I went surfing with my friend Wyatt about a week ago. We went to one of the few lefts in the area because Wyatt is goofy footed and he wanted to surf some waves going frontside. He was riding his 7'4" Anderson Bojorquez.
I've been exploring longer shutter speeds to create blur from the speed that is involved with surfing. The board he's riding is super fast too, I thought these photos captured some of this boards speed on a bottom turn.
This board wants to be in the pocket of the wave. It holds it line very well because on the bottom of the board. It's rolled all through the middle of the board pretty far back with very foiled rails, then flattens out with a sharp edge on the rail to help with hold. This helps the board flow through the water and hold its speed.
