The city of Sukhothai is Thailand’s first capital, located about halfway between Bangkok and Chiang Mai. The ruins of the ancient city of Sukhothai have been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Last year we had the chance to visit this historic city.
We traveled approximately 600 km. The navigation system estimated the journey would take around seven hours, but of course, we took breaks for meals and some rest. Our destination was Sukhothai. Throughout history Thailand has been divided into various kingdoms, including Sukhothai, Ayutthaya near Bangkok and the Lanna Kingdom in Chiang Mai.
In Sukhothai the ruins of the ancient capital remain. We visited the Sukhothai Historical Park in the morning. After that, we continued our journey to Chiang Mai, covering another 300 km.
Thailand’s toll roads are not very expensive and are definitely worth the cost. Free roads usually take longer due to traffic lights, village roads and higher congestion. For instance, when traveling from Pattaya to Bangkok, we once took the free coastal road and found that it took significantly longer. That’s why we usually prefer toll roads.
When approaching a toll road you first take a ticket from a booth. At the exit, you return the ticket and make the payment. The toll fees vary by region, but the cost to Bangkok is usually around 105-120 Baht. Within Bangkok, the toll price depends on the exit you take, but it certainly saves a lot of time. And there are special lanes for pre-paid toll passes, allowing drivers to pass through without stopping. We are not entirely sure how the system works, but it looks quite practical.
Whenever we travel to Bangkok, we always use the toll road. If we’re heading somewhere else, we try to take free roads because, in most cases, the time difference is not significant. However, sometimes we accidentally take a wrong turn and end up on the toll road anyway.
If you’re going on a long journey with a child, using a car seat is a must. Safety is crucial on such trips. One of the advantages of toll roads is the absence of traffic lights and well-separated lanes. Roads in Thailand are generally wide, with four to five lanes, making the journey smoother and faster. Additionally, there are fewer heavy vehicles like trucks and trailers, which keeps traffic flowing better.
However, rest stops on toll roads are quite limited, so you need to plan your breaks in advance. As we approached the end of the toll road to Bangkok, we exited the booth and paid 105 Baht. There is an alternative route to Bangkok that bypasses the airport, but it takes longer.
Toll roads are a great time-saver. The free road follows the coastline but is packed with traffic lights and village roads. If you take a bus, the journey lasts about three hours and twenty minutes. However, if you take the airport express bus, you can reach Pattaya in one hour and forty minutes. The best option is to take the metro in Bangkok, go to the airport and transfer to the express bus. Even with waiting times, it’s a faster and more comfortable option.
After covering 200 km, we approached Ayutthaya, another former capital of Thailand and a popular tourist destination. We had been there before, so we continued our journey without stopping. Many travelers heading north choose to stay overnight here and continue the next day. However, we decided to cover a longer distance on the first day.
Across Thailand, large highways have major fuel stations like PTT Station. These stations typically include 7-Eleven or other convenience stores. While there are different stores available, 7-Eleven is usually the best choice.
Gas stations also house fast-food chains like Burger King, McDonald's and KFC, along with various Thai cafés. Amazon Coffee is a common sight along the way. That’s why finding a place to take a break is never an issue. Moreover, these stations offer free restrooms, dining areas and resting spots. Since we prefer to avoid risks with unfamiliar cafés, we usually opt for well-known places.
We stopped at McDonald's, not our usual preference, but at least it offers a reliable standard. While we generally avoid soda at home, we made an exception for the trip. Our meal included crispy chicken, two servings of fries, a burger, a Coke and cheese sticks. We paid 213 Baht, but thanks to the McDonald's app, we got one portion of fries for free. Using the app helps reduce costs slightly.
For the first time in Thailand, we found cheese sticks that were genuinely good: the cheese stretched perfectly, just as we like it. Previously, we had bought similar ones from a macro market and prepared them ourselves, but those were just a bit of cheese covered in mashed potatoes.
After finishing our meal, as always we drank our tea made from Altai herbs, which we had brought in our thermos. We found a nice rest area with rice fields in the back and the view was magnificent.
We passed around Bangkok and continued towards Ayutthaya without entering the city. There are many multi-level road intersections in and around Bangkok. These intersections can sometimes be very complicated. Lanes go to the right, left and straight ahead and if you don’t know your direction well, you’re likely to take the wrong road. We had taken a wrong turn a few times before. If you enter the wrong road, you often have to travel quite far to get back on the correct route. That’s why extra caution is essential when driving in Thailand.
Navigation is usually helpful, but it’s still important to pay attention to the road signs. Fortunately the directions are also written in English. Driving slowly is the best approach because missing some turns is very easy and the navigation system can sometimes be slightly delayed. For example, you might think the turn is ahead, but before you know it, you've already passed it.
We saw a cat on the roadside, hunting, probably for its kittens. It was sniffing around and moving carefully. Suddenly, when the birds flew up, it turned its attention elsewhere.
People in Thailand use interesting methods to transport goods. They stack three layers of cargo on small cars, but since the vehicles are lightweight, they can still move comfortably.
Google Maps suggested a route that was 8 minutes faster, so we decided to try it. But we slightly regretted it because the road was narrow, with only two lanes and surrounded by dense greenery. Moreover, there were potholes along the way, making the drive less comfortable.
Infrastructure in the area was almost non-existent, but at least the opposite lane was separated. We stopped in front of the rice fields. The view was unbelievably beautiful. We took our time enjoying it. Would I want to live here? Probably not, because it’s right next to the road and quite noisy. But it could be a great place to spend a few nights. Since we hadn't booked a hotel in advance, we might even find a place like this.
The hotel we stayed at looked quite charming from the outside. It was a bit old, but the pool was clean and the filtration system was working. Instead of going out for dinner, we decided to swim because we hadn’t enjoyed a pool in a long time. Later, we found a lovely restaurant near our hotel that served Thai cuisine. It was stylish and modern. While many places in Phuket close early, this one was among the few that stayed open even after 9 pm. We even learned that it was owned by the same person as our hotel. The prices were reasonable and the portions were large. I ordered chicken with cashews and pineapple. It was lightly fried, soft and delicious. As often seen in Thai cuisine, it had a slightly sweet taste, but it wasn’t overwhelming.
There were many European tourists here and I even suspected that the hotel owner was European. Honestly, we were surprised to see so many tourists despite it being off-season.
In the morning we started our day with a magnificent view and breakfast. They served an American breakfast.it was quite simple but tasty.
The new part of Sukhothai isn’t very interesting because a massive fire in 1968 destroyed all the buildings, which were later rebuilt. The main attraction is the Sukhothai Historical Park. We went there to buy tickets. The park is divided into five sections and entrance to each section costs 100 Baht for foreigners and 20 Baht for Thai citizens. Only cash payments are accepted. Children under 5 years old can enter for free. We only visited the central area since it has the most historical structures and we didn’t have time to explore the other sections. If you want to see the entire park, you should budget around 500 Baht per person.
The historical park is quite large, with the central area covering approximately 3 km. So, we decided to rent a two-person electric vehicle. The hourly rental fee was 150 Baht. A four-person vehicle cost 250 Baht, a six-person one was 350 Baht and a ten-person one was 550 Baht. You could also rent a vehicle with a driver if you preferred. The vehicle owner explained how to use it, gave us directions and provided a phone number in case we encountered any issues. Since we already had an electric vehicle at home, it wasn’t difficult for us to use.
Sukhothai is considered the first independent Thai state in Thailand. Previously, the region was part of the Khmer Empire. The most famous Khmer temple is Angkor Wat in Cambodia. As the Khmer people lost power over time, the Thai people began establishing their own state here. The word Sukhothai means Dawn of Happiness. Thailand’s first alphabet was also created here.
The Sukhothai Kingdom lasted only about 120-140 years. Its golden age was during the reign of King Ramkhamhaeng. However, after his death, a rapid decline began and eventually, the kingdom was taken over by Ayutthaya. The ruins of Ayutthaya can be seen near Bangkok. This UNESCO-protected park is well-maintained and offers a peaceful atmosphere. Visiting it at sunset can be particularly impressive.
According to historians, the Sukhothai Kingdom was founded in the 10th century. The temples we see today date back to that period. The area is very calm, well-organized and clean. Although there are many tourists, the park is so vast that it doesn’t feel crowded. The sound of birds creates a tranquil atmosphere, but the weather is quite hot. Be sure to bring water with you, as there are no places to buy it inside the park.
There are many European tourists here, but I think most of them prefer to spend time in coastal areas. The architectural details of the temples are fascinating. If we knew more about Thai mythology, we could better understand the intricate details we saw. One of the most famous traditions here is the Loy Krathong festival. Held in November, this festival involves people releasing small floating lanterns made of bamboo and flowers into the rivers. For those planning to visit in November, it could be a wonderful experience.
The temples are illuminated at night, making an evening visit to the park a delightful experience. Especially during sunset, the lighting creates a breathtaking view. Although the daytime can be hot, the air here is drier compared to coastal areas, so it doesn’t feel overly oppressive.
We arrived around 11 AM and while the weather was quite warm, it was still bearable. If we were in Pattaya, we wouldn’t have been able to walk outdoors for this long.
There is a large lake. I wonder if they have stocked it with fish? In Thailand, it’s common to release fish into ponds. As we moved to a new section of the park, we were glad we had rented an electric vehicle because the distances were long. There are many historical structures near the entrance, but if you want to see the important ones further away, a vehicle is a must. Alternatively, you can rent a bicycle, but given the heat, it wouldn’t be very comfortable. There are also trams that shuttle visitors around the park, stopping at designated points to pick up and drop off passengers. However, using the tram means either waiting for everyone to gather or having a limited amount of time at each stop.
The cost of the electric vehicle was 60 Baht per person, while a two-person rental was 150 Baht per hour. However, one hour wasn’t enough for us. Even though we moved at a fast pace, it took at least an hour and a half. So, we had to pay the two-hour rental fee of 300 Baht. Still, we were happy with our choice, as walking would have been enjoyable but quite exhausting in the heat.
We were allowed to climb up certain areas. Interestingly, the Buddha statues in the more remote parts of the park are very well-preserved. The small details are remarkably intact. Higher up, there is a statue with intricate details still clearly visible. This place is amazing.
There are many bird nests here and the birds lay their eggs inside them. If you’d like, you can take a feather as a souvenir.
Returning to our air-conditioned vehicle was a relief. Our tour of the park took a total of 1 hour and 40 minutes by electric car. They even gave us a slight discount on the second hour. The first hour required an upfront payment of 150 Baht, while the remaining time was calculated upon return. Since we finished slightly under two hours, the second-hour fee was slightly reduced.
That marked the end of our visit to Sukhothai. We then set off for Chiang Mai, about 300 km away.
Thank you all, see you soon, take care. 😊
