It's... well, it's golden!

Called Kinkaku-ji, it was built by Ashikaga Yoshimitsu in 1397, it was for his private usage, and was converted to a temple after his death. It is covered by a layer of gold leaf which gives it the golden appearance. It somehow survived the Onin War, which laid waste to most of Kyoto, but it was burned down by a depressed monk in 1950. It was rebuilt in 1955, and the layer of gold leaf was made even thicker in 1984, giving it the current appearance. Today it may be one of the most—if not the most—popular sightseeing spots in Kyoto.

Yoshimitsu was the third Ashikaga shogun and represented the peak of their power. The gold of the temple is fitting, as his reign could be thought of as a golden age, at least one for his family. When he reunited the Northern and Southern Imperial courts in 1392, he became not only the most powerful man in the country, but one of the most powerful men in Japanese history. He was given the title "King of Japan" (nihon kokuō 日本国王) by the Emperor of China and upon retirement† was given the title "retired emperor". Some Japanese scholars (like Imatani Akira) assert that he was planing on killing the emperor, declaring himself emperor and starting a new dynasty. He died suddenly and unexpectedly in 1408 at age 50 before he could act on that idea or even more ambitious plans he may have had.

†: He still ruled behind the scenes until his death. "Retirement" was often just a way in Japanese history for powerful men to rule from the shadows.

I can't say Kinkaku-ji is my favorite. Too gaudy and too busy; I prefer the more remote and peaceful Ginkaku-ji (built by a lesser—but perhaps ultimately much more influential—descendant, Ashikaga Yoshimasa). But I do drop in sometimes when I'm near Kyoto.

David LaSpina is an American photographer and translator lost in Japan, trying to capture the beauty of this country one photo at a time and searching for the perfect haiku.

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