New York Fashion Week opened the Fall season with energizing appeal. The city streets were traditionally dripping with high fashion, flamboyant trends, and refreshing perspectives that came from all over the globe. Today, what’s new and what’s in is as accessible as opening an app, but nothing is quite like attending and witnessing Fashion Week in the flesh.
As a global fashion capital, New York is the ultimate platform for the conversation. Rich in it’s own way of life, New York hosts so much diversity on a daily basis that is magnified at the turn of each season. NYFW brings us a special capsule experience of time, travel, and seeing new things. This year, diversity itself proved to be a real theme, thought process, and core inspiration for the collections. Creating originality out of these shared perspectives was a feast for the eyes.
Diversity, in a time of much separation and uncertainty, is a force to be recognized. It was powerful to witness designers from all backgrounds of life change their fantastical point of views and transform them into politically-charged statements.
An invigorating kick-off toward the start of the week was Indonesian Diversity, which showed at The Gallery at The Dream Downtown. The collective of six designers was a celebration of traditional fusions. The hour show of six back-to-back collections was rich in culture from each designer’s area of origin. From a collection entirely of slinky white lace, to adorned patchwork, to royal masks, to embellished hijabs, the visions from these designers were distinctive and romantic. The attendees of the show followed suit, and the line down the street was full of provoking, down-to-earth ensembles.
As for the attendees over at the Skylight at Clarkson Square, the heads were sometimes seen in the clouds. The 90’s trend was prominent as ever on the street, with staple choker necklaces, leather mini skirts, brand logos, fidler hats, platform shoes, and puffy shapes in abundance. Red monochrome was also seen at most street corners in the vicinity, along with Gucci t-shirts and fluffy footwear. Inside the galleries, rivals looked like girl squads. Originality seemed to be stagnant from the front to back rows.
Being so similar is not always faux pas. Creating a connection to other cultures and people made this season’s fashion week feel more dynamic, interesting, and maybe even more cathartic. Aside from the dissection of designer’s messages about humanity and the future, many people could be heard discussing current issues such as racism, politics, and Hurricanes Harvey and Irma. Blue ribbons could be seen adorned on top of both cheap and designer outfits, spreading awareness in protest of hatred and racism.
Inside the Skylight at Clarkson Square, the Concept Korea show was an upbeat nod to personal heritage, dense with Korean lifestyle, leisure, and professional looks. The influential K-Pop culture was combined with hand-selected customs to show multifaceted fun between the two designers that make up Concept Korea. The show was not only diverse in spirited apparel but also models. Different ethnicities equally rocked the figure 8 shaped runway in neon colors, headbands, funky hair and edgy makeup, and Maye Musk, a 69-year old fashion industry veteran, closed the show with a strong, empowered presence.
Other shows that stood out with a strong identity included Pia Gladys Perey, Leanne Marshall, and Cushnie et Ochs. These three shows were airy, with a calming mood of serenity over fortune. Poise and pristine styles were seen in the front row with elegant simplicity that, combined with the shows themselves, took us to a different place. Actress Jenna Dewan Tatum arrived to Cushnie et Ochs in a blush off-the-shoulder dress that emulated effortless femininity.
Project Runway winner Leanne Marshall made waves with colored chiffon, honoring the earth with colors of semi-precious stones. The collection created an uplifting optimism that was a feel-good highlight of the day. The playful draping and layering assured ruffles will remain on trend through the year. Pia Gladys Perey’s colorful pieces were similarly stunning, sporting the dreamy high necklines, exaggerated sleeves, and victorian trends.
Even densely pop culture-oriented designers drew inspiration from their heritage. Jeremy Scott paid tribute his background this season, along with the celebration of his 20th NYFW show.
One definite takeaway for the overall ready-to-wear market was functionality and jet-set vibes. Super accessible pieces will be that of the windbreaker, parka, and everchanging anorak jacket. The Jarel Zhang collection showed how to be a rockstar in the rain with his weatherproof creations. Many designers incorporated the victorian trend aforementioned in their outerwear pieces, with dramatic sleeves, necklines and hems making a lasting impression. Cold shoulders are obviously here through Spring, and everything from boots to jeans to blouses were seen with the lace-up trend taking over.
Headbands suggested we are looking back to the 80’s, while color, metals and futuristic materials pushed forward toward the 00’s and the future. The most coveted looks came from total, bad-ass imaginative looks, like the ones at Fenty x Puma, but also supreme simplicity: beautiful fabrics, clean but intricate designs, and a comfortable self-awareness. The most head-turning looks were not gaudy or over indulgent, manifesting the theme of being grounded and worldly. Comfortable is not to be confused with safe, which, when dealing with heritage or immigration, is anything but safe.
The transformative new chapter for designers were apparent and appreciated. The core mood and tone thats seemed to emulated from the overall season was that of diversity. The vast difference between each designer, model, and person in the audience elevated the experience even more. The impact of these themes made a thoughtful fashion week.
Whether one is an avid Fashion Week attendee, designer showing for the first time, part of the press, or sneaking into shows, there is always that common interest and universal love for fashion and what’s ahead.
-Jill Kent