Let's flip a coin; it's your call. HEADS - sunshine and a gentle but chilly sea breeze. Tails - gale force winds, snow, and below freezing. If only life were that easy. I'm sure most of us would choose HEADS everyday. Up here in Niigata, you might as well flip a coin to predict the weather, especially between November and March. One day can be absolutely beautiful, followed by a day where you don't even contemplate leaving your home out of fear.
Japanese travel all year round, with the winter offering skiing and snowboarding, hot springs, smaller crowds and reasonable prices (outside of New Years). If you're lucky with the weather, as we were in February, there's no reason why you can't have just as much fun as any other season. Here is possible getaway if your contemplating a trip to Japan in the winter and have a couple of days up your sleeve (and a JR East Japan Rail Pass.)
Murakami is easily accessible by train or car from Niigata (approx 90 mins). Salmon return to its rivers every October and November, with the town well-known for its traditional salmon farming techniques. If you're into fishing, Japanese history or traveling with young kids who need some action, pay a visit to Iyoboya Kaikan. Entry is cheap and you can even get your photo taken as an old-school salmon fisherman.
Just like everywhere else in Japan, next to the museum you'll find a restaurant (upstairs) and a souvenir shop. It's a pretty standard menu with curry, ramen and udon dishes, but if you're a salmon lover, you've gotta go with the sashimi/roe lunch set (below).
After a little sightseeing at another local attraction or playing in the neighboring park with the kids, it's probably getting chilly and dark. That leaves only one choice - head to your hotel. In our case, we stayed at Shiomiso, a pretty old but renowned place. It has simple rooms with a nice view of the sea, and various baths to you to try, both indoor and outdoor. Buffet dinner plans are available on certain days, but if you plan to have more than a few beers, I recommend buying some before you arrive and drinking in your room, as prices are very steep in the restaurant (liquor just a minutes' walk away. If you're lucky, you'll get to see a beautiful winter sunset over a calm sea, or you'll be left to enjoy the crashing waves pounding the beaches.
(source: www.shiomiso.co.jp)
The next morning, after sleeping in, perhaps taking another bath and enjoying a big breakfast, and assuming you blessed with sunshine again, why not jump in the car and head to Sasagawa Nagare? For train pass holders, the hotel shuttle bus will take you back to Murakami Station, from where you'll travel north. To be honest, there's little open in the winter at Sasagawa Naagre other than a service area and boat-tour, so you'll need to be creative in how to fill your time. You could take a walk along the sea wall or climb some of the unique rock formations, many of which are accessible and provide nice views for photography.
After exerting yourself in the fresh sea air, hunger pains will surely become more and more apparent. So, if you're driving back to Niigata via Tainai and Shibata along route 7, I recommend stopping at one of the many ramen shops to refuel the tank. For those on the train, there are a couple of ramen shops just near Murakami Station.
Murakami, Senami area is highlighted in dark green, the northernmost region of Niigata Prefecture. (source: Commons-Wikimedia)
This can be a day trip or overnight stay, it's up to you. It can be combined with winter sports, with several ski fields within an hours drive. Most importantly, you can relax, enjoy some fresh air and great food. If you don't like your chances of flipping a HEAD, then do the same plan in spring or summer. Summer offers swimming, boating and more, followed by nice long bath and a nice dinner.
Whatever season you choose, have fun.
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