After an exciting boat trip we headed towards the castle. On the forest path you should follow the sound of the spring and soon the trail will begin to ascend. Even on a hot day the hike is pleasant. The shade of the trees and the refreshing murmur of the water will keep you cool. After a steep climb we finally found ourselves at the foot of the castle. Surrounded by one of the northernmost olive groves in the world, this castle was partially restored in the mid 20th century and is open to the public from March to November.
Here there is a small falcon breeding center where birds of prey are exhibited. And an exhibition is dedicated to Lariosaurus, a prehistoric marine reptile discovered just a few hundred meters from the castle. On a peninsula in the middle of Lake Como stands Vezio Medieval Castle, an ancient military outpost for over a thousand years. This castle was built by Lombard Queen Theodolinda to protect the lake and the surrounding villages. Strategically positioned for both military and trade purposes, the castle was connected to the village of Varenna and enclosed by two long walls extending down to the lake. These walls safeguarded the town and its people from the wars and plundering that shook the region throughout the Middle Ages.
To the side there is a peninsula. The town of Bellagio. One of the most beautiful places on Lake Como, Bellagio even lent its name to the largest casino in Las Vegas. In the distance you can see Komochina Island. In the shade of the castle gardens, Theodolinda spent her final years in peace. However, had she lived 500 years later, she would have witnessed a tragic event: during the war between Milan and Como, the people of Varenna sided with Milan but were defeated and the town at the foot of the castle was looted. The inhabitants of Komochina Island faced an even worse fate. In 1169 the island's settlement was completely destroyed and the survivors fled to Varenna for refuge.
The castle, kept alive by the ghosts of Vezio, is adorned each year with white sculptures. Tourists participate by covering themselves with plaster-soaked fabrics and standing motionless in a chosen pose for an hour.
These charming ghosts have become the castle’s permanent residents. Before leaving the castle, we climbed the tower to enjoy the panoramic view once more. Then we descended through the village and crossed the bridge over the stream. Despite the small water flow, the sound of the stream is surprisingly loud, perhaps amplified by the echoing rocks. The surrounding forests are filled with strawberries, which are both visually and tastefully delightful. In the Italian wilderness, you will never go hungry. Rejuvenated, we continued our journey.
We returned to Varenna and now I invite you to take a walk with me through the city's streets. The layout of the residential buildings is quite simple. Streets run parallel to the shoreline, intersected every 15 meters by staircases leading down to the lake. This arrangement once allowed fishermen to reach the water quickly and today tourists staying here benefit from the same convenience. I just want to sit and admire this beauty. In Varenna, there is a tradition of painting technical doors with cityscapes.
We have arrived at one of the city's most famous spots. A beautiful lakeside promenade stretches from an elegant pier to Olivedo Pier, surrounded by villas, gardens and small shops. This path, seemingly suspended over the water, has a contemplative and romantic atmosphere. It is a magnet for couples in love. Known as the Lover's Walk, this route is part of the six-kilometer-long Greenway of the Patriarchs. But who are these patriarchs? The people of Varenna have been called patriarchs due to a special religious tradition. Today Varenna's wise elders, those approaching a hundred years old, are honored with this title and celebrated with a special festival.
The Path of the Patriarchs runs right along the water, offering breathtaking views of the lake and the opposite shore. We walked along a portion of this beautiful trail. Along the way, numerous benches invite you to sit, relax and take in the scenery or enjoy a small picnic. One of the most romantic spots is the famous red arches, a perfect place for a romantic photo. From here you also get a stunning view of Varenna’s central waterfront. After a stroll along the Lovers Walk, it's impossible not to be enchanted by its romantic ambiance.
No matter what mood you arrive in, here, above the water, during the golden hour of sunset, forget the daily rush. Watch the play of light and shadows on the lake. If merely observing isn’t enough, imagine yourself as a wise patriarch strolling under the setting sun or a carefree lover awaiting a romantic rendezvous. Where does the Lovers Walk lead? I believe it takes you to happiness, new adventures and unforgettable memories. In sunny Varenna it could be no other way.
We stepped into the central square, adorned with pruned chestnut trees. Here you’ll find a few churches, the town hall and charming hotels and restaurants. Standing right by the lake in a sunlit square, the Church of Saint George has captivated couples from around the world, making it a favored wedding destination on Lake Como. However, a few years ago, the local diocese decided to limit these ceremonies to residents only, sparking reactions from both tourists and townspeople. The church’s interior decor is also quite impressive. Small-town churches, with their unpretentious and minimally adorned styles, create an intimate and authentic atmosphere. This place has a unique charm.
Near the altar two medieval frescoes from the 14th century can be found on the columns: one depicting the famous Lombard Queen Theodolinda, the other portraying Pope Saint George the Great. Unusually positioned in the square, another church stands with its apse facing the main square, its bell tower by the lake and its façade entirely obscured by adjacent buildings. From its courtyard a magnificent view of the lake unfolds.
This is the city's oldest church, dating back to the 11th century. Later, in the 14th century, it was rededicated in honor of Saint John the Baptist. A major restoration in the past century revealed its Romanesque structure beneath later additions, restoring its original wooden beam ceiling in place of the vaulted one. The church is adorned with 16th century frescoes and in its western section, a sarcophagus believed to have been used for early Christian burials has been discovered.
Deeper into the square, stone archways lead into narrow alleys, hidden among the houses. Since large construction machinery cannot navigate these tight streets, maintenance is carried out using small excavators and vehicles that look like toys. At the same time, it’s always delightful to see people working with a smile and joy.
Thank you for spending this time with me. See you soon.
