I have just completed an epic hike covering 55 kilometres over a 5-day period, on the South coast of South Africa.
12 ladies united to walk together, explore, converse and take in the incredible scenery that this area has to offer.
ROADTRIPPING TO DE HOOP NATURE RESERVE
We left Cape Town early and started the 4 hour trip up the N2 National road, passed over Sir Lowry’s Pass and made the obligatory stop for a coffee and a pie at Peregrine Farm stall. The pies are heavenly, home baked daily and their bakery is brilliant! It was so tempting!!!! The shelves are stocked with local produce and natural remedies including a very good mosquito stick that I must say, worked a charm.
We left with our goods ready for the rest of the drive. We made good time and got the dirt road that turned off the National road and spent the next hour carefully weaving our way over and around the potholes and scanning the fields for signs of life.
Cape Vulture
Shortly before the final turn towards De Hoop Nature reserve I spotted what looked like a Turkey sitting on top of a lamppost. It just tuners out to be the one and only Cape Vulture that we would spit on the entire hike. The Cape Vulture is usually a regular view on Day 1 of the Whale Trail and we managed to spot it outside the gates before we even got there.
We had to stop once more to admire these gorgeous beauties who were only too happy to pose for the camera.
DE HOOP NATURE RESERVE & THE POTBERG HUT
One left turn and about 20 minutes later we arrived at the gates of De Hoop Nature Reserve and next up, we it hut for the first night before the hiking began.
The Potberg hut was charming and basic but still had everything we needed to have a great night together before the hike the next day.
It’s a bring your own bedding type of affair with plastic covered mattresses and big blue plastic crates to keep your personal goods in while you walked each day.
The slack packing service is efficient and makes for much easier hiking without the heavy weight of a big 50-70 litre bag on your back. And the crates fit more than I would be willing to carry.
All you need to carry is your rain jacket, small medical kit and your snacks for the day while you hike along with LOTS OF DRINKING WATER!!!
Along the way we found that some ladies had stashed some interesting goodies away in their crates that eventually came to be shared at the big table when we were all desperate for something sweet.
We made quick work of the fireplace and had a barbecue for dinner as we all spent time getting to know each other. Turns out we were all from different parts of Cape Town with interesting backgrounds.
I was also the only English girl on the hike amongst 11 other Afrikaans ladies! Good thing I enjoyed Afrikaans in school because it would have been a nightmare of I didn’t understand all of these crazy loud, hysterically funny women.
DAY 1 OF THE WHALE TRAIL HIKE
The next morning we packed and settled in for our one hour long briefing by the local ranger. I’m not sure an hour was necessary and he did try his best to keep us entertained, but I’m pretty sure all the info could have been sent ahead of time in an email.
The Whale Trail is fully booked a year in advance which means that every day a new group of 12 begin the 55 km hike from Potberg to Koppiealeen where we finished. Cars are parked in a secure area near a small building housing loo’s and showers for those finishing the hike.
We were specifically told that if we see anyone else on the paths that we should report it immediately as no one else should be there other than us. And other groups should be a days walk ahead or behind us making it impossible to catchup to each other. This info came in handy a couple days later.
Day 1 is a 15.5km inland leg running from Potberg, up a mountain with a 611 meter ascend to the radio station, followed by a long trek along the tops of the mountain before the descent towards Cupidoskraal.
As soon as the briefing was done we set off over the first bridge towards the mountains. And the long uphill climb began.
We could still see the Potberg hut in the distance for quite some time but the long uphill separated the fit from the not as fit amongst us. I guess I fell somewhere in the middle on this day.
I had mistakenly forgotten to take my magnesium (anti cramping) supplement the previous night and quickly took it in the morning before we hiked. Unfortunately the side effects hit as we were on the big hill and I felt somewhat floppy, a bit like a rag doll trying to climb a steep hill 😂. Oh well I eventually made it and by the latter part of the hike it had worn off and I felt good.
The mist and fog continued with a light drizzle that didn’t seem to soak us too badly but still called for rain jackets and rain covers on our bags. The catch 22 is that you end up sweating inside the rain jacket!
We eventually reached a lookout spot that is supposed to have magnificent views of the Breede River but we couldn’t see a thing. So we huddled together for a group photo on the bench looking at nothing but rocks and bush.
Soon the fog lifted to reveal the huge winding meanders of the Breede river down below. We took advantage of the gap and had a quick snack while we admired the view.
Good thing too! Because the next section was incredibly steep.
We traversed the top of a steep rocky ridge, carefully making our way over the mountain. From there the path took a gentle drop down the other side of the mountain and the long descent began.
The flora all along the path were incredible. It’s probably also one of the reasons I kept dropping back in the line. I constantly stopped to take photos as the others passed me by.
We lunched on the brand new bridge that has just been built over the river. The break was necessary and we enjoyed great conversations and good food.
Refuelled, we climbed a hill, crossed a river, climes another small hill and eventually made the final descent towards Cupidoskraal.
The original Cupidoskraal hut burnt down a couple years back so we got to enjoy the new hut 500 meters further along the path.
The arrival at the new Cupidoskraal was quite something. We had finished our first day of hiking and we’re so happy to be in our new place for the night.
The showers were in high demand and dinner was an exciting thought after the 15 and a half kilometre walk in the cool mist.
My hiking buddy, Valmer, had shared out the groceries amongst our crates and quickly pulled together a brilliant chicken curry with Sweet potatoes and brown rice. Just the perfect cold weather and comforting meal.
We all headed to bed with full tummies, tired legs and big plans for day 2 of our hike.
Tune in tomorrow for the next couple days of our hike.
Goodnight Cupidoskraal….