The square is large and empty. The sun burns mercilessly over Louisiana, and even Baton Rouge is on the verge of heatstroke on this day. The majestic Mississippi flows just a few feet away, but even the great river seems to have no desire to provide any cooling. However, there is salvation in Louisiana's capital, which, upon closer inspection, reveals itself to be a fascinating blend of Southern flair, historical depth, and industrial dynamism.
But first, get out of the sun. The steps to the Louisiana State Capitol are steep and numerous - one for each U.S. state. At the top of the massive door hangs an invitation. This parliament, housed in a towering skyscraper, is open to every visitor. A quick registration with the friendly ladies at the visitor's desk, a brief briefing, and suddenly the tourist is standing in the inner sanctum of Louisiana's democracy.
In Germany, it would take weeks to obtain permission to enter a parliament. In this city on the mighty Mississippi River, whose name "Red Stick" derives from the red stakes used by Native Americans to mark their hunting grounds, everyone who happens to be nearby is welcome.
The Louisiana State Capitol: A Monument to History
The Louisiana State Capitol is an impressive Art Deco building and, at 137 meters, the tallest capitol building in the United States. It was built in 1932 under Governor Huey P. Long, a controversial but influential figure. The opulent entrance hall captivates with marble walls and murals depicting Louisiana's history.
A tour of the House of Representatives and Senate reveals traces of Long's political legacy, including the spot where Long was assassinated in 1935. The former traveling salesman of books and canned goods, just 42 years old, was planning his own run for president in the 1936 election against the popular Franklin D. Roosevelt.
The murder on the floor
This never happened: His murderer, physician Carl Austin Weiss, was the son-in-law of Judge and Long opponent Benjamin Pavy, whose impeachment Long had pushed for on that very day for political reasons. The exact purpose of the attack was never revealed, as Weiss was shot dead by police officers and Long's bodyguards immediately after firing the fatal shot.
A memorial plaque today commemorates the murder in the legislature. The story of the crime is also told here, directly in front of the entrances to the two parliamentary chambers.
From the visitor center, the elevator takes you to the observation deck on the 34th floor. At the top, a breathtaking view opens up: The Mississippi River winds its way through the city like a silver ribbon, flanked by green banks and the Baton Rouge skyline.
To the south stretch the industrial areas - a network of refineries and chemical plants that reflect the economic boom of the 1950s and 1960s. The stretch of the river, known as "Cancer Alley" due to the high density of chemical companies, shows the downside of progress. The smokestacks still smoke today. Yet the expanse of the river and the modernized city still exude a unique beauty.
The USS Kidd: A Floating Memorial
Not too far from here is another landmark. On the banks of the Mississippi, near downtown, lies the USS Kidd, a Fletcher-class destroyer from World War II, now a National Historic Landmark. The ship, named after Admiral Isaac C. Kidd, who died at Pearl Harbor in 1941, is a living museum, surrounded by other military artifacts. The USS Kidd served in the Pacific, survived kamikaze attacks, and later saw action in Korea and during the Cold War. Since 1982, it has been moored in Baton Rouge as part of the USS Kidd Veterans Museum.
The ship provides insights into the cramped conditions of the crew quarters and the might of the gun emplacements. The museum features artifacts, models, and stories from Louisiana's veterans, bringing the sacrifices and courage of the war years to life. Volunteers, including veterans, speak of the ship's significance as a symbol of the region's resilience. The visit is not only educational but also emotional - a tribute to all those who served their homeland and freedom.
Walk Along the Mississippi: Nature and History
A relaxing walk along the Mississippi Riverfront follows a scenic path along the top of the levee, offering views of the river and the skyline. The sunset bathes the river in golden light, while cargo ships drift leisurely by - a sign of the Port of Greater Baton Rouge, the river's northernmost deep-water port. Benches invite you to linger, and the peaceful hustle and bustle of joggers, families, and tourists characterize the atmosphere. The river, once the lifeline of the plantation economy, connects past and present.
The Modernization of the Southern Lady
Baton Rouge has evolved from a tranquil southern town into a vibrant metropolis with 220,000 residents. The petrochemical industry brought a boom in the 1950s that caused the city to grow, moving away from its historic center.
Since the 1990s, government and businesses have returned, accompanied by a construction boom with multi-million-dollar projects that improve the quality of life. The "Hollywood South" initiative has given rise to a film industry, and the Celtic Media Center is an example of this transformation. Louisiana State University (LSU), a cultural and athletic center, attracts students and fans, especially to the massive Tiger Stadium.
Nevertheless, the city retains its charm: The Spanish Town district, with its colorful houses and the annual Mardi Gras parade, showcases a vibrant, diverse community. The downtown area has pubs and bars, chic restaurants, and small shops.
Great Sons and Daughters
Baton Rouge has produced important personalities. In addition to Huey P. Long, nicknamed "Kingfish," musician Tab Benoit is known for his blues-infused Cajun music. Architect John Desmond designed iconic buildings such as the Louisiana Arts and Sciences Center.
Role in the Civil War
During the American Civil War (1861–1865), Baton Rouge was strategically important due to its location on the Mississippi River. In 1862, the city was captured by the Union without a fight. The Old State Capitol, a neo-Gothic masterpiece, was damaged by fire during the war but later restored.
Today, it is a museum whose stained-glass dome and exhibits bring Louisiana's political history, including the war, to life. Baton Rouge was part of the Confederacy, but the rapid occupation by the Union minimized direct fighting in the city.
Mixed Opposites
Baton Rouge combines opposites: history and modernity, nature and industry, Southern charm and global change. From the majestic State Capitol to the historic USS Kidd to the peaceful Mississippi Riverfront, the city offers a multifaceted experience. Its great sons and daughters, its role in the Civil War, and its modernization showcase a city that preserves its past and embraces the future.