Heeeyho Readers! Coming by to share a bit of Brazilian history.
What does a seventy-year-old story have to do with this post and me? A lot. From the height of my own ignorance, I realize how many details are missed while traveling. Only if I knew… When crossing Padua during the 2018/19 winter cycling journey, I never paid proper tribute to this noble Italian city (vagabond mind always fleeing from frenetic tourists). Almost three years after my trip, I find out another man shared the same path during World War II ― the protagonist of an epic mission.
Padua is a city and comune west of Venice, in Veneto, northern Italy. It is the capital of the province of Padua. This picturesque city has a dense network of arcaded streets opening into large communal piazze and several bridges crossing the various branches of the Bacchiglione river. The city hosts the famous University of Padua, founded in 1222 when a group of students and professors decided to leave the University of Bologna to have more freedom of expression. Galileo Galilei was a lecturer at the University of Padua between 1592 and 1610.
Prato della Valle, Padua
February 4th, 1945. Snow still covered the base, in Tarquinia, on that sunny winter day. The 1st GAvCa (1st Brazilian Fighter Squadron) armed the P-47 Thunderbolts to attack train bridges north of Padua, a mission they were used to perform. Among the pilots was Danilo Moura, the fellow compatriot from southern Brazil, whose steps I would unknowingly follow seventy years later.
Street of Padua
Eight direct impacts hit the railway bridge. Four direct impacts interrupted the railway line on the north bank of the river. Four bombs missed their target. The result was not observed due to intense FLAK. Source: Sendandoapua
At 14h30, at altitude 030, the mindless fury of eight Browning machine guns converged towards the ground ricocheting off steel rails and tearing the earth until finally finding the locomotive boiler. A confusion of steam and flames rose in front of the Thunderbolt after a fierce explosion. Danilo yanked the stick and applied full throttle to the ginormous Pratt & Whitney radial engine to avoid that inferno; the P-47 corresponded with a violent ascend.
A sudden shudder followed by a sharp metallic click of the engine shook the plane. The engine coughed and gushed an oil-heavy smoke, coating the windshield. “Flak,” thought Danilo. He tried accessing the instruments, but the cockpit was already fuming.
In a jolt, Danilo grabbed his map, unbuckled the seat belt, and, without much hesitation, jumped at an altitude of 400m, barely enough to open the parachute. He survived after landing on his butt, causing him to bite his tongue.
Did you know Brazil fought in World War II ?
Museum of the Astronomical Observatory of Padua (La Specola)
I set sight to Padua after leaving Slovenia. I expected another medieval Italian town with cheaper prices to spend a night or two. At least I wished for after failing to find a couch in Venice. As always, days were gray and perfect for aimless wanders, with total right to get lost. I’m sure the circumstances (and the cityscape) were not as pleasing in Danilo’s time.
After crashing, an Italian farmer found Danilo hiding amid the hay. For a second, the brave pilot thought about putting a 45 bullet into the man's head. He didn't. In precarious Italian (mostly caused by his swollen tongue), Danilo talked to the farmer who agreed to bring him civil clothes. With that invaluable aid, Danilo decided to do the opposite of what escape training had taught him. He began by despising the advice to head north into neutral Switzerland. Instead, he decided to aim south towards Pisa.
Still wearing his American boots and pilot's wristwatch, Danilo began his march towards Padua in plain daylight. At the time, in civil clothes and carrying a bag with bread, he looked like a poor Italian fleeing the horrors of war.
Basilica of Saint Anthony of Padua
Fortune favours the bold
Danilo ultimately reached Padua, still in German hands. Again, he defied the advice in the manual and, instead of going around the city, crossed it from end to end on a route he thought would lead to the Po River
On my wanders, I never knew another Brazilian had adventured through the same streets, but I did acknowledge those buildings must have been severely damaged during the World War II bombing raids. Each new alley hid the testament of different times.
Unlike myself, Danilo encountered German soldiers on the streets of Padua. He didn't care. Confident in his Italian disguise, the brave Brazilian wandered the alley ways of Padua. Many weird people wandered the Italian roads and cities back then. Danilo was just another figure.
Danilo crossed Padua without incident. Dirty, malnourished, bearded, and with a swollen tongue he aimed south, always on the main roads (contrary to what he'd been taught).
Streets of Padua
What follows in Danilo's story will be in a future book I'm planning to write. The man who defied every rule of war continued his journey to the Po River, on the same route I'd follow seventy years later. In the same fashion as myself, he slept out in the open and counted on the warm-hearted Italians to help him on that mission. We both fought the harshness of winter. We both survived.
The story made me realize the importance of traveling, reading, exploring, and preserving history. I hope I'm more attentive in future wanders. The world is awesome. People are awesome.
In memory of Ten. Danilo Marques Moura (30/06/1916 - 14/05/1990)
2nd Lieutenant Danilo Marques Moura, Yellow Squadron of the 1st GAvCA, Brazilian Air Force. Source: almanaquemilitar
Upon fulfilling his 11th mission, on February 4, 1945, Danilo was shot down by enemy anti-air SW of Treviso, Italy. He parachuted at a very low altitude, touching the ground seconds after opening his parachute. He landed on his butt, causing him to bite his tongue, which made speaking difficult. A farmer rescued and hid Danilo, but soon he felt tired of waiting and decided to return to allied lines. Contrary to all instructions, he managed to return to the base on foot and by bicycle. Danilo covered over 340 km using daylight and the main roads.
Obs: This post required immense research since the story is not widely spread. The text presented here is a portion of what really happened. All sources are free to use, and links are provided down below. Images of Padua are my own, taken during a cycling journey during the winter of 2018/19. Thanks for reading!
- http://almanaquemilitar.com
- http://www.sentandoapua.com.br
- https://bloguedovalentim.blog/2011/03/15/a-saga-de-danilo-final/
- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Padua
- https://pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Danilo_Marques_Moura
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Disclaimer: The author of this post is a convict broke backpacker, who has travelled more than 10.000 km hitchhiking and more than 5.000 km cycling. Following him may cause severe problems of wanderlust and inquietud. You've been warned.
