When I was a kid back in the 60s i saw them surfing Sunset beach in Hawaii. I became obsessed with trying to surf so I would ride a piece of cardboard off our garage roof into our swimming pool in Wisconsin. Good thing the garage roof was only 4 ft off the ground. Hence a surfer was born.
I found myself in Calif. in the late 70s and remembered Hey I wanted to be a surfer. I bought a surfboard and started surfing everyday. Yes there is a learning curve and i took my lumps. Next I ended up in Hawaii. Wanted to surf warm water big waves and hollow tubes. Hawaii has all that!
Well after 40 years of riding waves I am still loving being a surfer. The waves were fun today people were filled with Aloha!
Thank you for reading my post!
Aloha
Rik
rikrodriguez.com