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PERFECT CYPRUS ROAD TRIP ITINERARY!
"To them, you are like an old suitcase without handles: pretty much unusable, but its a pity to get rid of you!" - told one middle-aged Lithuanian tourist to my dad. It has been a while since @Kamile and I traveled with a companion for the last time. My wife, my father Gintas and I: no strict schedule, only good mood ant the road ahead of us! In 7 days we circled the Greek part of the island twice so it is safe to say that we have enough experience to offer you a perfect Cyprus road trip itinerary!
PAPHOS - THE BIRTHPLACE OF APHRODITE?
Paphos is a small resort town in the southwest of the island of Cyprus. It is best known for its snow-white houses and ancient legends about gods and goddesses. According to one of those legends, Aphrodite, the goddess of love and beauty, was born here.
Another interesting fact is that two thousand years ago, the Romans mercilessly tormented St. Paul, who spread the Christian faith in a land where Christianity was not desired. Interesting times indeed! Luckily nowadays the residents of Cyprus are far more hospitable to their guests!
Is Cyprus safe to visit? What is the currency used there? What should you know about the differences between the Northern and Southern parts of Cyprus? What are the most popular things to do and places to see while exploring Cyprus for the first time?
How much does car rental cost and what is the best car rental office in Paphos? Is it difficult to drive on the left side of the road when you are used to driving on the opposite one? These are only some of the questions we had before the start of the road trip.
"FOOL'S FEE" - SOONER OR LATER EVERYBODY PAYS IT!
As some of you may know, I am from Lithuania. Despite the fact, the current population of Lithuania is only 2.79 million, it has one of the oldest languages in the whole wide world. Since the beginning of time, we had a very special term "durniaus mokestis", which basically means "fool's fee".
Paphos International Airport greeted us with unexpected news. It turned out that all the bus drivers in the city had gone mad :D. What happened was they decided to go on a strike for a whole week. Actually, such a thing is not too uncommon in the Southern part of Cyprus.
A friendly local guy warned us that all the drivers were at home drinking beer and watching TV. There was no point in waiting for the bus. "If you decide to wait anyway, take care of your water supplies as you might have to sit down on a bench till the next week."
One taxi driver agreed to make a 10€ discount for the trip to the town center. It took a while to realize that we still overpaid at least twice. Long story short, when somebody gets scammed or pays for something multiple times more than it is worth and still thinks it was a damn good deal we say that the person pays "the fool's fee".
WHERE TO STAY: ACCOMMODATION IN PAPHOS
Empty streets were a sign of a decline in tourism. We heard that Paphos ranks among the best resorts in Cyprus and only 20% of hotels and guest houses are occupied during the cold season. Great news for budget travelers like ourselves. It makes it easier to haggle.
Most of the other tourists were from Russia and England. Strong Australian accent helped to recognize a few Aussies too. Despite the fact it was a sunny day, none of them were swimming in the Mediterranean Sea. I guess the water was too cold by their standards.
The pleasant odor of the sea and warm sunlight encouraged us to enjoy the moment in one of numerous cafes and restaurants. However, it seemed wise to resist such temptations as we still had some work to do. It was about time to find a place to spend the night.
Using "Booking.com" would have been the easiest way, but where would be the challenge then? Going from door to door looked like the right way to do it so this is how we got to „Daphne Hotel Apartments“. My guess is it's one of the most popular hotels on the island as it was fully booked in the middle of the winter.
Fortunately, „Millenium Apartments“ had something to offer. Located about 2.1km from the center of Paphos, „Millenium Apartments“ was a nice tiny hotel with modest rooms. Our apartment had a microscopic kitchen too. Possibility to cook the buckwheat porridge with butter for the dinner instead of going to one of many expensive restaurants helped to save a few bucks.
Keeping our expenses low was pretty important as it was our second trip abroad in one month. Check out "7 days in Jordan: How to travel if you are poor" if you have not done it yet. Where did we get the buckwheat in Paphos? Cyprus is full of Russian-owned shops where you can get as much Eastern European kind of food as you desire.
There is one thing that a road trip can not happen without. Yes, ladies and gentlemen, it's a car! My young blood forced me to start the trip first thing in the morning. My father, on the other hand, expressed his wish to see a few tourist attractions before we hit the road. The wish of the elder overcame my youthful vigor and we ended up exploring historical and natural riches of Paphos.
WHAT TO SEE IN PAPHOS: TOURIST ATTRACTIONS
Paphos Castle. Paphos fort or Paphos castle is located at the Kato Paphos harbor. Some people say that it is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Paphos, but I must admit that I have no idea why... It is made of large stones and has almost no windows. Sure, it has some history behind it, but from the architectural point of view, the Paphos Castle looks a bit depressing. On the other hand, it was built for defensive purposes and not for fascinating fat and lazy tourists by its beauty!
Kato Paphos Archeology Park. Most of the remnants of Kato Paphos Archeology Park are from the Roman era. I have no doubt some history enthusiasts and professional photographers could spend hours and hours exploring every single stone in this magical place. Forgive me those who disagree but in my respectful opinion, Kato Paphos Archeology Park is far more interesting than the overpraised Paphos Castle.
Tombs of the Kings. When I first read the name of this UNESCO archeological site I thought these were actual tombs of the kings. How naive was that? According to some sources, Tombs of the Kings once served as a burial site for Paphitic aristocrats. However, no kings were in fact buried here! Please, do not ask me what was the price of the entrance ticket... I was never known for having a good memory. All I do remember is the interest in my Dad's eyes. I am quite sure he felt like Indiana Jones while exploring this truly unique place!
POTENTIALLY, THE BEST CAR RENTAL OFFICE IN CYPRUS!
How do you find the best car rental office in Paphos or even on all island? In the next couple of minutes, I will tell you how we found one and why I dare to claim that it's the best. Be warned! You might not believe how easy it can be to rent a car in Cyprus without spending a fortune if you know the right place!
First of all, in order to find the best option, you must decide what are your priorities. Are you a rich spoiled lady or a budget traveler? If you do not have a need to count your money and can't live without luxury and comfort, my advice might not bring you anything useful. If you value decent pricing and simplicity of the car rental procedure, I guess I could spare a few tips!
The main problem is, most of the car rental offices in Cyprus will ask you for a credit card deposit and according to some reviews, it might take long after the trip to get it back. Like it would not be enough, in the case of an accident, sorting things out with big car rental companies might be quite a bit of a challenge. Worry not! I know what to do!
All you have to do is find a small family-owned car rental office with great Google Reviews. At least that's what we did. In my opinion, "Thrasos Paphos Car Hire" might be the best car rental office in Paphos or even in all Cyprus. You don't believe me? This is why...
Firstly, the owner is a super nice guy, despite the fact he smokes more than a chimney! Secondly, they have some great offers for budget travelers. Lastly, they do not ask for a deposit and according to some Google Reviews, the owner stays calm and helpful even in the worst case of a car accident! Yes, their office is smaller than a matchbox. So what? For 6 days we paid only 120€.
As you can see in the picture above, this kind of money was enough to get a beautiful "Mazda Demio" with a 1.2l engine and automatic gearbox. I believe it was the second cheapest option as renting the same kind of car with a mechanical one would have been a bit cheaper, but since I did not have any previous experience driving on the "wrong side" of the road and switching gears with my left hand, it was nice to have an automatic one.
TIME TO HIT THE ROAD!
"Stay on the left side! Whatever you do, just stay on the left side..." - I repeated to myself loudly in the first few hours of the road trip. The first thing we had to do was decide which way to go. Heading east looked wise at it was the shortest way out of Paphos. It meant that our around-the-island route was going to be clockwise...
If someone asked me to describe that part of the island I would probably say - "Wast banana plantations and white similar-looking private houses everywhere you look." The first thing on our bucket list was the so-called ”Baths of Aphrodite”. Something special? Not really. However, those who decide to hike up the hill next to it will see some spectacular scenery!
It is amazing traveling sets you free from some invisible chains that encapture us in our everyday life. On the other hand, it might be more like an illusion. Those chains are so-called egregors that wait for us till we get back and once you do - imprison us once again. However, it is always nice to feel the absence of excessive weight on your shoulders at least for a little while...
WHERE TO STAY IN THE NORTHWEST OF CYPRUS?
It is funny to remember how my Dad and I felt like some kind of heroes of the 'left-side-driving world'. Being able to do it with only one hand on the steering wheel already felt like an exceptional achievement. I bet that when locals looked at us, all they could see was some ordinary tourists driving a funny looking vehicle with red license plates and disturbing the traffic by moving in a pathetic speed of a turtle...
"We should have some rest," - my father said and we agreed to spend the night in Pomos. What can I say? It's a lovely coastal town with a charming Orthodox church in the middle. I guess this town might look like true heaven for retired citizens... At least in the winter season... At this time of the year, most of the guest houses in Pomos are closed until spring. However, we were able to find one that was open. For obvious reasons, it was super affordable...
It was a bit strange to look for accommodation when the sun was still high up in the sky. However, when you are in Cyprus you must not forget it's not the biggest island in the world. This is why it seemed wise to hold the horses and enjoy life in a very calm way... The host of „A. A. Michael Apartments“ provided us with a basket full of freshly-picked oranges...
UNFORGETTABLE WAY TO THE KYKKOS MONASTERY!
It is not a secret that my imaginary picture of Cyprus for years was very limited. White houses and sandy hills in the area around Paphos fit that picture well, Cyprus way more than that. This is something I realized while heading towards the famous Kykkos Monastery.
In the first half an hour the landscape changed dramatically. Less than 60km from Pomos to the monastery happened to be a true challenge. It is not a surprise that it took us almost 2 hours to get there since the narrow snake-like road was covered with countless pieces of rocks and other obstacles. This is why most of the locals own SUVs.
Multiple wild goats looked amazingly comfortable in this kind of environment. As comfortable as I feel in the snowy plains of Northern Lithuania during cold winter months. By the way, snow is not something that we had this particular winter as it was more like a mixture of late autumn and early spring. Who knows, maybe one day we will start growing bananas too...
THE KYKKOS MONASTERY: A TRUE JUEL OF ORTHODOX ARCHITECTURE!
According to visitcyprus.com, the Monastery of Kykkos is the wealthiest and most lavish on the island. I can not disagree as it was the only one I have seen. Located in the mountainous region of Marathasa Valley, at an altitude of 1.318 meters, the Monastery of Kykos is a classic and very well preserved Orthodox building.
Many monks are always present, eager to serve and help the hundreds of visitors, who come from all the parts of the Orthodox world to pray to the Virgin of Kykkos. I'm not a huge expert in the history of it, so if you need some more info, my advice would be to check out this article on tripadvisor.com.
What is the difference between Orthodox and Catholic monasteries? I would say all of them are different so it would be challenging to give a simple answer, but this particular one had some kind of mystical aura surrounding it. If we considered Cyprus to be a living organism I'd say The Kykkos Monastery felt like a true heart of the island.
THE MIGHTY MOUNT OLYMPUS!
Some of you might say,- "You dumb peasant! The famous Mount Olympus is in Greece!" That would be partially correct. The legendary Mount Olympus, the home of Hera and Zeus, the highest mountain in Greece, is located in... Greece [how unexpected]. However, there is another mountain sharing the same name. The second one is located in central Cyprus!
What are the differences between these two? I will reveal only one! The first one is about 2918 m high, the second one - only 1952 m high. Once we reached it Kamile said,- "We came to Cyprus to escape the snow, but it looks like it follows us wherever we go!" It is important to mention there is a military base on the top of it, but some people said it is possible to reach some kind of viewpoint. Maybe, maybe not! We did not try!
Winter days are short almost wherever you go. Cyprus is not an exception. Our next stop had to be in Nicosia - the largest city, capital, and seat of government of the island of Cyprus. Once we reached it it was already evening so it seemed a good idea to spend a night in Larnaka and get back in the morning. We had no idea what waited for us the next day!
AROUND THE ISLAND FOR THE SECOND TIME!
"I must be dreaming," - I kept repeating once my pour head was hit by a realization that I left my jacket and passport with it at „A. A. Michael Apartments“. Kamile chose to stay in Larnaka while my Dad and I headed back to Pomos. It will sound strange, but the longest route happened to be the most time-efficient one. This is how we began our journey around the Greek part of Cyprus for the second time!
The first part of the trip was pretty much straight forward. We reached Paphos before the sunrise. To turn this semi-negative experience into a truly positive one, we decided to choose a different route and take advantage of this opportunity to explore the island even more than we intended to do in the first place.
The owner of „A. A. Michael Apartments“ seemed surprised to see us. My jacket and passport were in the same spot where I left them. The funny thing is I found out that I had left one of my T-shirts too. What can I say? I am not used to having so much stuff in my travels. Sometimes I find all this surplus of things a bit energy-draining.
The second part of the trip was more exciting. We even tried to get to the Turkish side of the island. It is like another country with its own rules so it is not that easy. First of all, you have to buy some kind of extra insurance. The second thing - you must have a signed agreement that the owner of your car lets you take it to the other side of the border. This permission was something that we did not have.
Despite the fact we failed to get to the so-called Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus, we were lucky enough to see it from far away. A few hour ride along the border was super intense. As you already know, we had the tiniest car on Planet Earth which was not suitable for such extreme conditions: steep mountain roads and all kinds of obstacles. Luckily, we succeeded to do it!
My father's remarkable eyes of a farmer noticed that the Northeastern part of the Greek part of Cyprus was way more suitable for farming. You won't see too many foreigners on that part of the island. It might be one of the reasons why locals do not take too much care of the environment. Another example of how colorful and different a medium-sized island might be. Once we got back, my Dad, Kamile and I finished the day by exploring Larnaka!
NICOSIA: WHY IS CYPRUS DIVIDED?
As some of you already know, Nicosia is the capital city of Cyprus. You might be wondering - "Which Cyprus: The Republic of Cyprus or the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus?" The answer is BOTH! As strange as it may sound, Nicosia is the only divided capital city in the whole wide world. I guess I could say that the Southern part of Nicosia is ruled by the Greek part of Cyprus, while the Northern part is a part of the so-called Turkish Cyprus.
The old town of Nicosia has a form of a star. In the center of it, there is located the main border crossing which [I guess] is adapted only for pedestrians. For EU residents there is no need to have a passport to get to the other side of the border as the ID card is enough. Officers working there seemed pretty laid back. The procedure took only a couple of minutes. I'm not a huge expert in this particular field. For this reason, I am sharing this video, created by "Geography Now".
This guy truly knows how to provide information in a very concise form. I can only comment on things that I have seen with my own eyes. What is the difference between the Greek and the Turkish side of Nicosia? There are actually many. The Southern one is more kind of Western while the Northern one has preserved more of its old day's authenticity. However, some parts of the Turkish side of Nicosia has a feeling of the need for investments.
WHITE ROCKS ON THE GOVERNOR'S BEACH!
The 7-day Cyprus road trip was coming to an end. There was one more thing that I was dying to do. Yes, I am talking about swimming in the Mediterranean Sea! In this part of the year, you won't see many swimmers in Cyprus. The water is considered to be too cold. Nevertheless, for us Lithuanians, it was an equivalent of the temperature in the Baltic Sea in mid-summer. Those who are not allergic to Lithuanian language might want to check THIS out.
LIMASSOL ZOO
My precious experience of the past few years shows that there is only one thing in the world that is powerful enough to make Kamile smile from ear to ear, even on the darkest day. Yes, I am talking about cute animals. Limassol Zoo is a great place to lift your girlfriend's mood. Also, it's a great excuse to visit Limassol, which is Cyprus's second-largest city.
ANCIENT RUINS OF KOURION
Kourion or Curium is one of the most impressive historical sites that I have seen during this trip. According to triphistoric.com, Kourion is containing mostly Ancient Roman and Byzantine ruins. The first solid town was built here in the 13th century BC. You are not a huge fan of history and dry facts? Consider stopping by for a few Instagram-friendly shots then...
THE ROCK OF APHRODITE
Last but not least, we came to the Rock of Aphrodite! Is it as impressive as it is shown in hundreds of magazines and private travel blogs? Is it realistic enough to expect it to be Instagram-friendly AF? Yes, it is! However, if you desire to get the perfect shot it might be useful to have a better camera than mine and some more patience than we had...:D [Please, remember to evaluate the position of the sun when taking pictures or the face might be too dark]...
ROAD TRIP AROUND CYPRUS: IS IT WORTH IT?
Yes and No! "How is it possible," - you may ask. For some, Cyprus may look incredibly interesting: history lovers, religious travelers, etc. For others, during the cold season it may seem too calm and silent. For me, an important nuance that determined the level of joy of the trip was an opportunity to travel with very special people. My father has an exceptional sense of humor and I feel like I still got much to learn if I want to surpass him in this particular field! I must evolve! You know how they say,- "if your wife no longer laughs at your jokes, there is a slight chance she will start laughing at someone else's!" :DDD
Yours,
Tautvydas!
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