Let's continue the trip to isolated tribe Mentawai, if you found this at first you may want to see the previous post about my trip here
Around 2 pm we are ready to continue our journey towards the next destination, the house of Syukri's grandfather. The journey we had to travel was much heavier because there were no more concrete rebound streets. Sometimes the road we had to go through was muddy and full of bushes. The mileage we expected was about 7 km. From the previous experience with a distance of about 7 km plus another break time on the road then we will arrive around 18.30. It's a bit dark, of course, but Syukri already informed our arrival to his family through his cousin who had departed this morning.
A little explanation about the Tattoo
You may concern how they make the tattoo by traditional way. I will try to explain a little as informed by Ama Lepon:
The Ink:
The ink is made from natural sources, there are 3 main ingredients:
• Banana sap
• Fine powdered charcoal
• sugar cane extract
Those 3 ingredients mixing thoroughly become sticky dough and ready to use (it can be use for painting as well).
They use traditional tattoo tools made from small sharpen hard wood or nail or even thorn and attached to small piece of wood or bamboo. The hard sharp thorn soaked into the ink and tapped gently onto the skin with multiple repetitions following the pattern. The gash of the tattoo will be healed by itself in a few days
I don’t have any photos when they make tattoo but you can check this link to have clearer idea of their traditional way of making tattoo. Here is the link
Syukri’s Uncle House
It was just as we thought, our place to stay was well supplied. This house is also almost the same as Uma we stayed earlier. A stage house with a kitchen and a separated room. We were given a spot in porch to sleep that night after we cooked for dinner. If it is about cooking matters, then I was always taking responsibility. Karen, Yanti, Jonathan, Tatha and Shukri took part help me with what I need. Simple dinner which was rice, dried fish with chili sauce and fried potato for the menu.
We brought some present to this family as a gift such; sugar, tea, rice and tobacco. They were so happy to welcoming us. We were treated not as the tourist but as the family, for visiting these places as a tourist they might charge several fees.
We had proper place to sleep that night even totally out of light since that area completely had no electricity. They make kerosene torch from soft drink can and filled with kerosene fuel and a piece of cloth as it burner go through small bamboo pipe and cover properly with thin clay.
Visiting the last Uma
The next day we were invited to go to the last Uma at the far end of South Siberut, and we depart about 12 by midday. This Uma is belonged to grandfather of Syukri. To reach the place we have to go through a fairly heavy terrain, crossing the river in which the adult knee (for me a small and short was deeper ... hahaha)
We crossed the same river three times because the shortcuts and the river winding. Pass through the muddy shrubs and puddles as high as my chest. We spent 3 after crossing the swamps, muddy trail that overgrown by wild grass and bushy sago trees (sago). By cloudy evening 3 pm we arrived at the Uma. We brought color pencils, drawing books, biscuits, sugar, and tobacco as our present to Syukris’s grandfather and kiddos. Syukri had not visited his grandfather for a while. As I could see, Syukri were so close with his family and his grandfather.
I took my time to walk a little far to see the land and the family activities in the farming land. I knew from Syukri that the their land as far my eyes could see. That was very large farming land, but only a small part that had been cultivated properly. The rest were for the farming animal such pigs, chicken, cow and a few of goats.
We did not plan to stay there, so after a friendly meeting with his grandfather and looked around the last occupied area we went back to Syukri’s uncle house. Syukri and I did not comeback with the rest of the team for repairing canoe engine that had been out of order for few weeks, I decided to divide the team into two groups because I was afraid that they could not walk 3 hours in the dark swampy trail. They departed at 4.30 at the evening accompanied by one of Syukri family. I talked to Jonathan that we would comeback through the river using canoe and bring some engine broken part with us to find replacement in the village. We spent more time than I thought to open the broken part of the engine and finally we took the complete engine put it into canoe to bring it to the village. The engine was quite heavy to carry along the road.
A nightmare
It was getting dark when we were about to leave for the village where we were staying, at the house of Syukri’s uncle. Shukri agreed on a slightly unusual idea they were doing rafting down river at night. They would never do it for avoiding the risk. Shukri helped to point out where to reduce the speed of our canoe and give a direction where the obstacle and bend were. The rapid stream of river made me only aim the bow by using bamboo poles while standing in the stern of the canoe. Shukri sit on bow to ensure direction and sees the obstacles that run along the winding river with the help of the dim light of the moon. To me this was a fun experience.
Meanwhile in Syukri’s Uncle Uma, without our acknowledgment something had happened to the team that arrive earlier. Ops it is not an accident. They have arrived safely to the destination with the help of a guide who knows the trail very well. They were very nervous waiting for news from us. As long as they live in the area, they have never sailed the river at night alone without adequate lighting. According to the beliefs of Arat Sibulungan (hereditary beliefs of Animism), there are innumerable supernatural creatures of forest and river keeper that will catch us if we do night rafting with a fairly strong river current.
If you are a rafting enthusiast then you will understand if I say the river’s grade on that night is 3 at some spots. I really enjoy the twilight while controlling the small boat that we were on. There was a magical sensation that made me really enjoy this little adventure. This was far from rafting using rubber boats, because the canoes are not as flexible as the rubber boats, nor the white water kayaks that are relatively easier to maneuver for they are not length as the canoe we used that that night. So this increase the level of difficulty in rafting.
After 2 hours on the river we arrived at the last point of the rafting, luckily Syukri memorized the end point of our rafting, so we landed at the right point. We continued the next 30 minutes of our trip by walking through a swampy land filled by the villagers' pigs.
Eventually, we arrived at uma safely. There was a strange thing going on, I saw more people gathering and there were petromak lamps (bright kerosene lamps) and some grown men preparing torches and hunting gear. Soon as we saw them they shouted in unison showing their joy. I became worried and anxious with what I saw. Yanti was sobbing looking at her camera while Karen was sitting beside her and I approached them carefully, while Jonathan and Tatha were seen in a row. I did not fully aware what had happened because the crowd talk in a language that I could not know a little. I tried to be as quite as possible and asked simple question; What's going on ?. Hearing my voice Yanti instantly looked up, as if that is the impossible thing to happen.
Plaaakkkk ...., a hard-slap one that might be a proper reflex landed perfectly on my left cheek. WOww
Lapse of a few seconds later between tears and anger Yanti spluttering on me and shown her worries with the eyes of the whole audience looking at. I just kept silent aware of the complexities and confusions that I have caused due to the river path. Although tired and hungry that night I had to cook for our dinner, we were all hungry, they also had no food because nobody cooked dinner for them. Syukri was called by Sikere (Community Leader) for a moment little far from us. I understood he had to explain the whole things to them. I need to concern to our dinner, a simple choice is rice with cornet beef in chili sauce. Done, everyone was happy again. Syukri came back when we were about to start the dinner. He spoke nothing at all, but taking a plate and filled with rice.
Apparently they were very worried about our safety, so they had been getting ready to search us into the river with the help of paranormal. The highly respected senior paranormal in the village had seen through the supernatural realms that we had been captured on by the magical creatures of the river, our spirits had been taken and there had to be the sacrifice of a fat pig as a return. According to the story of my friend Tatha and Yanti the next day. We all laughed out together but Yanti just smile. Tata and Tatha could be affected by senior paranormal predictions. LOOOLLLL
We were all refreshed after our physical and mental adventures last night. Yanti sentenced me to cook lunch for about 50 people. The reason is as a thank-you to the village elders who had laboriously gathered help to find us. “Ok boss, I'm ready". I've often cooked for the needs of a restaurant before then cooking task for 50 people was not a tough thing as long as the materials and tools I need were available. Syukri who allegedly find me all the materials and tools that I need!
Simple menu only, minced chicken curry cooked mixed with young bananas, only one chicken with a bunch of bananas as the vegetable. Seasonings were not that easy to get around the place, the important thing was not spicy food that the main message of Yanti and Shukri. It only took about 1.5 hours to prepare it all into a delicious lunch that midday. Tadaaaaa all ready. Task was completely done.
Sorry I did not have chance to take photos for the last part of the story, there were a condition sometime we do not take any photos at all. That is way I try to write as detail as possible as the substitute.
At 3 o’clock we were ready to leave the place, and next stop is to Syukri’s parent house
Continued................
Hope for the best and prepare for the worst
Versi Bahasa Indonesia
Melanjutkan Perjalanan
Sekitar jam 2 sore kami bersiap untuk melanjutkan perjalanan menuju tujuan selanjutnya yaitu rumah kakeknya Syukri yang merupakan guide kami. Perjalanan yang harus kami tempuh jauh lebih berat karena tidak ada lagi jalanan rabat beton. kadang jalanan yang harus kami lalui adalah berlumpur dan penuh semak belukar. Jarak tempuh yang kami perkirakan adalah sekitar 7 km. Dari pengalaman sebelumnya dengan jarak sekitar 7 km ditambah lagi dengan waktu istirahat di jalan maka kami akan tiba sekitar jam 18.30. Sudah agak gelap tentunya, akan tetapi syukri sudah memberitahukan kedatangan kami kepada keluarganya disana melalui sepupunya yang sudah berangkat dari pagi hari tadi.
Tepat seperti perkiraan kami, tempat untuk menginap kami sudah disediakan dengan baik. Rumah ini juga hampir sama dengan Umu yang kami singgahi sebelumnya. Sebuah rumah panggung yang memiliki dapur dan satu sekat pemisah. Kami diberi tempat di selasar rumah untuk istirahat setelah kami memasak untuk makan malam. Jika sudah menyangkut urusan masak memasak maka saya yang selalu mengambil tanggung jawab. Karen, Yanti, Jonathan, Tatha dan Syukri selalu mengambil bagian membantu apa-apa yang saya perlukan. Makan malam yang sederhana berupa tumis ikan asin dengan sambal terasi serta kentang goreng sebagai menu utama.
Menuju Uma Terakhir
Kesokan harinya kami diajak untuk menuju ke Uma terakhir di paling ujung Siberut Selatan. Uma tersebut merupakan uma milik kakeknya Syukri. Untuk mencapai tempat tersebut kami harus melalui medan yang lumayan berat, menyebrangi sungai yang dalamnya selutut orang dewasa (untuk saya yang berbadan kecil dan pendek jadi sepinggang...hahaha)
Kami menyeberangi sungai yang sama sebanyak 3 kali karena jalan pintas dan sungainya berkelok-kelok. Melewati semak belukar yang berlumpur dan lalang setinggi dada (gak usah cerita lagi lah untuk saya setinggi apa). Akhirnya jam 5 sore kami tiba di Uma tersebut setelah menyebrangi rawa-rawa yang banyak ditumbuhi pohon rumbia (sagu).
Kami tidak berencana untuk menginap disana, jadi setelah beramah tamah dengan kakeknya Syukri kamipun hendak pamit. Saya sebagai ketua team memutuskan untuk membagi team manjadi 2 bagian. Satu bagian melalui jalan darat yaitu jalan yang semula kami lewati, sementara saya dan Syukri harus membantu kakeknya untuk memperbaiki kandang ayam maka akan menyusul kemudia.
Mimpi Buruk Menunggu
Hari sudah mulai gelap ketika kami hendak berangkat menuju desa tempat kami menginap yaitu di rumah pamannya Syukri. Saya mengajak Syukri untuk sedikit berpetualang. Syukri menyetujui ide yang sedikit tidak biasa meraka lakukan yaitu melakukan rafting down river malam hari. Syukri hanya membantu menunjukkan tempat untuk menghentikan laju sampan kami. Arus air sungai yang cepat membuat saya hanya mengarahkan haluan sampan menggunakan galah bambu sambil berdiri di buritan sampan. Syukri duduk di haluan sampan guna memastikan arah dan melihat hambatan-hambatan yang melintang sepanjang sungai yang berkelok dengan bantuan cahaya bulan temaram. Bagiku ini adalah pengalaman yang menyenangkan.
Sementara itu di Uma milik paman Syukri. Tanpa kami sadari sesuatu telah terjadi kepada team yang melalui jalan darat. Ops bukan kecelakaan. Mereka telah tiba dengan selamat sampai tujuan dengan bantuan guide yang sangat menguasai jalan tersebut. Mereka sedang sangat gelisah menunggu kabar dari kami. Selama mereka tinggal di daerah tersebut belum pernah meraka mengarungi sungai pada malam hari apalagi tanpa penerangan yang memadai. Menurut kepercayaan Arat Sibulungan (kepercayaan Animisme turun temurun), ada banyak sekali makhluk gaib penunggu hutan dan sungai yang akan menangkap kami jika kami melakukan pengarungan malam hari dengan arus sungai yang lumayan kuat. Jika anda pegiat Arung Jeram maka anda akan mengerti jika saya katakan grede sungai pada malam itu adalah 3.
Saya sangat menikmati kondisi temaran sambil mengendalikan sampan kecil yang kami tumpangi berdua Syukri. Ada sensasi gaib yang membuat saya sangat menikmati petualangan kecil ini. Ini jauh sekali berbeda dangan Arung jeram menggunakan perahu karet, karena sampan tidaklah selentur perahu karet, juga tidak sama dengan kayak yang relatif lebih mudah untuk manuver karena kayak tidak sepanjang sampan yang kami pakai malam ini. Sehingga ini menambah tingkat kesulitan dalam pengarungan.
Setelah 3 mengarungi arus sungai kami tiba di titik terakhir pengarungan, untunglah sukri sangat hafal dengan titik akhir pengarungan kami sehingga kami mendarat di titik yang tepat. Kami melanjutkan 30 menit perjalanan berikutnya dengan berjalan kaki melawati semak belukar yang di penuhi oleh babi peliharaan penduduk desa.
Akhirnya kami tiba di uma paman Syukri dengan aman. Ada hal aneh yang terjadi, saya melihat lebih banyak orang yang berkumpul dan ada lampu petromak (lampu berbahan bakar minyak tanah) dan beberapa orang lelaki dewasa yang sedang bersiap dengan obor dan perlengkapan pemburu. Begitu melihat kami mereka serempak berteriak menunjukkan kegembiraan meraka. Saya menjadi khawatir dan was-was dengan apa yang saya lihat. Yanti terlihat menangis dan Keren sedang menghibur Yanti, sementara Jonathan dan Tatha terlihat gelisan. Akhirnya saya mendekati meraka dengan pertanyaan sederhana; Apa yang terjadi Keren?. mendengar suara saya Yanti sontak mendongak keatas. Seolah itu adalah hal yang tidak mungkin terjadi.
Plaaakkkk....,sebuah tanparan keras yang mungkin reflek tepat mendarat dipipi kiriku. WOww
Selang sekian detik kemudia antara terharu dan marah Yanti merepeti saya dan menunjukkan kekesalannya dengan disaksikan oleh seluruh hadirin. Saya hanya diam menyadari ada kerumitan dan simpang siur pemikiran yang telah saya sebabkan akibat memilih jalur sungai. Meski lelah dan lapar tetap malam itu saya harus memasak untuk makan malam kami semua. dan ternyata kami semua lapar, mereka juga tidak ada makanan karena tidak ada yang memasakkan makan malam untuk mereka. Pilihan sederhana adalah Nasi putih dengan cornet sapi tumis dalam saos cabe. Done, semua kembali bahagia
Ternyata mereka sudah sangat khawatir dengan keselamatan kami, sehingga meraka telah bersiap-siap untuk mencari kami ke sungai dengan menggunakan bantuan paranormal. Paranormal senior yang sangat disegani di desa itu telah melihat melalui alam gaib bahwa kami telah di mangsa oleh makhluk gaib penunggu sungai, roh kami telah ditawan dan harus ada pengorbanan seekor babi jantan gemuk sebagai tebusan. Menurut cerita kawan saya Tatha dan Yanti keesokan harinya. Kami semua tertawa terpingkal-pingkal mebayangkan Yanti dan Tatha bisa terpengaruhi oleh prediksi buruk paranormal senior. LOOOLLLL
Ternyata mereka sudah sangat khawatir dengan keselamatan kami, sehingga meraka telah bersiap-siap untuk mencari kami ke sungai dengan menggunakan bantuan paranormal. Paranormal senior yang sangat disegani di desa itu telah melihat melalui alam gaib bahwa kami telah di mangsa oleh makhluk gaib penunggu sungai, roh kami telah ditawan dan harus ada pengorbanan seekor babi jantan gemuk sebagai tebusan. Menurut cerita kawan saya Tatha dan Yanti keesokan harinya. Kami semua tertawa terpingkal-pingkal mebayangkan Yanti dan Tatha bisa terpengaruhi oleh prediksi buruk paranormal senior. LOOOLLLL
Kami semua sudah segar kembali setelah petualangan fisik dan mental semalam. Yanti memberikan hukuman telak kepada saya untuk memasak makan siang untuk sekitar 50 orang kampung itu. Alasannya adalah sebagai ucapan terimakasih kepada pihak tetua desa yang telah susah payah berkumpul untuk membantu mencari kami. Ok buk boss, saya siap. Saya sudah sering memasak untuk kebutuhan restoran sebelumnya maka tugas memasak untuk 50 orang bukanlah tugas berat selama bahan dan alat yang saya perlukan tersedia. Syukrilah yang bertuga mencarikan saya semua bahan dan alat yang saya butuhkan!
Menunya sedarhana saja, ayam cincang dimasak menjadi kari dicampur dengan pisang muda, ayamnya hanya 1 ekor saja tetapi pisangnya yang banyak sebagai sayuran. Bumbunya termasuk tidak gampang didapat disekitar tempat itu, yang penting tidak pedas itulah pesan utama dari Yanti dan Syukri. Hanya butuh sekitar 1,5 untuk menyiapkan semua menjadi santapan lezat siang itu. Tadaaaaa semua siappp. Yuk makan siang dulu kita
Bersambung................
Selamat Membaca