The southwestern tip of Vancouver Island is home to some of the most treacherous waters you can find in the Pacific Northwest. For century’s ships have ran aground on the rocks and reefs in this area. The weather plays havoc with navigation and even with the iconic lighthouse at Race Rocks even today ships still hit the hidden hazards in the area.
(image courtesy of BC archives)
The islets that make up Race Rocks and the other near by islands can be shrouded in fog for up to 45 days a year. In the past, only the bell for a keeper to sound and the beacon of light a top the station was the only thing preventing ships on the rocks. Today the lighthouse is automated and ships are much more technologically advanced but those things don’t diminish the dangers of the rocks and water.
Race Rocks was for many years the final resting place of the ships of unsuspecting crews drawn to the reefs by the relentless tides. Unfortunately, because of the strong currents, most shipwreck evidence has been swept off the rocks into water too deep for regular diving.
One ship that is still dive able is the Barnard Castle. The Barnard Castle was an iron steam screw collier built in 1878 in England, 79 meters (260 ft.) long, and able to carry 2500 tons of cargo. The ship carried grain and cattle between Liverpool and New York, and reputedly coal from England to the Near East. In 1879 she ferried troops and supplies for Chile in the war against Peru. She came to British Columbia in 1881 when R. Dunsmuir & Sons chartered her to run coal from Nanaimo to San Francisco.
They bought her outright in October 1886. Unfortunately on November 2, 1886 the steamer hit Rosedale Reef located just off Race Rocks. After the collision she managed to limp to Bentinck Island, just north of Race and sank in Pilot Bay.
Many salvage attempts were made to raise the wreck, but unfortunately all failed.
In 1992 the Underwater Archaeological Society of British Columbia (UASBC) completed an underwater interpretive trail around the wreck placing eight plaques at various points of interest along the wreck. Each of these plaques describes a particular artifact along with a map showing your current location.
The wreck is marked with a buoy on the surface and is well worth the dive. Even though it has been down for more than 120 years, it is quite impressive and allows for an abundance of photographic opportunities. The boilers, stern, and bow sections are still intact as well as numerous other artifacts in the area. The bottom depth is quite shallow maxing out at 12 meters (40 ft.)
One very unique thing to see is all of the coal strewn on the sea floor. Coal is very light and large pieces can be picked up quite easily. Additionally due to how light the coal is growing bull kelp attaches itself to the coal and suspends it in the water column. It makes for a very surreal experience underwater while diving the wreck.
Most shipwrecks in the waters of British Columbia don’t last all that long compared to wrecks in other parts of the world due to the savage weather and water conditions that can batter them over time.
If you get a chance to check out this wreck, or any others, its well worth your time.
Thanks for reading
Scott
For more reading and images - http://www.scottstevensonphotography.ca/journal/