I actually had to spend some time away in order to notice: there is actually a real pretty little neighborhood just next to where I live! Tourists may came from far and wide to see stereotypical colonial buildings between narrow little streets, and if these sites happen to be somewhat famous, they may even crowd out all the locals, except for those who are trying to sell them overpriced souvenirs made in China. Welcome the mass-tourist experience!
Not So in the Tacubaya Antigua!
Looking at the map of my neighborhood of San Miguel Chapultepec, you will doubtlessly notice a triangle on its southern tip, marked by the streets of Av. Parque Lira, Av. Jalisco, and Agustín Vicente Eguía. Since this is so close to my house it is not surprising that I have posted extensively about the things you can find in this area. For example, the bike shop where I built my bamboo bike is here, as are various murals, such as this or this one. Recently I even posted about a cool taxi parked here.
But until now I have never even thought much about the idyllic appearance of the streets and the buildings of this small corner of the city. The architectural style of the buildings suggest that this neighborhood had probably been already in existence at least 200 years ago, back when the surrounding area was still fields, or something.
Streets Clearly too Narrow for Traffic
One of the cool features of this triangle are its narrow streets. Sure, you can make a car fit through, even a smaller truck. But that's going to be a very tight fit, so you can forget about going faster than a pedestrian. For this reason, the whole area is barely frequented by outside traffic. Sure, exceptions only prove the rule, but that also means that most often you can be certain to walk in the middle of the street without the danger of being run over.
How Mexicans Used to Live
The other thing I kept noticing was the style of the buildings, with their huge, fortress-like walls, tall ceilings, and massive gates. While they may appear inefficient in terms of the use of space, they most certainly were of the upper-middle classes, and their inhabitants were (or still are) relatively well off. By now, many of the buildings are being used as offices, dental surgeries, or fancy catering services.
Behind the Ornate Facades...
... well, we can only speculate what is or was to be found. Typically, while Mexicans love to host guests in their very accommodating and hospitable way, at the same time there is a common desire to shield themselves from the outside world. Blame it on the ratas de dos patas (= two-legged rats), but the walls and barbed-wire supposedly do serve a practical purpose. Behind them, however, there is usually a lush garden, a beautiful patio, and a comfortable veranda running around it. However, even the bars on the windows are quite ornate, adding a touch of beauty to a necessary, though maybe less desirable, feature.
Please Come and Check it Out!
I understand, touristy spots have their rightful place among sites that want to be visited. You simply can't come to Mexico City without visiting the Zócalo in the center, or walking along Paseo de la Reforma. However, once you are tired of the crowds, and want to see something prettier than modern high-rise apartments, the Old Tacubaya may just be the thing for you. And yes, even though it is probably not listed in tourist guides, there are cafés and restaurants here, and just next to this small triangle there is the Lira Park to its West, or the modern Tacubaya to its South, which is a huge bustle of vendors, food stalls, three metro lines, and two markets.
