded and has seen better days, it remains magnificent. It's huge, covering the entire wall, not some tiny painting. Of course, Leonardo did not use the standard fresco painting technique that didn't fit in with his style, so its deterioration began quite early; numerous attempts at restoration followed, the latest a 21 year effort completed in 1999.
Alas, the 15 minutes goes fast. Still, absorbing the painting, amidst the reverent silence in the hall, is an experience not to be missed.
However, be prepared to shell out some cash. True, €12 tickets do go on sale, but the vast majority are instantly snapped up by numerous tour operators. Three months in advance we attempted to get the tickets but they were all sold out for our time in Milan. Dozens of tours, however, have as their chief selling point a Last Supper visit - that is how we ended up with a three-hour Milan walking tour that culminated with a Last Supper viewing. Not the greatest option, and not cheap, so that's the downside.
This was a highlight! I booked a guided tour through Viator which included a walking tour. It was definitely worth it to see the last supper. You only get 15 minutes instead but that was plenty to take photos. It's literally a huge fresco on the wall, definitely different from photos! A great stop for sure!
