A few days ago I came across some photos that I took about a year ago, the last time I visited my parents in New Zealand. Then I remembered my idea to write a post about an old Maori story of how the town of Whakatane got its name. But somehow I completely forgot about it, until I saw this folder with the photos I had saved just for this purpose. So, since it is never too late, here is the story of the Mātaatua waka and the people who came on it.
History is Alive
For being such a small town (about 15,000 people), there are plenty of stories around Whakatane going back to before the Europeans arrived. There is Toi's Pa on the hills, overlooking today's settlement, Irakewa Rock in the middle of the town, and not lastly the authentic replica of the Mātaatua waka, the voyaging canoe that Polynesians used to explore and settle the islands of the Pacific.
The skillfully reconstructed Mātaatua is far from being merely a display item under the equally fancy protective roof. Besides being a piece of folk art, it is a functional boat, used to teach contemporary Maori the ancient art of seafaring, thereby keeping this aspect of culture alive.
Journeying Across the Pacific Ocean
According to tradition, the Mātaatua was one of several waka (canoes) that Polynesian people came on to settle New Zealand. The Mātaatua arrived about 700 years ago, more than two centuries after the first Maori had arrived in the region. The journey started in the ancient homeland of the Polynesians, Hawaiki, known as Hawaii today. The waka was captained by a chief named Toroa, and among the crew were his brother Puhi, his sister Muriwai, his son Ruaihona, and his daughter Wairaka. The mission of the trip was to bring sweet potatoes to New Zealand.
A Strong Female Figure
As the story goes, when the Mātaatua arrived where the Whakatane river meets the ocean, the men went ashore, leaving the women in charge of the waka, anchored safely by the mouth of the river. Suddenly the anchor came loose and the current started pushing the canoe back out toward the ocean. Since women were forbidden to use paddles to handle the vessel, it looked like the waka would be lost. But then Wairaka picked up a paddle saying: "'Kia Whakatāne au i ahau' – I will act the part of a man!" Sure, she may have defied a taboo, but she is also recognized for saving the waka with all the women and children on it. This brave cry is where the name of the river, and thus the name of the town originated from. Today a statue commemorates her at the mouth of the river.
Muriwai's Cave
Only a short walk from the Mātaatua is a small cave in the hillside, known as Muriwai's Cave. Chief Toroa's sister and Wairaka's aunt is remembered for settling in various points in the area, and founding the Whakatōhea tribe, before occupying the cave, where she eventually died. Since she is credited for having the second sight, the cave was subsequently considered sacred, until the tapu was lifted in 1963.
Tradition and History Shaping Today's Culture
These stories of Toroa and his family are by no means mere legends. They are considered historical accounts, albeit orally transmitted. This becomes particularly relevant in the importance Maori people place on their ancestry, tracing back their origins through the generations back to a particular person who arrived on any of the waka, in this case the Mātaatua. These include the members of the following tribes: Ngāi Tūhoe, Ngāti Awa, Te Whakatōhea, Te Whānau-ā-Apanui, Ngāpuhi, Ngāi Te Rangi, Ngāti Pūkenga.
Come and Visit Whakatane!
So when you're in New Zealand, do stop by and check out this pleasant little town. As you can see, in spite of its modest size, it is literally bursting with ancient stories. If you liked this post, why don't you check out the rest of my series about the area, titled The Wonders of Whakatane.