Hi,
I've completed the trip to Nabire with Kali Lemon. It went well. I would say that the whalesharks were between 6m and 4 m. There are a couple of 15 m monsters in Cenderawasi bay but they were not present during my visit. The snorkelling experience was better than diving with them as I could get much closer - in fact, so close I could stroke them. At one point, there were three 6m whalesharks gently pressing me as I splashed water in their mouths. They seem to like this, perhaps because the water is oxygenated. They are completely docile and very gentle. I saw them on three sessions. One dive and snorkelling on day one and two dives both followed by snorkelling on day 2.
The transfer was calm and took 1.5 hours. I did not find it uncomfortable. Food was simple, pretty good and in very large ammounts. Gerol (spelling ?) took great care of me. No doubt his time would have been more divided had I not been the only guest. There was a western toilet, but I cannot remember now whether it had its own flushing mechanism or whether I had to use the mandi - a minor point. Electricity was available from dusk.
In order to see the Red bird of paradise, I extended my trip by one day. Initially, I was asked for an additional 2.5 M IDR. I refused, explaining that I was not going diving or snorkelling and required only food, accommodation and the bird trek. I paid an additional 500,000. It would be unwise to assume this creates a precedent. I think their response would depend on supply and demand.
The bird trek was quite arduous , with a steep climb using fixed ropes for about 20 minutes. The views were not that good as the birds were silhouetted against the skyline and difficult to see high in a dense canopy. I was to have very much better views in Saleo, Waigeo a few days later.
I do have two criticisms. It is very expensive at 5m for 1 night and their admin is not good. Emails and texts
often receive no reply. It took a year to get a booking. I have just discovered a final email from Bram, sent after my departure despite two earlier reminders from me that I would not have access to email after I left the UK and that he should use sms. His email said that he had accidentally erased my passport and photo details and could I send them again ! There had been an earlier confirmation that all documentation was in place. Of course, I knew nothing of this last email and, as it turned out, there was no problem with the Surat Jalan or the permission to enter Cenderawasi Bay.
All in all, a remarkable experience, but considerable difficulty with admin.