Colonial Architecture

Indonesia is not only rich in ancient architecture but it’s also filled with colonial architecture. However, after the independence, the buildings had been naturalized and given a new name and a new function. Today, some cities that were prominent with dutch colonies still maintain the building as part of the heritage area. For example, in Yogyakarta the colonial architecture is now made into a bank and post office which is located at the 0KM just south of Malioboro.

Though, unlike ancient architecture that shows the glory of Indonesia’s ancient civilization, These colonial buildings and areas are the remnants of the dark history of colonialism in Indonesia.

One intriguing example of an area surrounded with colonial buildings and rich with history is an area called Alun-Alun Malang (Malang Plaza). Unlike the plaza in Yogyakarta, alun alun malang according to Cars, Conduits, and Kampongs: The Modernization of the Indonesian City, 1920-1960 specifically the chapter of The Two alun-alun of Malang (1930–1960) it has an unusual shape and intriguing story. In that chapter, it lays out the significance of alun-alun for the colonials' image and how natives see the place changes over time before the dutch, to japanese, and to the independence of Indonesia. It also explained the function of the place and some conflicts happening during that time. I suggest you check out that chapter if you’re interested to know more after checking out my post.

Other than that book that I read which gave me insights of the places I saw, I also asked my mom who lived in that city back in the 70’s. She lived in that city for more than 5 years and told me that some places have changed its name and function. For example, she didn’t know if I say Societeit Concordia but she would know if I mentioned “Sarinah”, which is a small shopping mall that used to be the club for the Europeans.

Surrounding Alun-Alun Malang, there are churches and mosques which were built side to side.

“ You see, they are next to each other, perhaps to show some sort of religious tolerance?” said my sister who has been living in that city for 23 years. She was the one who took me around the colonials area as I told her that I specifically wanted to visit a colonial cafe called “OEN”.

According to the website, Toko “OEN” is a historical landmark that was built back in the 1930'sserving mainly Dutch and Asian Cuisine. It has a long history and now it seems that the place is no longer maintained by dutch descendants.

Now back to the some landmarks around the Alun-Alun or Plaza. One of the most beautiful churches around this area is the Immanuel church.

This Church is one of the oldest churches in the city that was built by the Dutch East Indies government. It has Gothic architecture just like the other two churches in the city. Unfortunately, these days surrounding the place is filled with electric wires that makes it hard to actually capture the beauty of the buildings. I also wanted to go inside of it but I have yet to ask my sister how I could go inside the church as unlike mosques, churches tend to be a private, closed space. Next to that church is a mosque that was built in the 19th.

Since my main destination is a colonial cafe called “OEN'', we went back to the northern side of Alun-Alun where the Oen’s store is located. From that store, I could also see another beautiful gothic style church called Sacred Heart of Jesus Catholic Church. In which next to it is a Mcdonald and “Sarinah”, a place that was once a club and a place to hangout for the europeans.

Oen’s building is maintained as is and a part of heritage place.So, once you step inside the cafe, it will feel like entering the cafe during the colonial era. Although, for today’s standard, this place will feel too vintage. The bamboo chairs alongside the table are something that is prominent during the 18th to 19th in the colonial era of Indonesia. It feels like everything is too rustic and needs replacement though the banner said, Gasten Gezelligheid Geeft which roughly translates as giving the guests conviviality. Though maybe the intention is good so that some people could feel nostalgia but in my opinion, it needs some renovations.

Malang is a city that is rich with colonial buildings. This city was once one of the prominent places for the Dutch East Indies government. From what I gather and noticed, a lot of places that still maintain the colonial buildings and architecture are mostly the city that is located in a mountainous area just like Malang. So, maybe this is the start of me discussing colonial buildings and moving from ancient architecture to 16th and 19th architecture in Indonesia. As currently I am in an area that is also rich with colonial architecture.