Prepare for it, it's a long writing with many photo illustrations!
I don't have to travel far from Székesfehérvár to roam between mountains and rocks. I convinced my friend that Vértes mountains is just as beautiful as Bakony mountains, especially in the autumn. I'm pleased to say he wasn't disappointed either. The planned distance was relatively short, barely 7 km and there were only a few deviations from the designated road to shorten some large bends. We started our tour in Csákberény, a small village on the southern foot of Vértes. The first stop was the Hunting Museum of Csákberény, where we didn't go in, only visited its garden.
Wild grapes glow in red
The wooden statue of St. Hubertus, patron saint of hunters, mathematicians, opticians, and metalworkers
Chiseled bronze water taps in the garden
A nature trail starts at the museum and arrives there, where boards show the history of the place, its flora and fauna. The first part of the route we went through a pine forest. It is known that pine is a tree that was artificially planted here to avoid further erosion. In the past, the southern slopes of the Vértes were bare, with sparse vegetation. Human activities, including mine cultivation, have ruined it, and people has been trying to help nature heal its landscapes.. However, pines do not withstand climate and pests.
The glade in the picture was once covered by pine trees, and today we can see fallen trunks.
Patches of bare hillsides with rocks
Drought-tolerant plants live on the rocks.
This dangerously steep path leads to a cave. I didn't dare to go down.
Approaching Csókakő, huge rocks oppose the roots of old trees.
The picture doesn't show how steep the stairs to the castle of Csókakő are.
Autumn colors near the castle
Last time I look back at where we came up. I would never go down here again.
Now we only have to cross between two rocks and we are in the castle.
I haven't been to the castle for 20 years. It was very ruined and difficult to walk at that time. Recently has been renovated and is visited by many tourists. Entrance is free.
The castle was full of tourists, it was impossible to take a snapshot of it inside. I rather photographed the red limestones we walked on.
Beautiful view to Csókakő village and Eastern Bakony mountains.
Let's see now some interesting fact, related to Hungarian history
Gothic castle of Csókakő was built after the Tartar invasion, at the end of the 13th century, in a strategically important place. For a time it was under the jurisdiction of the Csák family, and then became a royal territory (Charles Robert, 1288 – 16 July 1342).
Later the castle became the property of the Rozgonians. In the 14th century the castle was expanded approximately three times, and the lower castle was built around the upper castle. After the family died out, the castle changed owners several times. There was a serious guard ring around the castle, which withstood all external forces with ease. The three sides of the castle are protected by steep rock walls, which are also delimited by artificial rock formations. In the 16th century, however, it lost its defensive significance because the fortress was already considered small against the enormous power of the Turkish invaders.
During the Turkish occupation it played a role as an advanced observatory of Székesfehérvár. It was liberated in the autumn of 1687, but was no longer of military importance.. Its destruction, unlike many of Hungarian castles, was not related to the Habsburg castle-breaking fever. It was just abandoned and decayed for centuries.
The hero of Csókakő
Saint Lawrence (Lőrinc) of Brindisi was born in 1559, became a Capuchin and studied at the University of Padua. He was a born genius who speaks Latin, Greek, Hebrew, Chaldean, German, Czech, French and Spanish in addition to his native Italian. As a famous public speaker, he traveled all over Europe on foot. Wherever he turned, people marched out to receive him, and covered the path with flowers and leafy branches. His sermons were kept in ten folio volumes. His explanations of the scriptures fascinate scientists of all time with their professionalism. Its simple, pathos-free style still looks extremely modern.
Lőrinc was 42 when he preached in Hungary. As a camp priest, he participated in the fight against the Turks. In September 1601 they managed to recapture Székesfehérvár. The 28,000-strong Christian army (a minority of Hungarians) then camped at Csókakő Castle near Székesfehérvár. On October 15, a Turkish army of 80,000 surrounded the Christians. Then Father Lawrence, on a horse-back, with a cross in his hands, exhorted the soldiers, disregarding the balls whistling around him. He acted as a hero: as if John Capistran had risen from his dead.
Bust of Lawrence of Brindisi
Near the castle there is a small cave which is protected. It has a low ceiling and should therefore be used with caution with a bowed head. It is 15 meters long, inhabited by bats.
