Let's go back in time to the beginning of spring when the sun is so dazzlingly bright, the air is nice and cool, and the greenery is just coming to life and beginning to bloom... When the energy of nature is so powerful that even lazy cannot sit at home.
To the wonderful few days when my hubby last got a few days off from his military service, and we could make a couple of one-day trips somewhere not far from Kyiv. I'm glad to know that he had a few relaxing days with "not military" activity before he left again.
I will be your guide to Ukraine today. My today's story is dedicated to the city of Korsun-Shevchenkivskyi or just Korsun and its main site - Lopukhin-Demydov Estate. It is the last post of my series:
Lopukhin-Demydov Estate
Guides call it "Palace and Park Ensemble" and this banal and pompous name tells us little about this landmark. In fact, you can spend a whole day here, and it will pass quickly.
Look at the map. The estate occupies 2 islands on River Ros, which is considered one of the most picturesque rivers of Ukraine.
At the beginning of the last millennium, along the banks of this river, the Slavic tribes of the Polyan and Rosses settled. The land where they lived was called Ros, and later this name was transformed into Rus. Prince Kyi known as the founder of the city of Kyiv the capital of Rus was the Polyan prince.
In 1032, Prince Yaroslav the Wise founded the city of Korsun. The name of the city was given by the priests of the Kyiv Tithe Church. The holy fathers were amazed by the nature that reminded them of their native Chersonesus (or Korsun) in the Crimea, so they gave this city the same name.
The city was a border outpost of Rus. But in 1240, Korsun shared the terrible faith of most Rus' settlements and was destroyed by Tatar-Mongols. After that, the city is mentioned in historical documents during the rule of the Poles as far back as the end of the 16th century. It is unknown whether the city existed between these dates or when it was restored, but in 1585 the Korsun received Magdeburg law.
In the 17th century Korsun became one of the main centers of the Ukrainian Cossacks, and in 1648-1654 it was the temporary residence of the hetman of the Zaporozhian army Bohdan Khmelnytskyi.
In 1780, the Korsun Starost was handed over to the Polish prince Stanisław Poniatowski the nephew of the last Polish king Stanislaus-Augustus. Prince Poniatowski freed local peasants from serfdom. Stanisław Poniatowski planned to set up his suburban residence on the granite and picturesque island. In the 80s of the 18th century, he began the construction of a large estate, which is now the basis of the Korsun-Shevchenkiv historical and cultural reserve.
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The architects were J.A. Muntz and J.D. Lindsay. The palace became the flagship of the new style on the territory of the then Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth.
The original estate looked a little different than the one you see today. In 1789, the estate consisted of a landscape park with an area of 97 g on three islands on the Ross River, a palace, an orderly gallery, two stables and three outbuildings.
After Korsun was incorporated into the Russian Empire, a fight for the right to own Korsun and the estate of Prince Poniatovskybegan between the Engelhardt sisters. The emperor decided not to quarrel between the sisters and placed the city at the disposal of his Minister of Justice and Prosecutor General Peter Lopukhin.
He immediately restored serfdom, and the dissatisfied were severely punished.
The estate is being rebuilt and acquires features of Russian romanticism with elements of neo-Gothic and classicism. An entrance gate in the style of medieval castles, a Swiss house (there is now a picture gallery), a Lutheran chapel, an arena and a greenhouse are being built.
The estate is considered one of the most beautiful in Europe.
In 1918, the Bolsheviks shot the last representative of this family.
The first thing you spot when crossing the bridge over Ros is the entrance gate in the shape of French medieval defensive architecture. The ensemble is quite original and is not similar to other architectural complexes in Ukraine.
There is a ticket office in the tower on the right. I was very surprised how low the ticket prices are. For 3 tickets to the palace and museums for 1 adult, I paid about 3.5 dollars. That is, the visit cost us 7 dollars for 2. We didn't pay for tickets to the military museum as my hubby and I have had enough of military subjects.
Working hours: 8.30–16.30 daily.
Inside the Palace
Once upon a time, the prince's palace was impressive with its magnificence. The walls of the rooms and halls were decorated with family portraits by the brushes of prominent artists and engravings.
Today it's quiet and almost empty. We were the only visitors at the moment.
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I love the old pictures of the palace and the paintings where it's depicted in the best years.
The rooms are seen in a circle. We passed one hall after another, and when we opened the last door, a large ballroom opened before us. Its purpose is not in doubt, even if there was no grand piano in the far corner. Once, concerts were held here every Saturday.
Two entrances in Greek style, balconies, and high ceilings complement the room's charm.
After inspecting the interior, we took a walk around. The surroundings
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Marble statues once stood around the palace overlooking the river from granite rock. I'm not as gorgeous as a Roman or Greek statue but I have a distinct advantage - I'm still alive 😉😄
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It is unbelievable how the Soviet authorities were able to mutilate the buildings of the past century. What was the point? Don't people of all times want to live surrounded by beauty?
The Wing
The original wing built by Poniatowski was a one-story. During Lopukhin's time, 2 more floors were added. Now it is a military museum.
We didn't get inside but it's fascinating on the outside. It used to have an open wooden gallery. There are stairs between the wing and the small chapel that will get you out of the palace. Another beautiful detail.
Swiss house
Built, probably, as a house for servants. The building is wooden, two-story with galleries that surround the house on three sides. The house is located on a rocky Swiss island, hence its name. Several families live in the house, and she has a dog that barks loudly.😀 That's why I couldn't get closer to take a picture of the main entrance.
River Ros
I just let you enjoy its rapids, massive rocks and reflections.
The park
I had no idea how big it was, and how beautiful it is here in early spring. I was delighted by this provincial park. Again, we met just a few people during our walk.
A two-hundred-year-old tree stands at the intersection of alleys. This is a local botanical monument of nature called Shevchenko Chestnut. The girth of the tree is more than 4 m. I was thinking it's an oak, they used to live that old.
The grotto and the bridge
In the descriptions of this place, it is noted that the "Devil's Bridge" thrown over the canyon is especially interesting. There is a point on the map and a photo. But we did not find it. Maybe the bridge was very old and was restored? Maybe it's its modern look or just another bridge.
On one of the islands, on the top of a wooded hill, a grotto was carved into the rock during Poniatovski's time. We could see it from the opposite hill, but we went down to the river, crossed the bridge, and climbed the hill on the opposite side.
The search for the grotto could have taken longer if it weren't for the local schoolchildren who ran along the paths up and down the hill. They had something like a quest and made our quest easier. 🙂
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Nick switched on the light so I could take a picture.
Frankly, I was surprised that there wasn't garbage or unpleasant smell in the grotto. Overall, it was a surprisingly pleasant experience. I would like to come here again someday. It might look marvelous in autumn.
The grotto and the hill offer a stunning view of the palace.
There are also a stable and carriage house, and a brick arena. In very poor condition, look abandoned, but still beautiful.
The End.
The list of sources and useful links: [1] [2]
I hope you enjoy the pictures and the story.
Thanks for your time, and see you around!
