When you hear the name Sumatra, what comes to mind? A type of coffee roast? Yes, perhaps, but Sumatra is far more than a kind of brew. It’s one of the most underrated travel destinations in the world. For those who have heard of the island nation of Indonesia in Southeast Asia and thought about traveling there, Bali probably comes to mind. Or maybe the capital city of Jakarta. Perhaps to see the Komodo dragons in Komodo National Park. No, my fellow traveler, the more than 17,000 islands that make up the archipelago of Indonesia offer treasures far beyond your wildest imagination. Sumatra is one of the most amazing of all.
Sumatra offers shades of Bali in a far more pristine, off-the-beaten-path sort of way. Tourists few and far between brave the unknown to venture to Lake Toba, the world’s largest volcano lake and largest in Southeast Asia. More than 100 kilometres long, 30 wide and more than 500 meters deep, this deep blue lake is a liquid gem held within a rim of a massive volcano caldera. The supervolcano last erupted more than 74,000 years on an epic scale we can’t even imagine. The fallout reached an estimated 28,000 kilometres into the atmosphere and, some experts believe, plunged the world into a deep ice age. The crater is now filled with one of the most gorgeous lakes in the world. That it is virtually empty of any water craft except some ferries and tour cruise boats is a testament to the unspoiled nature of Lake Toba.
Samosir Island is a pearl in the middle of this aquatic cup. A large island within an island surrounded by the rest of Sumatra, Samosir looks like paradise when one approaches it by boat. Accessible over land by car or from the town of Parapet on Lake Toba’s southern shore, Samosir is home to the Siallagan clan, one of many indigenous clans of Sumatra. The village offers a glimpse of the culture and architecture unique to this part of Indonesia. Amidst the peak-roof communal houses, one finds an abundance of local crafts available to buy. Many artisans rely on visitors to support their local community.
The drive around Lake Toba from Parapet at the south end to majestic Siposopiso Falls on the north shore can be quite harrowing in a large vehicle navigating the narrow highway, especially when a truck comes from the opposite direction. But that’s part of the adventure that comes with a trip to Sumatra. Is Siposopiso worth a visit? See for yourself.
Up the road from the falls lies Berastagi, a city at a crossroads. To the southwest, Lake Toba. To the northwest, Gunung Lueser National Park, home to a vast wilderness that gives Sumatra much of its exotic mystique. While animals such as the Sumatra tiger and orangutans are protected and hard to see in the wild, adventure and trekking you will find aplenty. Not far from Berastagi to the north lies Mt. Sinabung, an active volcano that erupted en force in February 2018. A 7-kilometre red zone has since been declared to keep people from risking their lives to see it up close. It was still erupting when I visited. A truly amazing sight to behold.
You can see Sinabung from Mt. Siabayak, another active volcano that has not erupted since 1881. Siabayak is a moderately easy (level 2) hike from the trailhead just north of Berastagi. Walking to the volcano’s rim to survey the valley below and Sinabung erupting is a sight I will never forget. Sulphuric gas spews from vents dotting the volcano, including two fumaroles. The smell of sulphur and sight of these gaseous fumes leaves one awe inspired.
If you visit Sumatra, you will likely first visit its largest city, Medan, home to more than 2.5 million souls. While the city has several beautiful landmarks, including the former sultan’s Maimun Palace and mosques, churches, and temples, among other historic edifices, they are not the island’s main attractions. Nature is. Spend a short time in Medan for sightseeing or shopping before heading out for your Sumatra adventure.
If you can’t find the time or money to go to this incredible place, start with a cup of Sumatra coffee with Lintong beans likely grown on the shores of Lake Toba...and dream.
