Novi Sad is considered one of the most beautiful cities in Serbia and during my visit, I was convinced that this title was well-deserved. With its warm and friendly streets, red-tiled roofs and relaxed atmosphere, it is an amazing place. However, it is not just aesthetically pleasing. It also holds great significance as an industrial, financial and cultural center. Moreover, the city carries the prestigious title of European Capital of Culture and hosts the world-renowned EXIT Music Festival. This festival brings together up to 200.000 people each year and is recognized as one of the best music festivals in the world.
Novi Sad is a multicultural and multinational city where religious or linguistic differences are not an issue. The city officially recognizes five regional languages: Hungarian, Slovak, Romanian, Croatian and Rusyn. An interesting detail is that, despite the presence of a Catholic cathedral in the main square, the majority of the population is Orthodox. Despite past oppressions it seems that people here have embraced each other’s cultures and managed to live in harmony.
Novi Sad is considered one of the most desirable cities to live in Serbia. Many people prefer living here rather than in the capital, Belgrade. The city is well-organized, well-maintained and full of life. Almost every corner of the city center is lined with cafes and outdoor seating areas. Interestingly, these cafes are not mainly for tourists but for locals. When I asked a waiter about this, he confirmed that these places are mostly frequented by locals rather than tourists. This proves that Novi Sad is not just a tourist attraction but a city that thrives in its own natural rhythm.
We strolled down the city's main pedestrian street, Dunavska Street, but it is not the only pedestrian-friendly area. Various side streets and small squares are also designed for pedestrians. Here, people do not just sit in cafes in the evenings or on weekends. They also enjoy coffee or lemonade during the day. A waiter explained that for Novi Sad residents, taking a coffee break during work hours is completely normal. No one rushes to grab a drink and leave. They sit down, relax and enjoy their time. Novi Sad is a city that slows you down and soothes you. The aesthetic beauty around you creates an inspiring atmosphere.
Perhaps this is why Novi Sad has been a magnet for Serbian writers, poets and publishers since the 19th century. Almost all major Serbian literary figures have lived or worked here at some point in their careers. Novi Sad does not attract visitors with grand historical monuments but with its unique character and architecture. Unlike Paris’ Notre Dame or Florence’s Uffizi, it is not a must-see tourist attraction, but rather a city that captivates with its simple beauty, vibrancy and authenticity.
Novi Sad is also known as the Serbian Athens, a name that reflects its historical importance. The city was established on the left bank of the Danube River in the 17th century. At that time orthodox Serbs were forbidden from building homes in the Catholic Petrovardin area, which led to the formation of the settlement. Despite these challenges, Novi Sad evolved into the cultural and artistic center of Serbian identity and gradually developed into the city it is today.
One of the city’s earliest settlements is Petrovaradin, which we also visited. In fact, Novi Sad expanded on the opposite bank of the river around the Habsburg fortress. The displaced Serbs not only founded Novi Sad but also turned it into a cultural hub, much like Athens was for Western civilization. Even during the Ottoman Empire, Novi Sad continued to develop as a cultural center and managed to preserve its identity despite lacking independence. As a result, today, Novi Sad has two historical centers: one around the pedestrian zone on the left bank and another near the fortress on the right bank.
Walking here, we felt a different atmosphere. Though the weather was warm outside, a sudden cold breeze hit us, as if someone had opened a refrigerator door. We noticed an open doorway and saw a large tunnel inside. We wondered if it was safe to enter, what if the door closed? As we stepped inside, we realized it was an enormous underground passage. Our voices echoed and for a moment, we thought we heard others speaking. But it was just the echo. The place had an eerie feel.
The fortress and its surrounding defense structures immediately convey the seriousness of past wars. The first fortress was built by the Celts, but the current structure was constructed to defend the Habsburg Empire’s borders. It was one of the most crucial defense points between Austria and the Ottoman Empire, even earning the nickname Gibraltar of the Danube. In 1694, the Ottomans attempted to seize the unfinished fortress but failed. Today, it is estimated that there are about 16 kilometers of underground passages beneath the fortress.
Petrovaradin Fortress does not feel like a museum. Rather, it gives the impression of a vast enclosed area. You can walk around and enjoy different viewpoints of the Danube River. The view is breathtaking. Below, there is a bridge that was bombed in 1999 but later rebuilt. Near the bridge, there is also a beach. Across the river, the hills are adorned with red rooftops and there is even a television tower on top. However, since there is no entrance fee, the area is not well-maintained and unfortunately, locals do not put much effort into keeping it clean. As a result, litter can be seen everywhere.
This fortress is not just about stone walls. Today, it has transformed into an area with tourist museums, cafes and stunning viewpoints. The fortress lost its military significance in the mid-19th century. After World War I, authorities considered demolishing it, as was done in Belgrade and other cities. However, the responsible engineer-colonel found Petrovaradin Fortress too beautiful to be destroyed and ensured its preservation.
If you look at the clock tower in the fortress, you might think the time is incorrect. But these clocks have a secret: the hour hand is longer than the minute hand. This was originally designed so that ships passing on the Danube could clearly see the hour, which was more important to them than the exact minutes.
Let me share a dining experience: We now order one dessert and one main dish because the portions are quite large and enough for two people. The historic center is full of tourist buses and guided tours. However, real life happens on the other side of the river. We preferred to stay there. In a small area, you can find museums, theaters, dozens of cafes and a park. It does not feel designed for tourists but rather for locals. It is a small yet vibrant space.
In the past Novi Sad imposed an air tax. Anyone sitting on a bench in the city park had to pay 2 dinars. And anyone staying in a tavern past 11:00 PM had to pay extra tax. Of course, these taxes no longer exist today. Now, you can breathe freely and enjoy your drink. Interestingly, I never saw a single drunk person in Serbia. Perhaps these old taxes taught people to drink more responsibly over time.
As night falls, Novi Sad takes on a completely different atmosphere. It feels like a festival every evening. And this is just a weekday, not even the weekend! Most venues serve drinks only, with very limited food menus. Tables are filled with glasses rather than plates. This cheerful environment is infectious. We initially stepped out just to take a few photos, but we soon found ourselves immersed in the lively scene. The warmth of the people, the air and the music create such an atmosphere that you do not want to go home.
As in many parts of Europe, people here love socializing. Even if their income is not high, they can sit for hours with a cup of tea or a soda, simply talking. Because the important thing is not drinking or eating but connecting with others. There is a difference between talking and truly conversing. And here, people know how to do both.
When we look at the city from our balcony, music sounds can be heard from all directions. This place may seem like a calm city, but every evening it fills with a different kind of energy. Our apartment is in a very central location, right in the pedestrian zone. Plus, we can enjoy the city lights and historical buildings from our balcony.
We have good motivation to wake up early: Finding a parking spot in the old town is almost impossible! In most places, you can park for a maximum of one hour and the free parking period ends at 7:00 am. There are very few private parking lots and finding a spot is hard.
Another beauty of holidays in Serbia is the opportunity to be close to nature. We visited Fruška Gora National Park near Novi Sad. This region is 510 meters above sea level and offers a unique view. Normally, there aren't such high mountains, but here it is like an island rising between plains. It is believed that this was once an island in an ancient sea. The park is 80 kilometers long and its width varies up to 15 kilometers.
When you go to a national park in Serbia, it's a good idea to bring not just sports shoes but also a swimsuit. National parks are always spread over large areas, so don’t expect all the tourist spots to be in one place. You’ll need a vehicle to move around, as there are several villages and settlements within the park. Also, walking to explore is inevitable. The trail we are walking on now is a circular one of about 10 kilometers. We haven't walked all of it, but there is an important detail: Every walking route has informative panels, signposts and roads marked with specific colors so that you can easily track your location. Using a GPS map will also make things easier.
Entrance to the national park was free and we didn't need any documents or tickets. However, things get a little tricky if you plan to travel by public transportation. There are buses from Novi Sad to some villages and towns, but you’ll need a vehicle to move around the park. The best option is to use a private car because the distances are quite long for walking or biking. So, you need to be prepared both physically and emotionally.
The Iriški Venac TV tower is a monument commemorating the events of 1999. That year, NATO conducted airstrikes on various cities in Serbia and Novi Sad was one of the targets. To summarize without going into too much detail, Belgrade was fighting separatists in Kosovo at that time. The US accused the Yugoslav government of ethnic cleansing and demanded an agreement that would give Kosovo independence. The reason for the bombing was cited as the killing of 45 Albanians. According to the US, these people were executed by the Serbian army, while Belgrade argued that they died in the conflict.
An important point is that the UN Security Council did not authorize this military intervention. However, NATO continued its bombing campaign, calling it a humanitarian intervention, from March 24 to June 10. As a result, bridges, chemical plants, water and electricity infrastructure, schools and cultural monuments were destroyed. The US was forced to apologize for bombing the Chinese Embassy in Belgrade, citing that the maps used for the bombing were outdated. Over 23.000 bombs and missiles were dropped within 2.5 months. The biggest loss, of course, was human lives. Additionally, the radioactive and chemical pollution that emerged after the bombing caused a serious ecological disaster. Yugoslavia disintegrated, the government changed, but this operation remains a very sensitive issue for Serbia.
Today there is little left in the national park to remind us of this dark past. It is a quiet, peaceful place, ideal for escaping the hustle and bustle of the city and being at one with nature. And the most beautiful view was waiting for us: the Ice Lake.
Spending time in nature provides great relief after the noise of city life. Hiking is also a wonderful experience. Thanks to the signs on the trail, we didn’t lose our way. Along the way, we descended into deep valleys, climbed high peaks, but in the end, we reached our destination. We could see the lake from the top. The natural color contrast created by the clay and rock layers presents an incredible view. However, there is an interesting detail: This lake is actually not natural. During the 1999 bombing, the water drainage pumps in an old quarry were damaged. As a result, the quarry started to fill with water, forming the lake we see today. In some places, its depth reaches 50 meters and the water temperature remains quite low throughout the year. Still people come here to swim and sunbathe.
To see the lake in the best way, if you look at the map, you will see three viewpoints at the top. There is one more down below. The terraces on the opposite side are also on a high hill. The path that leads closest to the lake looks like a dead end on the map, but it actually goes directly down to the lake. People spend time there, sunbathing. To get to this point, you need to walk from the village above the lake. According to the map, the distance is 1.2 kilometers, but we walked 2.8 kilometers. The elevation difference is also an important factor. The route we took had a climb of 168 meters. However, the other route is much easier and more accessible.
This lake is definitely impressive, but in general, Fruška Gora National Park is known as a unique place in terms of geological history. It is referred to as a mirror of geological history. Here, 164 fossilized animal species have been found. Archaeological sites are hidden within the forests. Moreover, it hosts 17 monasteries built between the 15th and 18th centuries. It is also an important pilgrimage center.
Serbia may not have seas, but swimming and enjoying the beach is possible. There are many spas in the country and they have thermal pools, hotels and spa centers around them. Fruška Gora National Park also has such a thermal spa center. We decided to go there. Tickets are valid all day and include all services. The entrance fee is 2,900 dinars and you can use all the facilities except for food.
The spa center is modern and beautiful. There are wide loungers, various pools and both indoor and outdoor areas. Diving into the water on a hot day is very relaxing. Moreover, this is a real thermal pool, offering a true spa experience.
