Pai is a small town in northern Thailand, near the Burmese border. A 135 km mountain road connects it to Chiang Mai and many tourists brave the journey to enjoy Pai’s stunning natural beauty. The town attracts a mix of European backpackers, yoga and meditation enthusiasts and seekers of alternative culture. During our visit, we enjoyed the mountain views, tried the traditional Northern Thai soup and breathed in the crisp mountain air. The road for cars was challenging. The inclines were steep, but the scenery was stunning: lush and green. I loved taking in the views along the way.
The road from Chiang Mai to Pai is 135 km but takes about 2.5 hours to drive because of the many curves. 762, to be exact. They call it the 762 Curve Road. There are indeed a lot of turns and some are quite dangerous. However, the road quality is excellent with smooth asphalt, lane markings and clear signage. Everything in that regard was great. There’s no need to rush here. we took our time. Along the way we encountered cows crossing the road. You need to watch out for oncoming vehicles and wandering cattle. The journey was tiring. The endless curves wore us out.
Just two minutes before reaching Pai, we came across a charming café that looked like a gingerbread house. It became popular after the movie Pai in Love. The Thai countryside views were incredible and we stopped for coffee. Finally we reached Pai and I felt dizzy, as if I’d just gotten off a long carousel ride. But we quickly adjusted to our surroundings.
The town itself isn’t particularly beautiful, but its surroundings are stunning. We arrived at our hotel and settled in. It cost 1,300 baht for one night for three people, including a child, though there wasn’t an extra bed for them. Breakfast was included. The bed was fine and they even gave us some small gifts.
There are no gas stations or shops for the entire 135 km stretch. It’s essential to fuel up and stock up on water and snacks before leaving Chiang Mai. Along the way, there are only two or three cafés and their operating hours aren’t guaranteed. Driving requires caution, preferably during the day. With so many curves, fast-driving locals, lots of trucks and cows, the journey is quite demanding. This place felt like Thailand’s version of the Altai Mountains: clean air, pine trees and mountains. There are waterfalls and geysers in the area, offering plenty of options for nature excursions.
We reached the center of Pai, where there are tourist cafés and shops. You can find burgers and European dishes, but we wanted traditional Thai food. After crossing the mountains, it was surprising to arrive in a town bustling with young people. We found a café serving Thai food. They told us local soup was 30 baht, while the tourist version was 60 baht. I had read that everything in Pai was supposed to be cheap, but overall, it felt fairly normal. Not cheaper than Sukhothai. Prices vary depending on the place.
Our meals arrived. The Northern soup came with cilantro, onions and something resembling pickles, which I couldn’t quite identify. The soup had crispy noodles on top, a signature of Northern Thai soup. We chose the chicken version, though there was also seafood, which isn’t very popular here. Our daughter loves Thai food and enjoyed everything. The soup had coconut milk, giving it a pleasant mild flavor. If you’re in the North, it’s worth trying for variety.
We spent some time by the pool. If you’re not going on excursions like visiting hot springs or other sites, there isn’t much else to do. Swimming in the pool while enjoying the view is a relaxing option. In the evening, we went to the walking street. The water wasn’t too cold. Just perfect for cooling off after a long journey. The pool was deeper than expected. After busy days, we needed some rest. There didn’t seem to be many people with kids here. Mostly young Europeans or older folks whose children had grown up. We’re young too, but we came with a child.
We headed to the city center, which transforms into a pedestrian street every evening, filled with souvenir shops and street food stalls. There are also bars, but most people eat out on the street. Despite the majority of the crowd being young Europeans, we found the atmosphere rather dull. There wasn’t anything special about it. The parties hosted by European backpackers on Phi Phi Island were much livelier and the vibe in family-friendly resorts was far more enjoyable.
We woke up to a breathtaking view of the mountains, clouds hovering over the hills and fresh air. For the first time in Thailand, we slept without air conditioning. With the windows open and the fan running, the refreshing air filled the room. This is something you appreciate only after living in Thailand for over a year, enduring the constant heat and stuffy, air-conditioned environments. The air here is phenomenal. The untouched nature feels so pristine, as if a dinosaur might emerge from the trees at any moment. This alone makes Pai worth visiting.
We headed to breakfast, which offered a decent selection: Chinese and European dishes, eggs, sausages, bread and pancakes. There was also plenty of fresh fruit and vegetables, regular bread, even baguettes, cereals, tea and coffee. Not bad for Thailand. Considering the room price, the breakfast was quite good. The view was stunning.
Initially, we had planned to return that day but felt too tired and decided to stay an extra day. We went to the reception to check availability. On Booking.com, only villas were left, but we hoped for a more affordable option on-site. After extending our stay, we planned to explore more of the local area.
We had to move to a different room, as the previous one was no longer available. The view from our first room was better since it was higher up, offering a more panoramic perspective. Nonetheless, I would still recommend this hotel for its price-to-performance ratio and the breakfast was generally satisfying.
We decided to explore the area. It’s well-maintained, with neatly trimmed lawns. We found a local attraction: a Chinese village. The village is nearby but features houses built in a distinctly Chinese style. It’s only 10-15 minutes from Pai, so very close. There are also a few viewpoints and camping options nearby. Some visitors had come specifically to camp. From above, Pai looks like a small town.
The breeze was wonderful and refreshing. We decided to try Chinese or local tea. A pot of local tea cost just 20 baht. One pot was enough, but there was a bit of a communication gap and the cups were tiny. Green tea is grown in the region and we enjoyed our tea while taking in the view. The tea had a fruity note in its aroma, which was unexpected for green tea but delightful overall.
Pai and its surroundings offer beautiful nature: mountains, forests, a mountain river and geysers. Being near the Burmese border in Northern Thailand was an interesting experience. The fresh air and the scenery make it feel like a completely different Thailand. However, in our opinion, if you’re coming from another country with fresh air and mountains, spending your valuable vacation days in Pai to see what you might already have at home may not be worthwhile.
After all, most people come to Thailand for the sea, palm trees, sand and coconuts. The laid-back, hippie vibe often described online didn’t resonate with us in Pai. While there are many young backpackers hanging out here, we found the evenings a bit boring.
That said if you’ve been living in Thailand for over a year and are tired of the relentless heat, then Northern Thailand, including Pai, is amazing. Just 10 minutes uphill from Pai, the air was pristine and the smell of freshly cut grass was incredible. If you want to experience this, then Pa or at least Chiang Mai is worth visiting to breathe in the fresh air and take in the scenery.
For those living in Thailand, visiting as many regions as possible is essential to gain a more comprehensive understanding of the country.
This concludes our post about Pai. The next day, we returned to Chiang Mai and then to our home in Pattaya.