"Some books, like some mountains, are lonely and unrivalled peaks. This is one of them." – the Economist
I’ve been working my way through ‘Seven Years in Tibet’ for a while now – purchased at Toppings & Co., Edinburgh, around this time last year. Today, feeling pretty lethargic after a late night, but wrapped in a warm, golden mood, I took myself off to Coffee Lovers on Plein ’92 with one goal in mind: to finish ‘Seven Years in Tibet’.
I found a window seat, settled in, and read the final two chapters in the soft sunlight.
What a book.
| Date complete | Title | Author | Rating |
|---|---|---|---|
| 11.01.25 | Elephants Can Remember | Agatha Christie | 3 |
| 16.02.25 | Seven Years in Tibet | Heinrich Harrer | 4.5 |
This is an overwhelmingly meticulous novel… a melancholic read that ends on a very fragile note. The level of detail, though sometimes overwhelming, creates a vivid sense of agency/place. It undoubtedly deserves recognition as an important piece of travel literature... This particular edition (Harper Perennial, 2005) also includes an epilogue by Harrer, along with a P.S. section with recommended reads, top tips for modern explorers and a short interview conducted by Miranda Haines.
The book begins with Heinrich Harrer's daring escape from British internment in India, a perilous journey across the Himalayas during World War II, and concludes with the growth of an unlikely friendship with the young Dalai Lama. The vivid descriptions of Tibet’s landscapes and the harsh realities of survival in such extreme conditions make this a compelling read for armchair travellers. (On that note, for those interested, the postscript recommends the Royal Geographical Society - with the Institute of British Geographers - which supports research, education, and public engagement with geography.) But I think the book’s true value lies in its rarity as a memoir of Tibet before the Chinese invasion of 1950… it truly offers the most compelling firsthand perspective on a society once largely closed to outsiders. Upon arriving in Lhasa, Tibet’s capital, Harrer and his companion, Peter Aufschnaiter, are initially met with suspicion but gradually earn the trust and admiration of the Tibetan people.
The heart of the book lies in Harrer’s relationship with the 14th Dalai Lama - then a curious and intelligent boy. Harrer becomes the young leader’s tutor, introducing him to Western science, geography, and technology. Through Harrer's eyes, readers witness the Dalai Lama’s innocence, wisdom, and growing awareness of the political turmoil surrounding Tibet. It’s a long, slow burner of a text - but wow, is it worth it. Harrer paints a picture of a deeply spiritual society, steeped in tradition yet so very vulnerable to external threats – in the end overcome by the Red Army of China… ”Events in the land of the snows since then defy description”. - p. 289.
These quotes, in particular, stayed with me…
”I often think that I can still hear the wild cries of the geese and crates and the beating of their wings as they fly over Lhasa in the clear cold moonlight. My heartfelt wish is that this book may create some understanding for people whose will to live in peace and freedom has won so little sympathy from an indifferent world”.’ p. 288.
“Although the destruction of cultural items may continue, even the Chinese cannot destroy the highest mountains in the world. They surround the land, the throne of the Tibetan gods, and in the future , as in the past, devout Tibetans crossing the high passes woll cry out, “The gods will overcome!”’ - p. 293.
Curious to learn more, I explored some of the sites mentioned at the back of the book - and I’ll record them here for you to check out, too, if you're interested. If you’re looking for a comprehensive resource on the Tibetan community in exile, DharamsalaNet offers a wealth of information, including sections on arts and culture, schools and meditation centres, community organizations, and press archives. The Hüttenberg Centre celebrates Heinrich Harrer’s life and achievements as an explorer, with the Dalai Lama's endorsement. But if you really want to dive into Harrer’s remarkable archive, I’d recommend visiting the Harrer Portfolio, where you can view original photographs from his time in Tibet. The gallery is breath-taking…
It’s hard to grasp the scale of the devastation: 1.2 million Tibetans lost their lives following the annexation of Tibet, and 99% of the 6,000 sacred buildings were destroyed. According to Harrer, perhaps only 2% of the Lhasa described in this book still stands. Those figures are difficult to comprehend.
I wish I could have seen Tibet for myself, as it once was, but I’m afraid it’s a different scene today...
Just yesterday, I set out on a 19.65km walk with a friend through Tros-Marets, Bayehon, and Watche in the Ardennes. We hiked for five hours through snow-blanketed trails, the air crisp and the landscape quiet except for the crunch of our footsteps, the occasional fellow hiker, and, at one point on the plateau, the distant hum of a motorway. The landscape around us couldn’t have been more different from Harrer’s Tibet, yet the quiet pull of curiosity, of stepping beyond familiar paths, felt like a bridge between two worlds.
If you want to explore, you have to be willing to cross the inner line. "With a portion of impudence one can even reach regions that are out of bounds." - P.S. p. 15. Harrer was someone who brought to light a great plight. He continued to advocate and find justice for the people of Tibet right up until his death in 2006. This memoir not only serves as a historical document but also as a call to attention, highlighting the Tibetan people's ongoing struggle to preserve their cultural identity in exile.
Some things are timeless: the natural landscapes that surround us, the histories that ground us, the resilience of the Tibetan people...
I’m a little tired so struggling to bring all of this together. But this weekend aligned so wonderfully. The walk through the Ardennes and sweetly happy, sunlit morning painted a beautiful backdrop for the final intake of a much-complex, richly deserving text.
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Photographs: unless otherwise noted, all images were taken by me with an iPhone 8.