Last night we finally did the thing everyone whispered about: Registan at night. And holy hell, the rumors are 100% true.
We’re still staying at El Madina (20-25 min lazy walk to the square, still the best budget pick in town). Left the hotel around 8 PM, streets already buzzing with families heading the same direction. By the time we reached the main gates, the three madrasahs were glowing like someone cranked the saturation to max: Ulugh Beg on the left looking wise and calm, Sher-Dor opposite with its cheeky tigers, and Tilla-Kari in the middle dripping gold even in the dark.
Quick rewind for context: “Registan” literally means “sandy place” in Persian. Back in the day this square was covered in sand to soak up blood from public executions and announcements (Timurid era was wild). Fast-forward to 2025 and it’s UNESCO’s darling, the absolute poster child of the Silk Road.
Inside the courtyards it feels like a medieval mall came back to life: tiny workshops selling hand-hammered silver, miniature paintings, and those long-necked dutar instruments you hear in every Uzbek song. We climbed a terrifyingly narrow 600-year-old brick staircase (zero safety rails, pure adrenaline) to a hidden café on the second floor of Sher-Dor. Sat on carpets, ordered Turkish coffee brewed the proper way — in hot sand — while the call to prayer mixed with chill lo-fi beats from someone’s phone. Surreal doesn’t even cover it.
Then 9 PM hit and the square went full Vegas-meets-Bukhara: colored lights sweeping across the façades, lasers painting stories of Timur and Ulugh Beg on the walls, epic orchestral music booming from hidden speakers. The 3D mapping show lasts about 12 minutes and it’s completely free — just grab a spot on the steps early because it gets packed. People from literally everywhere: Spanish couples, Brazilian backpackers doing TikToks, a German guy proposing (yes, really), and us just standing there with jaws on the floor.
Phone died right as the finale started (classic me), but sometimes you gotta put the camera down and just live it.
Random flex: Samarkand’s brand-new international airport (opened 2022, upgraded nonstop) now has direct flights from Dubai, Istanbul, Seoul, and even seasonal ones from Europe. You can literally skip Tashkent entirely and wake up straight in Silk Road heaven.
Tonight was one of those travel moments that tattoos itself on your soul. Tomorrow morning we’re hitting Siab Bazaar at opening — spices, bread hotter than the sun, and zero chill when it comes to bargaining!
Who’s seen the Registan light show?
I write my texts myself, correct mistakes and translate via ChatGPT (which is not a violation on Hive)! All photos were taken by me personally - I am a beginner photographer, so I ask professionals not to judge strictly.
Thank you for sharing these moments with me! Until new stories and new holidays! ✌️
Camera 📷: Sony Alpha 7 IV full-frame Lens 🔭: Sony FE 70-200mm F: 2.8 GM OSS II Lens 🔭: Sony FE 90mm F2.8 Macro G OSS Lens 🔭: Sony FE 20-70 mm F: 4 G Processed 🛠: Lightroom
