There is no doubt that time, despite the powerful force with which it erodes and topples the pride of humankind, is solely responsible for the fact that the immeasurable cultural heritage bequeathed to us by our ancestors is, in many cases, damaged and affected by incompetence. Less sensible, but also more superfluous when it comes to decision-making, there were certain moments in history when architects and builders forgot that charismatic sacred sense that animated medieval architecture, transforming true masterpieces into soulless and meaningless places, once their original character was lost.
Today, at this special moment when we rediscover the magnificent historical, artistic, and cultural heritage that characterizes Alto Campoo, the border between the mysteries of Northern Spain and the boundless grandeur of the Castilian Plateau, we remember, with regret and as an example of our assertions, the church of Santa María de Villacantid. This 12th-century building, a time when Europe witnessed the cultural phenomenon of the Courts of Love and the troubadours, has been ruined and poorly restored, its ruined state resounding within us with anger and frustration.
Some sources suggest that it may have originally been a Templar construction, perhaps the church belonging to a monastery of warrior-monks, which local traditions place between Villacantid and the neighboring town of Suano. Suano is famous because, since medieval times, it has been a meeting place for medieval stonemasons, who are still commemorated in a square that bears their name: Plaza de los Canteros (Square of the Stonemasons).
Despite the complete and horribly fragmented state of its original narrative, which formed part of that same medieval story that endured through time, and despite the fact that the church of Santa María de Villacantid has now become a Romanesque Interpretation Center in the region, details of that illustrated chronicle can still be seen in the corbels and capitals, helping us to understand both the grandeur and the darkness of that medieval era.
We have, for example, the figure of the mediator between knights, quite popular, in fact, in the Romanesque art of Cantabria; lions and griffins facing each other; the presence of musicians and dancers, very common, moreover, in educational motifs that also spread to other regions of Spain; erotic allusions, which have never been lacking, especially in the Romanesque architecture of this land; and of course, foliate motifs, which, in addition to paying homage to the bountiful surroundings, soothe and bring peace to the eyes, which, in that era, required the utmost concentration to avoid missing a single detail.
The surrounding area, moreover, couldn't be more captivating, located near places like Valderredible, a vast expanse of land shared with Palencia and Burgos. Here, the cave churches and hermitages stand out, nestled amidst valleys and shadowy forests that undoubtedly awaken in the traveler a thirst for mystery and adventure. Hiking its intricate trails always becomes a unique exploration of the most improbable places within the most incredible landscapes.
Fragments, in short, of a history that, even after centuries, continues to offer us the beauty and mystery of a tale that, a precursor to modern marketing, can teach us fascinating lessons through silence and meditation.
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