Well Hivers I’m about halfway putting that first roll of Ilford HP5 through the Rollei B35 and it is so much fun. Love the whole process more than a bit OCD and a lot more thinking about what you are doing than digital or a camera phone. I found it a lot more enjoyable than just banging away with a phone camera. I didn’t realise how much I missed film I wish I had done this years ago.
So on a huge impulse I made an upgrade I could never have done as a cadet back in 1975. Looking at old websites my original entry level B35 must have cost me about £125. The Rollei 35 S was around £250 which I would never been able to justify so guess what I’ve gone and done.
Looking on eBay there are quite a few coming up mostly from Germany or Japan. Some of the mint special Gold, or Titanium special editions are going for around £2000 wow. But the standard original good condition Singapore 35S seem to go for £250 to £600 so a bit more manageable. After a bit of thought I put a bid in for a Silver 35S from Germany and won. Joys of eBay on late night after a few beers, it could have been worse. At around £200 I’m happy but I Know there will be an around £50 import duty and postage bloody BREXIT.
So after a week or so I’m now the very proud owner of a nice condition Singapore Factory Rollei 35 S. Size wise it’s very similar to the B35 a little heavier the big obvious difference is the ASA settings and aperture are on the front and the lens is a 5 element Sonnar f 2.8 / 40 mm which is a bit better too.
Another advantage is the lens filter thread size is 30.5mm on the B35 it’s only 24mm and I have a set 30.5mm filters in red, yellow and orange filters from one of my old digital cameras they will be perfect for black and white film.
One of the biggest differences from the B35 is the light meter on the 35 S
It’s CdS so it needs a battery which strangely is fitted inside the camera so if it goes flat while you still have film to shoot it’s guess work or an external light meter.
The way the light meter works is a bit odd too. You have a small window on the top of the camera and the red hand with the small ring on it is coupled to the aperture and speed. The light meter is the white needle and as you change the speed and aperture the red hand moves correct exposure is supposed to be when the light meter lines up with the centre of the ring.
Compared to the phone light meter it seems accurate but it’s going to take some getting used too.
So there you have it Hivers a nice impulse buy and another film camera to play with.