The greatest waves are found in Indo
“It's not objective. It's subjective.”
-a Pollock's art fan
As I was saying, I've been to Indo five times so far. I've seen Jawa, Bali, Lombok and Kepulauan Mentawai. I've surfed every time the ocean pumped some waves and I gave my blood to ride some low tide reef breaks (thank you Uluwatu).
Indonesia has some of the world's greatest waves : Uluwatu, Padang Padang, G-Land... are the most renowned ones but there are so much more yet to be discovered.
Low tide at Uluwatu in 2011, daddy's recovering
But the best one is firing at Lombok's Desert Point
"There's no desert but the name"
I never had a better session since I've been surfing Desert Point. We were staying at Kuta and riding Mawi everyday, but we heard about a big swell hitting Desert Point. Next morning, we drove like 4 hours and we arrived during low tide. So we stayed a bit, eating good ol' Nasi-Goreng, chatting with locals and looking at the sea. It seemed that this swell was already gone, and we were almost alone (which is extraordinary for one of world's most renown surf spot).
Sunset Warung, nice paintings
And then, suddenly, Desert Point started firing ! I grabbed my board, shout at everybody, jumped in the water. I ducked below and align with the wave, took one, then another one, and another one... They just kept coming and we were only four on the water : plenty for everyone. I had a lot of good waves, powerful, barreling all the way. The water had this green color you only see under tropical waves. I have no idea how long this session lasted, but when the last sunray licks the water mirror, you know it's time to get your Bintang and thank the ocean.
I love this green water
You haven't been surfing until you've surfed in Indonesia
It's a package : its waves, its people, its food
A lot of people learn to surf, about one million every year as I was told, and if surfing really is a thing for you, then you have to go to Indo. Bring a board or two, talk with the people there and share with them. Grab some good waves, grab some Nasi Goreng and experience one of world's most magic environment. Respect the culture, respect the beaches (too much individuals dumping waste, shame on them !) and you'll experience "once in a lifetime" moments.
And you, what's you favorite surf spot ?
Having a good one from Dpoint's wave bureau
EDIT: I just read about 