When you talk about surfing you think of surfing the waves with a board. I was never any good at board surfing the waves but I was very good at body surfing. For those who don’t know body surfing is the action of catching a wave by swimming, usually with the aid of flippers, so that you are propelled towards the beach by the wave.
The technique is simple; make sure you are in the correct area where the wave builds up to break then swim hard on the slope of the wave until you feel the wave taking you forward over the falls. Make sure you extend your arms out forward until you are moving slightly in front of the wave so that it doesn’t dump you, and then put your arms by your sides. In order to keep momentum in the wave take a breath and put your head down from time to time so the wave can suck you forward.
I perfected this technique to such an extent that if the wave was shaped well enough I could angle away on it! Check out this old photo of me on the right doing this!
Image Credit: My Own Blog & Photo