Hello steemian, let's learn a little sea science.
In actual conditions in nature, the movement of orbital in shallow water (watershed) close to coastal areas and wave energy can affect coastal conditions.
The height and period of the wave depends on the length of the fetch generation. Fetch is the distance traveled by wave from the beginning of generation. This fetch is limited by the form of land that surrounds the sea. The longer the fetchnya distance, the wave height will be greater. Wind also has an important influence on wave height. Stronger winds will produce larger waves.
Waves that spread from the deep sea to the coast will change shape because of the change in the depth of the sea. As the waves move closer to the shore, the movement of waves at the bottom adjacent to the seabed will slow down. This is the result of friction / friction between the water and the seabed. Meanwhile, the top of the wave on the surface of the water will continue to go. The more heading to the beach, the peak of the waves will be sharper and the valley will be more flat. This phenomenon causes the wave to break.
While the waves of beach destroyers usually have a high altitude and velocity (very high). The returning water has less time to seep into the sand. When the waves come back to hit the beach there will be a lot of volume of water collected and transporting beach material to the middle of the sea or to other places.
Happy fasting