Dear Friends I wanted to share some images from my surfing archive.
I am a surf filmmaker/director/photographer/surfer/ocean lover.
These surfing images are from Santa Barbara, California.
The time of the year is upon us when the swells emerge from a state of summer slumber.
Surfers hold vigil as they shed their summertime skin and mutate into seal like creatures.
The feeling of surfing is arduous to describe.
When the waves are magnificent, a little man(or woman) requires action.
A tube ride is the single most appreciable moment
Inside a vat of liquid,
We breath in like-mindedness the universe.
The constructs of hour, minute and seconds disappear,
We are in reunion with our ocean mother,
our revisitation to the womb is complete.
Surfers joyride the blood of the earth, the sun and the moon.
The verve of each wave is forged thousands of miles away.
But it comes right to us,
a divine decree
we can't turn back on.
Each wave is different, like a fingerprint or a snowflake,
And must be enjoyed and praised.
We thank you for your gifts from the sea.
We acknowledge the creatures
and all the intelligence of a grand design.
be grateful, be blessed, be surfing.......