The bird trap calls out with such desperation it must be significant not only to me but to those around me, clustering near. The village on the banks of the process can feel it; Significance spreads through osmosis. A black swath of limousines in the distance. The entire population of the Mediterranean deserves to enjoy the winter here in the saddle of the littlest ice age, vacillating through hills and valleys, gently rocking from side to side.