After landing on an island and spending some time in its capital Funchal, it was time to discover more of the island. If you missed the first part of my adventures on the island, check this out here.
Madeira is a relatively small island, roughly 57 km long and 22 km. You can drive around the island pretty much in one day. I decided to play Vasco da Gama (the famous Portuguese sailor) and discover Madeira thoroughly by highways. đ And yes, this island is where Churchill chilled and nuns were hiding from the pirates but not at the same time.
Following the Coast: From Fishing Villages to Skywalks
I started my journey from Funchal by following the southern coastline, letting the Atlantic guide my way. The first stop was Câmara de Lobos, a colorful fishing village that looks like it was painted by hand.
Interestingly, this place once inspired Winston Churchill himself. He visited Madeira in 1950. He was not prime minister anymore. He had lost the 1945 elections and was out of office literally. Nowadays when people put their âout of officeâ they normally go to unwind and enjoy holidays. Guess what?! Thatâs exactly what Winston did. Exhausted from World War II and dealing with depression he went to Madeira as a (wellness) retreat. The island had a reputation as a healing island with a mild climate, clean air. What else do you need for rest? Back then and now!
During his stay in Madeira, he came here to paint. Today, a statue of him still stands, brush in hand, reminding visitors that even world leaders sometimes just want to sit down and admire a beautiful view.
From there, I continued to the West toward Cabo GirĂŁo Skywalk, one of the highest sea cliffs in Europe. It is relatively newly opened (in 2012) glass floor where you can admire (or die from fear) all the way to the ocean. Just so you understand, you are standing on almost 600 m above sea level with a glass floor under your feet and you see the cliffs and ocean. Since there is a crowd of tourist you do not really get a feeling of âI am scaredâ because you see a lot of feet around you.
From Sunshine to Waterfalls: Crossing Madeiraâs Climate Zones
After a short stop in Ribeira Brava, I left the coast behind and started climbing into the mountains. Within minutes, the climate changed drastically. The warm ocean air disappeared, and the temperature dropped fast.
Down by the sea, it had been around 20 degrees. Up at 1,400 meters, it was barely 8. Suddenly, Madeira felt like the Netherlands in winter... đ Dull, gloomy and depressingâŚ
The scenery transformed just as quickly. Green valleys slowly turned into misty peaks. Sunny beaches were replaced by clouds, wind, and silence. It was one of those moments that makes you realize how unbelievably diverse this small island really is.
Later, I continued toward Seixal and SĂŁo Vicente on the northern coast. Along the way, waterfalls appeared everywhere, sliding down steep cliffs and flowing straight into the Atlantic. It felt wild and untouched, like you were watching National Geographic live with your own eyes.
This side of Madeira receives much more rain than the south, and over centuries, locals learned how to work with it. They built an impressive system of water channels called levadas, which carry water from the rainy north to the drier parts of the island. These narrow canals keep farms alive and landscapes green. Without them, much of Madeira simply would not function.
Through Tunnels and Time
While driving across the island, I passed through countless tunnels. Madeira has more than 60 kilometers of tunnels, carved through volcanic rock. The longest one is over 1,300 meters long. Some sections took years to build because the rock is mostly basalt, one of the hardest volcanic rocks to drill through. In total, it took more than 40 years to complete this system. Yet without these tunnels, traveling around Madeira would still take hours longer.
Into the Valley of the Nuns
On my next adventure, I turned away from the coast and headed deep into the mountains, toward Curral das Freiras, Portuguese for the Valley of the Nuns. Getting there took some of the best of my driving skills. Picture this: mountains, turns with steep mountains on the one hand and an abyss on the other and yes you still get oncoming traffic. That was the moment where jokes about âwomen behind the steering wheelâ would not be appreciated. After 30 minutes steep drive to somewhere in the middle of mountains, I came to a small village in the valley between the mountains.
Meanwhile, let me get you back to the 16th century. Back then Madeira was already an important Portuguese island. It was wealthy because of sugar production and trade routes. Where there is money, ships, and trade⌠pirates usually follow.
At that time, North African and European pirates frequently attacked Madeiraâs coast. They raided villages, kidnapped people, and demanded ransom. So, life near the sea was dangerous. In 1566, Madeira was attacked by French pirates. This was one of the worst attacks in the islandâs history. Funchal was burned down, residents kidnapped and convents attacked. That was the main reason why nuns fled the capital. Surrounded by steep cliffs, the valley offered protection and isolation. For centuries, it could only be reached on foot.
Today, a tunnel connects it to the outside world, but the sense of isolation remains. Standing there, surrounded by mountains, I understood why people once chose this place to hide. It feels peaceful. Almost sacred.
The valley is also famous for chestnut trees, and locals use them in everything: cakes, liqueurs, chocolate, and traditional desserts. Nowadays it is more like a tourist trap and a tribute to the old days.
Did you know: In old Europe, chestnuts were often called âthe bread of the poorâ because, in isolated mountain communities like the Valley of the Nuns, they replaced wheat and became a basic source of daily energy.
Where next?
After a long day of driving, mountains, tunnels, and history, I headed back to Funchal, dreaming only about rest and a quiet swim.
Little did I know that âa calm swimâ would turn into me floating in the open Atlantic, surrounded by volcanic lava rocks. And yes, Iâm still alive and kicking.
If you want to know how âlava-cooked ocean swimmingâ became one of my favorite memories, Part 3 is comingÂ